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Battery I.D. Needed


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I just received these batteries: Brylite Supreme Batteries (2) 6 volt | eBay from an eBay seller who acquired them with an MG basket case. We have no idea how old nor original usage. They are dry NOS and if possible I'd like to use them in my 1917 Maxwell which uses 2 6 volt batteries.

These have no numbers nor marking other than the Brylite sticker. Since I think they were originally made for MG's would anyone know how to get the specifications such as cold cranking amps and such?

Howard Dennis

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These haven't been sold for YEARS! Brylite was a U.K. brand made by Exide. These (Group 17HF sold in pairs) were primarily made for MGBs and Jaguar XKs. If the guy who sold these had put "Jaguar XK120/140/150", "MGB" and "17HF" in the eBay listing title you likely would have had to pay 10 times as much as you paid for these. This was one great buy.

The specifications of the current modern Group 26R replacement battery can vary from 450 to 650 cca. Antique Auto Batteries sells repro 17HF batteries with 300 cca. I don't know the original specs, but I would imagine that these 2 are near or even below the lower figure, given their age and origin. You might try contacting Birmingham Battery Supply ( http://www.locatrade.com/uk/Birmingham/Battery-Suppliers/Brylite-Batteries ) for specifications if you really need them.

If I had these, however, I think I might try to re-sell them on eBay to an MG or Jaguar guy. 17HF batteries are almost impossible to find (outside of the pricey and dodgey repro batteries), and the 26R replacement battery usually requires a change of battery cables in these cars (MGBs at least, I don't know about the Jags). I believe they're going to be well worth more to them than a good new 6 volt from Optima cost.

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Dave, Thanks for taking the time to answer my post. I may take your advice as I hate to use up something that might help out a show car as mine will just be used for my enjoyment. Any idea what I should expect to get? I'll at least need enough to buy 2 6 volts as my car is set up to start on 12v and run and charge as 2 6 volts.

Howard Dennis

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  • 3 years later...

post-78299-0-21707400-1438364691_thumb.jpost-78299-0-45522900-1438364705_thumb.jpost-78299-0-75675700-1438364719_thumb.jJust thought I'd revisit this thread as my experience might help someone make a different decision and avoid all the trouble I've had. This "Great Buy" of mine has bit me in the a$$ for the last time!  I let these batteries sit dry till late last year and when I was ready to start the car a local battery shop wet them and slowly brought them back to life. I was tickled to death to learn they came back fine and passed all tests. I installed them with brand new custom made period correct cloth covered cables and the car started, ran and charged as new. I then went on a 2 week vacation and came back to find the new terminals and cables corroded and looking like the car had sat for 50 years! I've re-cleaned and sealed the top of these FOUR times in the last 6 months and now I've decided to toss everything and replace with new EXPENSIVE batteries and cables. Had I done this in the first place,  I probably would have had none of this additional expense and trouble!

 

A battery company technician told me that since the batteries were so old the original tar had dried out and shrunk away from the terminals letting the acid and gases escape and corrode everything.

I wish I had known that last year!

 

Howard Dennis

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What?? Assuming your battery tech's advice is correct, if that's the only problem, why not get some of that thick asphalt/whatever roof/chimney connection leak sealer (or asphalt driveway repair??), carefully pack arouind terminals where they come out of case, plunk on a thin felt "anti-corrosion" washer (to cover your amateurish work) and Voila!!---all sealed up???

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What?? Assuming your battery tech's advice is correct, if that's the only problem, why not get some of that thick asphalt/whatever roof/chimney connection leak sealer (or asphalt driveway repair??), carefully pack arouind terminals where they come out of case, plunk on a thin felt "anti-corrosion" washer (to cover your amateurish work) and Voila!!---all sealed up???

Been there, Done That! Thus " I've re-cleaned and sealed the top of these FOUR times in the last 6 months".

 

First I used asphalt based caulking from Lowes Failed

Second, Third And Fourth time was that stuff you see on TV "Flex Seal" It has at least 8 coats of that and it lasted the longest, Till it Failed! AND after each top seal I sprayed the cleaned terminals with HEAVY coats of battery terminal corrosion sealer AND new anti-corrosion felt washers and each time they all failed.

 

The only thing left is to completely dig out the original tar which was put in hot so I doubt it would come out without heat and replace it with hot tar and at this point I've expended enough time and money and am just going to let these go as cores for modern batteries.

 

Howard Dennis

Edited by hddennis (see edit history)
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Perhaps . . . if you used "heat" to heat the top of the batteries and hopefully re-flow the existing "tar-top"?  Might need some solvent to help with that re-flow action, too?

 

There will always be "gas" coming from the plate area, though the vented caps where the acid is installed and the "water" is checked.  Might there be something in the car that's "on" when everything is off?  As an electric clock, but I would not think that would cause enough activity to make the batteries gas that much.

 

In the middle 1970s, I was at college when the Chrysler battery in the '66 Chrysler I was driving failed inside of the three year warranty period.  I had to have a battery on that weekend (local dealer closed, where I was at school), so I got a battery from the Gulf station across from campus.  I kept the failed Chrysler battery.  The original dealer warrantied it next time I went home, but we left it dry until it was needed.  It stayed inside of the house for a few years.  When it came time to use it, we acidized it and the NOS battery worked as expected (for several years).

 

I know the desire of using an NOS battery in an older vehicle, especially if they are correct for the vehicle.  I also know how much the repro-correct batteries cost, vs normal replacement batteries.

 

I've become aware that Interstate batteries supplies "black" batteries for some of the import brand vehicles (to the car dealers, who then attach their appropriate labels, as I understand it).  Not sure if they might do "tractor" batteries in black, too?  I say "tractor" as there are many tractors still around which are 6 volt systems.  I think that many of those tractors used battery sizes similar to what cars used in those earlier times.  Considering the meteoric rise in antique tractor restorations, you might check that supply chain to see what they're using.

 

Although most probably are out of business, there used to be some "battery rebuilders" who could replace the guts of batteries, or put guts in a battery case from the repro industry (in prior times).  Might even be some "low-line" batteries from the local auto supplies that might cosmetically look like what you might desire, with similar specs, but shorter warranty periods (probably not that much shorter than the original batteries might have had, back then).

 

Just some thoughts . . .

NTX5467

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post-78299-0-07494400-1438537514_thumb.jThanks, I'm afraid that after all the sealers I've tried the tops would be so contaminated it would be just another doomed attempt. These are hard batteries to find and Interstate is one of the only ones to still list them. If their online picture is of their current product I've gotten lucky as they still look like the original style batteries. I'm currently waiting for a reply from my local Interstate distributor as to availability.

Howard Dennis

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  • 3 weeks later...

Ok, so I have a customer with a 52 Jag, It has two 6volt batteries wired in series. He has never been happy with the life he has gotten out of the batteries and would like to improve things . He no longer cares about the original appearance, so I suggested we install two 12 volt batteries in parallel. The trouble is the battery boxes are 7 1/2 " square, and I'm having some trouble finding 12 volt batteries that will fit in the box. I can't be the first guy to be doing this, any thoughts ?

Thanks, Chris

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