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Engine rebuild follow up


MidTNDawg
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"Lots & lots of money"

Yeah, I've got that part figured, just can't do much about it. LOL!<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

Funny...I was going to say a gun and a mask for that Bank job your going to have to do.

Sounds like your doing it yourself?

Are you farming out the machine work and doing the rest?

Kinda, sorta. A life-long friend will do most everything but I will be there and will be working. He has his own machine shop and has a tremendous store of knowledge.

Any recommendations as to where to look for parts? Or is there just a single source?

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Bob, I definitely need rings, but I can't get them ahead of time as I will not know specifics until after tear-down and taking all the measurements. Based on compression readings I will need at least one valve, but I don't know one, two, or . . ?

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I have liked the '54 Buicks since they were introduced!

There's just something about them eh?

Sounds like a nice project, to have a good friend to help coupled with the resources he has should make this a really fun project!

I was going to do mine but in the end I lost confidence in my abilities and farmed the whole thing out. It cost crazy money but it was done by someone who knew what he was doing. This left me with the confidence that I will have a trouble free engine but took away a chance to complete a long time desire to rebuild an engine myself.

Please keep us posted on your rebuild and better yet please post progress pics!

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Myers Early Dodge and Romar has some stuff for the DA engines and Romar also does machine shop service like rebabbitting. It's great you have a friend to help! I had a knowledgeable neighbor when I first did my car in the 70's, but don't know anyone local now to help me on my rework of the car....well, except for all the answers I've gotten here! Wish I was there to look over you're shoulders and learn some new stuff! Good luck with it!

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Bob, Myers doesn't show much ehgine stuff on-line, and Romars has not responded to several e-mails nor has backyardmechanic to PMs on this board. I suppose I will call them, but really like info in writing so there is less liklihood of me misinterpreting.

And yes, my friend is amazing with both his knowledge and his ability to do the job. I am very fortunate.

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Romars and backyard mechanic are the same person and this is very bright..........but really like info in writing so there is less liklihood of me misinterpreting.

Be very carefull with who you are dealing with and make sure every thing is crystal clear before diving into anything.

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Jason, thanks. I know Romars and BYM are the same. Just seems strange he has kind of disappeared. Jason, any chance of NAPA or similar places having any of the parts? I confess I am really ready to get started, but I have to wait on my friend. Oh, another question for you. Do you ever go over to the Turkey Run at Thanksgiving?

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I go over to Turkey run usually every year.

I wouldnt try and source napa too much for parts as they really have no idea whats what when it comes to old stuff unless you happen across someone that has been ay it longer than 6 weeks and they are getting tougher to come by. In my opinion it might cause you more headaches than its worth.

I would stick with Egge if they can help as these flateheads are primarily their deal.

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Jason, my NAPA man has been at it for years. You may recall he found some other parts for me. But sounds like Egge may be the place. Thanks to all who have mentioned them. I have gone to their web site. I will make contact soon. One thing I would like is assurance the parts will ship quickly when ordered.

Jason, my plans are to attend the Turkey Run on Friday with a friend who lives in Mims. Maybe we can get together.

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It sure was a launch pad year for Buick:

Calendar-year production was 531,463. This represented a 9.6-percent market share and gave Buick third place in the industry. Model-year production was 444,609 units. During 1954, Buick became the first automaker to build 500,000 hardtops. The 2 millionth Dynaflow was built on May 3.

1954 Buick Highway - 1954 Buick Production Figures

Edited by stealthbob (see edit history)
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While MY 1st car was (still is) a 32 DL6, our 1st car after we were married was a 1951 Buick Special in beautiful shape. That straight 8 was a smoooooooooth running engine...capable of 115 mph (authenticated by youthful rash behavior at 2 AM on a lonely upstate NY highway the night before Navy induction!).

Starting her in Syracuse, NY winters at 26 below required a 100W light bulb left overnight next to the loooong 6V battery plus an electric dipstick.

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I have never gone on a Fri. because I am usually working and my wife is also working normally, we usually go on Sat but I guess Fri is the day to go to get the deals. I have never found any parts that I can think of in Daytona but it is still fun to look. I dont know where mims is, maybe this year I can make it on a Fri.

Lets get a little closer and see if we can set something up, thanks for the invite

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Maybe I have been going at things kind of backwards all of my life.

But I usually tear an engine down before I know what I will need.

How far will I have to bore, or turn the crank ect.

On later engines I will occasionalyy buy a rebuild kit (they come in various forms) but it always seems that there is SOMETHING else required.

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Maybe I have been going at things kind of backwards all of my life.

But I usually tear an engine down before I know what I will need.

How far will I have to bore, or turn the crank ect.

On later engines I will occasionalyy buy a rebuild kit (they come in various forms) but it always seems that there is SOMETHING else required.

Jack M., obviously you do not have things backward. Read all my posts and you will note I said I have to take measurements. However, I know I will need a set of gaskets. I have the gaskets. My question is, "Do I need anything else that can be id'd now" For example is there a known weakness in the oil pump, and I should plan on that. I have no idea if this may be. I am trying to tap into the vast knowledge base on this forum. I have had a few suggestions I found to be good. All are appreciated. I still like to plan ahead to whatever extent possible.

Edited by MidTNDawg (see edit history)
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Oil pans are known for being full of holes once you remove the sludge so you may find that, same as water jacket plate and those are usually easy enough to repair as well, sometimes you may run into difficulty with the heat deelio in the manifold coming apart when you try and take apart to clean and lubricate, dist. can be a bear to remove so be very carefull with these as they are pot metal and prone to breaking. best to let soak for a few days adding penetrating oil every few hours, timing chains are usually stretched so I suppose it would be a good idea to try and source one now and change it regardless while you have it apart, the rocker shaft is usualy so worn that it is about usless so you may want to source that as well along with new pushrods and arms.

Pilot bushing is a good idea to source before you take her apart and I persoanlly would thow in at least a new throwout bearing as they are cheap enough, I would go with a sealed bearing myself.

Cant think of anything else but this is prob. enough to keep you busy, I like Jack maybe was not quite clear on what sort of info you were looking for but that is clear now.

All of the above things and more are going to have to be considered and more than likely replaced and I would also suggest trying to buy all your parts in one place if you can, I would not suggest buying a few parts parts from someone and then buying a few more parts from someone else.

This will more than likely prove to be a mistake.

Edited by 1930 (see edit history)
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Bob made a great point in part 1 and that being head bolts, these will not come with any rebuild kit that I know of and should be replaced.

Kit Number: DO208M28-29

Bore Size: 3.375

# of Cylinders: 6

Part # Name QTY. Price Oversize

E220-6 PISTON SET 1 $503.47 .000 .020 .030 .040 .060 .0625 .080 .090

SRH662 RING SET 1 $99.31 .000

PB600 PIN BUSHING 6 $48.00

S426 EXHAUST VALVE 6 $159.00

V427 INTAKE VALVE 6 $150.00

VS181 VALVE SPRING 12 $106.68

G102 VALVE GUIDE 12 $180.00

TC411 TIMING CHAIN 1 $224.86

RS693 GASKET SET 1 *CALL

Looks like the kit comes with timing chain so that is a plus, looks like they can reman. your rocker shaft and arms, looks like they can provide some pushrods call for application, I can help I think with a good pilot bushing #, I can help with thowout bearing info when need be,

Looks like you are in pretty good shape !

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....the rocker shaft is usualy so worn that it is about usless so you may want to source that as well along with new pushrods and arms.

Jason, not to nit-pick, but you might be confusing the 1929 Dodge DA engine with an valve-in-head type engine. The DA's L-head style engine has no rocker shaft or push rods or rocker arms. The valves are in the block and are driven directly from the cam thru the lifters (tappets). Here are the engine X-section diagrams from the 1929 DA manual.

Now Doug, if you dropped in a small-block Chevy engine when I wasn't looking, you can disregard all of the above.

Joe

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29 was the first year for the overhead valve Chevrolet inline 6.

I traded the Chevy for a fire truck some time ago, glad to have done it, too much wood and its questionable if I will ever have the money to restore the Dodge properly let alone that Chevrolet.

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Hi Joe, how are you doing? Re: Chevy engines - I used to like to ask, "what the 1st year was when Chevrolet had a V8?" Most would loudly and proudly declare, "1955". It blew their minds when I would respond, "Nope, 1917." Anyway thanks for chiming in.

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  • 3 weeks later...
Oil pans are known for being full of holes once you remove the sludge so you may find that, same as water jacket plate and those are usually easy enough to repair as well, sometimes you may run into difficulty with the heat deelio in the manifold coming apart when you try and take apart to clean and lubricate, dist. can be a bear to remove so be very carefull with these as they are pot metal and prone to breaking. best to let soak for a few days adding penetrating oil every few hours, timing chains are usually stretched so I suppose it would be a good idea to try and source one now and change it regardless while you have it apart, the rocker shaft is usualy so worn that it is about usless so you may want to source that as well along with new pushrods and arms.

Pilot bushing is a good idea to source before you take her apart and I persoanlly would thow in at least a new throwout bearing as they are cheap enough, I would go with a sealed bearing myself.

Cant think of anything else but this is prob. enough to keep you busy, I like Jack maybe was not quite clear on what sort of info you were looking for but that is clear now.

All of the above things and more are going to have to be considered and more than likely replaced and I would also suggest trying to buy all your parts in one place if you can, I would not suggest buying a few parts parts from someone and then buying a few more parts from someone else.

This will more than likely prove to be a mistake.

Jason, I will be using Egge Machine for parts. Any suggestions / information for source for a sealed throw-out bearing or pilot bushing?

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I can find a part # if needed prob. ( it will just take time at this point ) but I took my old bearing to a bearing shop and they matched it up easily. I had to ever slightly grind a flat spot in the dowel that it rides up and down on for clearance but again it was a matter of seconds with a hand held grinder.

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