Engine Miss - Ignition Related?

[Steve_Mack_CT]

Looking to confirm this as ignition and not fuel delivery. Twighlight cruise the other night started out fine, but after about a half hour, and a short stop at the grocery store I encountered some trouble:

1) a little bit of a hard start (as summer here goes, it was a cool night and carb was cool enough to touch so I am not thinking any gas delivery issues there.)

2) get underway again and everything is fine for 5 - 10 minutes. Took a moderate hill and the engine began cutting out, could not tell if it was a miss or a fuel starvation condition.

3) backfire through exhaust not carb.

4) engine will idle ok, and rev ok at idle w/some hesiation or miss, not too noticeable though.

5) under load, engine misses badly. Got car home, and it smelled like unburned gas by the car for some time.

So do points ever go from fine to a bad enough condition to cause this? Or other ignition components perhaps? Rebuilt carb and fuel pump, and electric back up pump. Initially thought fuel but with those systems funtioning and a cursury check of the glass bowl not indicating any trouble assuming ignition is where to go, right?

Thanks

[keiser31]

Points can go at the drop of a hat. I once went for a ride in a buddy's '66 Plymouth Belvedere and this same thing happened. The car was cold, we started out running great and went about three blocks when he decided to goose it a little. The car started missing and backfiring through the exhaust. We checked it out and half of the points on one contact had transferred to the other contact!

[Steve_Mack_CT]

Thanks Keiser. I am probably way overthinking a simple problem but one thing I noticed was my relatively new fanbelt squealing a bit, so I wonder if a loose belt kep generator from doing it's thing, stressing an older set of points & condensor? One thing does lead to another on these old cars. Well, replacing all ignition parts this weekend...

Thanks,

[Guest cben09]

Hi,,,Transfer of metal on points is usually caused by a bad condenser,,

When coils get warm,,old tired ones,,failure occurs after running a while,,,let it cool a while,,and alls fine,for a while,,,Repeat above chorus line,,,

File the points,,new condenser,,new coil for test or otherwise,,test dr close to home [toolbox] Replace the points when they are available,,Good luck,,Ben

[rhb1999]

File the points

Just curious, does anyone still make a ignition points file? Eastwood?

[keiser31]

Just curious, does anyone still make a ignition points file? Eastwood?

Yes. You can always use an emery board (if your wife will give you one). Just be sure that after you file them that you clean them and get all of the residue off of the point contacts.

[rhb1999]

Yes. You can always use an emery board (if your wife will give you one). Just be sure that after you file them that you clean them and get all of the residue off of the point contacts.

Your right! I forgot the emery board will work just as well. Thanks.

[Steve_Mack_CT]

Yes, I figure on replacing the coil also as a precaution - just not sure why so expensive from Kanter or Merritt, trying to figure that one out now as well...

[rhb1999]

I wondered whether Napa would have parts when it comes to cars like yours, Recently I was curious so I went on Napa Online .com and typed in carburetor for a '55 Chevrolet 1/2 ton truck and they had a one listed for the 235? cu. in. inline six. BUT, also wonder about the quality.

[Matt Harwood]

Coils usually act like a fuel problem, and what you're describing fits the sypmtoms--good at idle and when cool, but stumbly when warm and under load.

My '29 had a slight misfire a few days before leaving for the CLC National, and I managed to find a new condenser and coil at NAPA, both for 6V cars and according to their book, they were for a 1930 Cadillac. Close enough! New parts in and it runs better than ever. With a good condenser, points will last a lot longer, too. The coil was like $20 and the condenser was $8, and my local NAPA had them in stock. For that price, what have you got to lose? You eliminate one potential issue and don't have to worry about it again.

The coil doesn't look as authentic as an original, and the condenser has a red wire, but mine isn't a show car so I'm happy that it's simply running properly again.

Hope this helps. Good luck, I know how frustrating a misfire can be!

[Steve_Mack_CT]

Thanks - yes, I bought Merrit Packard tune up stuff that I am sure is repro and that is ok with me. Don't want a purple coil, but don't necesarilly need a $130 + one either if a NAPA or simillar one will look OK and possibly perform even better.

Any favorites out there for replacement coils? Assuming they are more or less universal if voltage is right but I could be wrong...

[Steve_Mack_CT]

Issue was condensor, car performing well under load fully hot but still planning to replace the coil as a preventive measure. After thinking on it and looking under the hood for the first time in a week on Saturday, I see the reason for the $$$ on original - the configuration is different than a universal repalcement. I want to keep the armoured cable from dash to coil, while not a show car I am looking to keep as correct as possible.

I understand cable kind of crimps to back of stock coil, any tricks I should be aware of in taking that off and replacing?

Thanks