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29 DA


Dennis A

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Recently purchased a 29 Dodge DA. Am getting acquainted at this point. I did find a partial manual on this site, but would like to find a parts list, troubleshooting, etc.

The car is mostly original, but some short cuts were taken - electric fuel pump, substitute ignition. I would like to get back to original. Do I have a shot at this? Or, are parts not available, like they are for old model A's? Haven't found much via the normal searches.

Also, it is missing the running boards. Does anyone have the drawings or specs?

thanks,

Dennis

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Hi Dennis and welcome, nice car. Parts are not nearly as readily available as they are for Model A but with patience they can be found.

As far as do you have a shot at this than that all depends on your determination, if you are determined to see it going back to more original that it can be one.

Reproduction owners manual are available and a reproduction parts list is avail also either thru Myers early Dodge parts or Romars. Inside owners manual you will find some troubleshooting.

There were never any specific service manuals made for these cars as it was a time that Dodge was going thru some pretty drastic changes but you can find generalized serice procedures in many manuals easy enough or better yet just ask here and we can help.

Reproduction running boards are avail last time I checked with Romars or I can provide whatever specs you could desire.

Do you have any more pictures of the car, if so my e-mail is jhason2@yahoo.com

If yo woud like to get the absalute correct owners manual we would need your serial # to guide you, there were three versions that I am aware of but they are all identical as far as I can tell except the front covers will designate serial number variables.

Build cards are avail in many cases thrue Chrysler Historical.

If you post your numbers we can tell you alot more about the car

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Thanks for all the replies. Appears I have a good knowledge base to tap into.

The serial is DA 113547.

I did get it running tonight. Have a fuel pump leak so it was short lived, but sounded good.

I'll look at some of the suggested websites tomorrow.

Have some family things going on the next few days, but will try to take some pics.

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The carb on the 29 is a Carter BB-1. Is this original?

The only fuel pump on it is an electric ACDelco EP-11. It leaks so am replacing with the newer version EP11. It is rated at 5-8 psi. Is a regulator required? There wasn't one on the original setup.

At this point I want to get the car running. I'll then look at the possibility of returning to original. Are parts like this available anywhere?

Took some pics, but left the camera at home. Will try to remember for next time.

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Original is Stromberg U-2 and reproductions can be had at Welcome regulator may not be required if the carb on it now did not need one before but I am surprised to hear that as the carb requires very little fuel pressure.

You are better of going back to the original Kingston fuel canister and you can find on one e-bay once in a blue moon or there are people that rebuild tanks that maybe have one for sale.

Parts are avail as I said before but you have to be willing to search for them and be patient.

You have already been pointed in the right direction for all the parts you have mentioned so not sure what other parts you are reffering to

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Dennis A, as a "newbie" myself, let me assure you that you have come to the best place. And you will not believe the knowledge possessed by those who have already responded to you. Sort of echoing Jason (1930) with determination and patience you can succeed. Simply put, a great site with great people if you like Dodge Brothers products.

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I finally figured out how to shrink the photos so they met the max size limits. Must be an easier way.

Had the car running today. Around the block (country block, so a couple of miles) Do have a small gas tank leak so this is probably the beginning of a "to do" list.

Reason for my earlier questions - I really have no clue what is "original" on this car. Was hoping there is a standard parts or component list for the car. I know now that the Carter carb is not original. Thanks! Is there a place to find a list of standard components? I have a pdf of the September 1929 Dodge Bros Instruction Book, but it only goes to page 63.

The fenders have zero rust. Can anyone tell me if these are the correct ones for the DA? Remainder of the body is in good condition - some putty.

Does anyone have a hub cap? Am missing one. Also, running boards, or dimensions, as I am sure I can duplicate.

Are there supposed to be rear tail lights? Also, does the right rear bumper have the correct components? Am missing some left rear items. Anyone have photos of a 29 DA with the "right stuff". Would be nice to see a variety of views of the outside.

Thanks for all the help so far.

Dennis

29 DA Side & Rear.pdf

29 DA Front & Hub.pdf

29 DA Engine Left & Dashboard Right.pdf

29 DA Engine Compartment Right.pdf

29 DA Dashboard & Steering column.pdf

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With pictures we are able to tell you what is correct or original and what is not, there is a parts list for the car and more than one version and it does have some pictures of original components, the owners manual is also a good source for pictures as I am sure you have figured out.

There were no books ever issued like what you are looking for, the best way to learn what is correct and original for the car is to collect info here with specific questions, I dont have alot of time to look over the pict. just now as it is getting late but for instance I can tell you that the fenders are original, the coil is not as an example, you are missing the engine dust shields and some cables.

The Arvin heater was an aftermarket item which in my opinion should stay with the car, looks like at quick glance that you have the original generator and starter and you are very lucky to have these, incorrect horn, correct brake canister, again very lucky to have that if it does not leak, looks like depress beam lenses and lights, cowl lights look to be correct, correct front bumper and rad. cap.

There were two different center caps avail for your DA, I will have to look at your serial # and see which you are supposed to have and then you can tell me which you do have. Center caps can be found on e-bay, I have quite a few spares myself.

Yes the medallion on the right rear looks to be correct although I have not blown up the pict and your left is supposed to have the same. They are difficult to find, I cast some of these a while back, right now my casting is in Australia on loan to a fellow D.B but when it returns we can work something out if you like.

One talight drivers side was original, there was an assy on e-bay recently may still be on there, they can get very pricey, it was listed under 29 Plymouth if memory serves me, there were a couple of different buckets brackets avail and again I would have to run your #s to see if I can maybe tell you wich was correct for your car.

Anyone here will be happy to post photos, when I started my collection e-bay was my main source of pictures, I set aside a disk and just started collecting pictures and comparing cars to cars and collecting any literature I could get my hands on and asked alot of questons. Nothing to it. Hope this helps and keep asking questions.

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Thanks to both of you for the replies. Nice to get the feedback.

Regarding the parts list for the car - How do I get my hands on one? Same for a manual. Have done some searching, but maybe looking in the wrong places.

I am interested in the center caps and rear bumper hardware that you mentioned.

As noted in my last email I have a small leak in the gas tank. I've read the instructions for repair and liner do-it-yourself kits. Looks like, if one follows the process it, I can do. What do you think? Better to find a good repair shop? A one time fix so maybe better to spend the extra???

One final question: For specific questions like above is it better to keep them in this thread, or should a new one be started with a new title?

Dennis

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Myers early Dodge parts or Romars sells both owners manuals and parts manual.

I dont send anything out to be repaired by anyone as I have found that it is rarely done to my expectations so I would suggest repairing the tank yourself if you have the least bit of confidence you would do a good job. If you are just not that guy than send it out and let the so called experts handle it.

Gas tank sealer is avail online and its the same stuff ( as far as I know ) that any shop is going to use, I may ask someone to boil out the tank if it is really bad but chances are that I would get a gallon of muratic acid and go to town on it myself with that and some chains you can knock it all loose.

Personally I dont care if you just keep this thread open but other will disagree with the idea that it is difficult to find a bit of info later on that they might need unless all the topics are seperate so its your decision.

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Have the tank removed. Will inspect closer tomorrow.

Was thinking of doing myself like you suggest. Key seems to be to make sure it is first thoroughly cleaned.

Found the information on the Myers site. For some reason I didn't have the site saved.

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Getting the tank cleaned is the key, obviousely the gas tank cleaner is not going to seal big holes but little holes will not be a problem, within this past month I did the tank in my truck, it had started leaking along the bottom, it sits upright in the back of the cab behind the rear seat and its supposed to sit on rubber pads but they had prob deteriated long ago.

I took everything out of the tank looked down inside with a flashlight didnt see too much and just let it dry/evaporate in the sun a few days.

I took my quart can and poured it down in there and lifted at one end and then dropped it at the other lifted at same end dropped it at the other just to work the sealer back and forth along that bottom seam.

The sealer does not go far because it is thick, knowing the size of your DA tank I would suggest ordering two quart cans because it says on can to make sure entire inside of tank is coated, I dont know how important this really is. I didnt have bearly enough to coat the entire inside of the big tank that was in my truck so I pretty much only coated the bottom side of my tank but so far so good and no leaks.

The tank in my truck would have required prob every bit of 3-4 quarts considering it is suggested ( and prob. important so I followed this one ) to coat the inside twice waiting a few days between coats.

Years ago I took a tank to someone to be cleaned and sealed, cant recall what it was out of but it was similar in size to the DA Dodge tank, they did not coat the entire inside, I noticed this after inspecting the inside with a flashlight and a mirror, evidently even to them coating the entire inside was not that important but I brought it back to them to re-do as it was rusty inside of there and I wanted something coating the entire inside.

Once you get the tank of let me know what you see, maybe we can walk you thru it better

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I decided to take my tank to a local welding shop for the repairs and sealing. I had used him before and the results were good. I went through the process with him and he is going to do it the same way I would, plus he will weld if/where necessary. He has a good home-made light/mirror inspection gadget that will allow me to inspect before throwing any cash his way. Pre-inspection showed the tank to be in relatively good shape except for the two pin holes.

When I added up the supply cost, plus factored in my time, it made sense to let the expert do it. I asked for an 82 year warranty, but I don't think he will oblige.

Based on what I read, I would have probably used the POR-15 product. I found very good instructions for it, but it is a lengthy step by step process if done right.

The welding shop uses Red Kote. It seems comparable to the POR. I didn't ask what he uses for the prep cleaning. It will take about a week to complete, mostly due to the drying time required between some of the steps.

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Jason, sorry for the bad spelling. It s/b Kreem tank sealer. Kreem is the brand name and I used it extensively back in the 60's and 70's on motorcycle as well as car tanks. Just wondering if it is still around. It was a very good product and I cannot recall anything else nearly so good.

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As long as everyone is talking about gas tanks. I used a sealer from Bill Hirsch back in the 70's on my '29 tank. The car has sat not running for about 25 years. I was thinking I needed to clean the tank of any residual gasoline, but read somewhere that the original sealer from the 70's needs to be removed too. Any thoughts on this? Hope I'm not hijacking your original post, but it seems to be the subject here...BTW, Dennis, you have a very nice car!

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I dont see you would have to remove the sealer laid down back then Bob, was a reason given? If you go to have your tank re-boiled than that sealer is going to be taken off anyway but to go out of the way to remove it I do not understand.

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Jason, if I remember correctly it is the type of gasolines used now vs. the 70's that can make the old sealers problematic....I'd have to find that article again..I think it was in Skinned Knuckles...I just wondered anyone's experience or thoughts on this since the subject of gas tank repairs came up.

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The left front shock absorber (Someone will have to correct me if this isn't the right description) is seized. Is this something the average guy can handle? I do have access to a machine shop.

Manuals - I have a partial "Dodge Bros Six Instruction Book". It goes to page 63. According to the index, the missing sections are Brakes, troubleshooting and operation. Just wondering if the missing pages are worth the $25 at Myers.

Also ran across an "Interchangeable Parts Handbook" on Ebay. "1927 1928 1929 1930 Interchange Parts Erskine, Dodge". Was there a lot of parts crossover between different cars at that time?

Thanks

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If you send me an e-mail I can send you instructions for rebuilding the shock absorbers, they are simple in design and it depends on how worn yours are as to how much work you will have to do.

The manaul is worth buying but maybe I have one scanned that I can send also. I have been told the interchange manual is not worth buying as it did not cover alot of the stuff our cars use

jhason2@yahoo.com

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Great looking DA, Denis! Do you have pics of the upholstery? Wish mine looked as good as yours, especially your wheels.

I noticed your Arvin heater has a switch on the dash. Mine is controlled by a switch on the heater itself.

Were all 30 DAs sent out of the factory without a heat gauge? Mine looks to be after market too?

Thanks for posting the pic.

Rod

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Rod

Your one-up on me regarding the heater. Car only has the switch. Heater has been removed. My understanding is that the heater was an option.

I'll work on the pics. Might be awhile because the money making part of my life has me traveling quite a bit. Best to send me your email & I'll send them direct. Can send better quality then. Is your car original? I am a rookie so it would be nice to see details of an original.

Gas tank - I have it back. Looks OK. I probably would have coated it again,but there are no bare areas. Welded four holes so glad I sent it out. Couple of questions:

1. Should I paint or undercoat the underside of the car before installing the tank?

2. Is some type of cushion to be installed between the straps and the tank?

3. Paint the tank? If yes, is there a standard color?

Lovejoy shock- Is Myers the only place to buy the straps? Kind of pricy.

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quote.....Should I paint or undercoat the underside of the car before installing the tank?

.......Depends on what you are starting out with and what you want for an end result

Is some type of cushion to be installed between the straps and the tank

Yes, a material not unlike the material used on the straps for the lovejoys

Paint the tank? If yes, is there a standard color

Same answer on your first question and black

Myers the only place to buy the straps

No, the straps are typical heavy duty binding strap, there is no special quality that I am aware of so you can buy them anywhere at a more reasonable price

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Guest rbardin

Hi Dennis, I also have the "IMPERIAL PRIMER" and plan to keep it. I think it is an unusual part that was added to my "28" Victory 6 early on and was T'd in to my Kingston vacuum fuel pump. I wonder how many others are out there? The patent date on my Imperial Brass Primer is NOV. 8 1921. Is your primer operational?

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Rod

Your one-up on me regarding the heater. Car only has the switch. Heater has been removed. My understanding is that the heater was an option.

I'll work on the pics. Might be awhile because the money making part of my life has me traveling quite a bit. Best to send me your email & I'll send them direct. Can send better quality then. Is your car original? I am a rookie so it would be nice to see details of an original.

Gas tank - I have it back. Looks OK. I probably would have coated it again,but there are no bare areas. Welded four holes so glad I sent it out. Couple of questions:

1. Should I paint or undercoat the underside of the car before installing the tank?

2. Is some type of cushion to be installed between the straps and the tank?

3. Paint the tank? If yes, is there a standard color?

Lovejoy shock- Is Myers the only place to buy the straps? Kind of pricy.

Dennis,

I believe the Arvin heater was an after market at that time. There is an Arvin heater on ebay like mine.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Arvin-heater-1930s-40s-Chevy-Ford-Cadillac-Dodge-GM-/140602421500?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20bc8eb0fc

I hope this helps.

Rod

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Hi Dennis, I also have the "IMPERIAL PRIMER" and plan to keep it. I think it is an unusual part that was added to my "28" Victory 6 early on and was T'd in to my Kingston vacuum fuel pump. I wonder how many others are out there? The patent date on my Imperial Brass Primer is NOV. 8 1921. Is your primer operational?

I assume this provides a way to refill the "pump" without removing the plug and pouring gasoline into the canister. Is this correct? Sounds like a good option to have.

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