removing brake master unit

[Blue90]

Is it worth buying an untested unit from a pick n pull yard?

How difficult a job is it to remove from firewall?

Thanks

[padgett]

Not bad just have to remove the four nuts in the footwell and disconnect the rod at the pedal. DO NOT try to remove the two big bolts on the outside of the firewall.

[Barney Eaton]

Have you tried the brake test and done the trouble shooting before changing the entire unit?

If you need a rebuilt unit, the only know place rebuilding them is.........

SIA 730 N Minnie ST Tilden IL 62292 800-737-0915 last know price was $575 exchange

[Jim]

Prior still has a web site and they list Teves on the home page.

Car Power Brakes and Truck Power Brakes from Prior Brake Products

[Guest Mc_Reatta]

Believe it's good to move the CPS out of the way to get more room to work down there.

[Jim]

I would not buy a used unit from a junk yard unless you want to take a chance on the amount of work that needs to be done to R&R it.

I have passed up many of them because I do not know the condition.

I have some good used units and before I sell one I do several tests on the car including a panic stop to make sure the pedal is not hard and that the car does not pull to one side or the other. These problems can arise under a panic stop when otherwise everything seems normal.

If you did get one from a junk yard you would have to remove the four #15 nuts under the dash, including removing the panels under the dash and then remove the brake pedal lever. You will need some long extensions with a swivel socket or adapter.

Under the hood you need to remove the pump/motor assembly so you can get to the three lines that attach to the valve body. On the junk yard car you can just cut the lines but on your car you will need some tubing wrenches to get the lines loose from the valve body.

You can then remove the unit from the car.

Then you would do all this to your car removing your unit and then reverse the process installing the junk yard unit on your car and then fill it up and bleed the lines.

You can then do some tests including a driving test and then you will find if the unit is good or no good. If it is good, great, if it is no good you have wasted a lot of time.

Edited August 10, 2011 by Jim (see edit history)

[Jim]

Believe it's good to move the CPS out of the way to get more room to work down there.

On the '88-89s the CPS does have to be moved out of the way and on the '90s they put an SIR module in that location which needs to be moved out of the way.

[Blue90]

Thanks everyone for your replies.

There is nothing wrong with my brakes.

I don't see many Reattae in the pick n pulls here and I was trying to decide what would be good to have as a spare.

I think I'll pass on the brake unit.

[padgett]

I suspect in the future you might regret passing on it.

[Jim]

Go back and get the pump/motor the pressure switch and the accumulator. (one assembly )

Cut the rubber line on the back of the pump, disconnect or using some pliers or a adjustable wrench break the steel line on top and disconnect or cut the wires. Remove the one 7/16 bolt that holds the assembly to the side of the master cylinder.

The accumulator will probably be no good but you will have a spare pump/motor and a spare pressure switch. I sell quite a few of these so having a cheap spare is a good idea.

[Blue90]

Thanks Jim. I will.

S.