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Help: Removing the engine '62 F85 215


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I thought Joe P or kid442 would have seen this by now. They're the sharpest guys here with the 215. You might sniff around up in Buickland too as the same year Special/Skylark would have used the same mounts.

Thanks for the heads up. Still learning the ins and outs of the 215 and Roto-matic. I found a Chiltons Repair manual but I think I am having trouble seperating the fly wheel from the flex plate.

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Keller,

How long has the engine been in the car? Most of the time if the engine has been in the car for 15/20 years the engine mounts are broken. Just so I understand what is "What is the easiest way to remove the two isolation mount bolts near the top of the engine"

There are two ways to remove the engine and trans. You should buy a 1963 Olds repair manual. This is the best item to help you. I always remove the engine and trans from the top. You just have to unbolt all the mounts and take it out. The factory manual tells you to drop it out the bottom. You need to take the bolts out of the sub frame, disconnect the steering box and lift the body above the engine height and roll it out using the front wheels and a jack to support the trans. Take a few photos and post them or give me a call.

Good luck!

Ken

732-870-6964

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Keller,

How long has the engine been in the car? Most of the time if the engine has been in the car for 15/20 years the engine mounts are broken. Just so I understand what is "What is the easiest way to remove the two isolation mount bolts near the top of the engine"

There are two ways to remove the engine and trans. You should buy a 1963 Olds repair manual. This is the best item to help you. I always remove the engine and trans from the top. You just have to unbolt all the mounts and take it out. The factory manual tells you to drop it out the bottom. You need to take the bolts out of the sub frame, disconnect the steering box and lift the body above the engine height and roll it out using the front wheels and a jack to support the trans. Take a few photos and post them or give me a call.

Good luck!

Ken

732-870-6964

The engine was last removed in the early 90s. It appears that there is 8 bolts that connect the bell housing to the engine. The two bolts on top of the housing are difficult to remove. Would it be best to remove the engine and tranny at the same time?

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First, throw away the Chiltons and get a factory service manual. Note that the 1962 manual is a supplement to the 1961 manual, so you actually need both.

Second, I don't know what "isolation" mounts you are talking about exactly, but there are two motor mounts, one on each side of the block, and a trans mount at the tailhousing. In any case, you CANNOT pull the engine and leave the Rotohydramatic trans in the car. The RH5 does not use a conventional torque converter. The fluid coupling is in the middle of the trans and there is an input shaft that looks like the one on a manual trans inside the bellhousing. The flywheel has a spring loaded flexplate bolted to it that looks like the hub of a clutch disk for a manual trans. There is NOT enough clearance to pull the engine forward to disengage this input shaft from the hub - the oil pan sump will hit the crossmember. There is not enough clearance between the trans and the floorpan to raise the engine enough to get clearance, either. You MUST pull the engine and trans as a unit and disassemble the two once out of the car. Been there, done that. Your only alternative is to drop the trans first, which is just extra work, in my opinion.

Despite what the factory service manual says (the manual tells you to drop the crossmember and drivetrain as a unit and lift the car off of it...), you CAN pull the engine and trans together from the top so long as you use an engine tilter on the hoist, as you need to get a very "nose-up" attitude to clear. You might want to check out this thread:

New motor for the 62 - ClassicOldsmobile.com

joe_padavano-albums-1962+f-85+wagon-picture2503-old-motor-out.jpg

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First, throw away the Chiltons and get a factory service manual. Note that the 1962 manual is a supplement to the 1961 manual, so you actually need both.

Second, I don't know what "isolation" mounts you are talking about exactly, but there are two motor mounts, one on each side of the block, and a trans mount at the tailhousing. In any case, you CANNOT pull the engine and leave the Rotohydramatic trans in the car. The RH5 does not use a conventional torque converter. The fluid coupling is in the middle of the trans and there is an input shaft that looks like the one on a manual trans inside the bellhousing. The flywheel has a spring loaded flexplate bolted to it that looks like the hub of a clutch disk for a manual trans. There is NOT enough clearance to pull the engine forward to disengage this input shaft from the hub - the oil pan sump will hit the crossmember. There is not enough clearance between the trans and the floorpan to raise the engine enough to get clearance, either. You MUST pull the engine and trans as a unit and disassemble the two once out of the car. Been there, done that. Your only alternative is to drop the trans first, which is just extra work, in my opinion.

Despite what the factory service manual says (the manual tells you to drop the crossmember and drivetrain as a unit and lift the car off of it...), you CAN pull the engine and trans together from the top so long as you use an engine tilter on the hoist, as you need to get a very "nose-up" attitude to clear. You might want to check out this thread:

New motor for the 62 - ClassicOldsmobile.com

joe_padavano-albums-1962+f-85+wagon-picture2503-old-motor-out.jpg

That is good info. No wonder I am having so much trouble. Thanks for your knowledge.

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One more note. When removing the engine and trans from the top, you must first remove the heater box on the firewall. Both parts - the part with the blower motor and the part with the heater core - must come off. Note that these parts are removed in the photo I posted.

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Keller,

Fusick has a 63 repair manual reproduced. This would be a big help for you. Also D & D are the experts. Give them another try. The son is running it now but if Dan is there you should talk to him. Not sure of the price but I would think not cheap. These old 215V8's are hard to come by now. The other group you should join is the Yahoo group is skylark616263(skylark616263 : Skylark/Specials 61 62 63) you could come up with a used engine. Joe really has first hand knowledge so he is the best to check with.

Good Luck,

Ken

Edited by kid442 (see edit history)
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First, throw away the Chiltons and get a factory service manual. Note that the 1962 manual is a supplement to the 1961 manual, so you actually need both.

Second, I don't know what "isolation" mounts you are talking about exactly, but there are two motor mounts, one on each side of the block, and a trans mount at the tailhousing. In any case, you CANNOT pull the engine and leave the Rotohydramatic trans in the car. The RH5 does not use a conventional torque converter. The fluid coupling is in the middle of the trans and there is an input shaft that looks like the one on a manual trans inside the bellhousing. The flywheel has a spring loaded flexplate bolted to it that looks like the hub of a clutch disk for a manual trans. There is NOT enough clearance to pull the engine forward to disengage this input shaft from the hub - the oil pan sump will hit the crossmember. There is not enough clearance between the trans and the floorpan to raise the engine enough to get clearance, either. You MUST pull the engine and trans as a unit and disassemble the two once out of the car. Been there, done that. Your only alternative is to drop the trans first, which is just extra work, in my opinion.

Despite what the factory service manual says (the manual tells you to drop the crossmember and drivetrain as a unit and lift the car off of it...), you CAN pull the engine and trans together from the top so long as you use an engine tilter on the hoist, as you need to get a very "nose-up" attitude to clear. You might want to check out this thread:

New motor for the 62 - ClassicOldsmobile.com

joe_padavano-albums-1962+f-85+wagon-picture2503-old-motor-out.jpg

Thanks for the help! I was able to get the engine and tranny out in a few hours.

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Keller,

Fusick has a 63 repair manual reproduced. This would be a big help for you.

His car is a 62, so I would still recommend getting the 61/62 manuals, which will have full info on the car as well as the engine. These manuals are very common on ebay.

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Take a look and let me know what you think.

What's with that funny air cleaner??? :D

It's interesting to note that not only was Olds first to market with a factory turbocharger, but this is probably one of the first cars designed for the engine and front suspension to drop out as a unit - a procedure now common on most new cars.

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So I have the engine almost tore down. Everything in the top end looks great. (very minimal wear if any) Found one bad lifter with a missing retainer clip. When I dropped the oil pan initial, the where some small brass flakes. The cam bearing look great. Where else could those brass flakes come from? Connecting rod bearings? The flakes are non-ferrous.

Edited by MontanaKeller (see edit history)
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  • 1 year later...
Ken, you missed the ":D"...

i jest removed my motor from my 62 f85cutlass all i did was unbolt the tranny from the motor 6 bolts and the 2 motor mounts 4 bolte jacked upthe tranny to hit the fire wall then me and a buddy pulled the motor forword and lift it right out no problim

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