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Leaking Dynaflow Need Advice!


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I need some advice regarding a leak from my dynaflow. The car has a pretty good leak of transmission fluid from the rear joint on the torque tube to the differential housing. I am not sure where the fluid is coming from, except that it is trans fluid? I also have a small leak from under the transmission as well, but not to the extent of the rear leakage. I haven't driven the car much lately, so I am quite sure that some of it is from the drainage of the torque converter overfilling the trans pan. However, even when I drive it, it still has a leak in that rear joint area. Has anyone had this problem? If so, how did you go about to repair or fix it? Any help would be truly appreciated? Thanks.

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Jim:

It looks like it is time to do a rebuild on the torque ball. Look at step 6 of the attached thumbnail. This seal prevents the transmission oil from migrating past the splined end of the torque ball U-joint into the torque tube housing. When you do this, there are a lot of forum input on the torque ball peculiarities.

Dan

post-54279-143138586914_thumb.jpg

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Thanks Dan. I will look into it in the shop manual. I was hoping that it was something simple that a little sealant might take care of, but I figured the it was more like that. Hopefully I won't have too much trouble taking the torque tube / torque ball apart, like most of the threads I have read..:eek:

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Dan, after reading the shop manual, does it mean that I have to basically disassemble the whole rear end of the car to make this fix? If so, I might be inclined to let her leak for a while, since I don't have the space or tools to take apart the springs, etc. Wow, leave it to Buick to make it this complicated. Didn't have this problem on my 57 Chevy. It seems pretty daunting of a task, especially after reading all the posts regarding the torque ball issues and R&R of them. Yikes!!!:eek::confused:

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If you can get a copy of the August (I think it was) 2009 Buick Bugle, I wrote an article about fixing the torque ball seals on my '53. You'll need some room to pull the differential/torque tube out the back (not necessary to pull it all the way out), and a helper really helps. The rest is pretty straightforward. If you're mechanical and plan all your moves out ahead of time, it may be a 2-4 hour job, depending on how bolts go in and out, etc. Good luck!

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Ok, so it doesn't sound like too hard of a task, I think. Now, any recommendations on where to buy the repair parts? I saw a torqueball seal kit on ebay. BUICK DYNAFLOW TORQUE BALL RETAINER LEAK SEAL KIT 53-60 - eBay (item 300566047798 end time Jul-09-11 13:40:32 PDT) for $109. Any ideas or reviews from this seller? Are the torque balls the same for all Dynaflows? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

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Depending upon the age and previous repair status of your torque ball, you may discover that the current torque ball is the type that has rubber vulcanized to it, and that the torque ball outer retainer does not.

The repair kits that are available are all of the later design, in which the torque ball is bare and the outer retainer is what contains the rubber contact ring. So if the car has not been apart, don't be alarmed if things look different. In this case you would remove the rubber from the ball and use the newer design retainer.

It's not really advisable to let this leak continue, if fluid is making its way past the propeller shaft seal. If this is the case, then fluid is making its way down the tube and into your rear differential, in all likelihood. This can cause rear differential failure as the tranny fluid is unsuitable for the diff.

If you have difficulty in getting the torque ball past the center frame support, jack up the transmission an inch or so. The mount has flattened out over the years and that little bit of clearance makes a huge difference.

As long as your internals are all OK, and there are no unforseen repairs, the torque ball seals and the propeller shaft seal are not really a very hard job, as daunting as it may sound. Had I not had more serious issues, mine would have been out and back together in 4 hours on my first ever try at this. That's another story.

Good luck, and read the procedures. Using guide pins is critical.

Edited by DinoBob
typo (see edit history)
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Thanks for the critical information. Definitely do not want to have a differential failure on top of this. Glad that it is not that hard of a task, it sure looks pretty complicated reading it, but then that means they have the information pretty well covered on the serviceability point.

I will use the tip on raising the transmission up a bit as well. That is very helpful information. Thanks.

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One other point to consider is the thrust pad and mount. If they are originals, they might be pretty bad by now. They could be more or less fine till you take them apart, and have the rubber fall apart on you, then have to wait to get the parts. I went through this the first time I did one.

Not tough to change when everything is apart, so then would be the time to do it.

Keith

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Just saw this Jim.

The leak at the front of the pumpkin is a seal at the front of the torque tube not the torque ball UNLESS it is a completely different design from a 55. A new torque ball retainer will only stop leaks at the back of the torque ball.

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Mike's right...there's also a driveshaft seal in there that seals the splines. Make sure to buy that separately. The torque tube seal itself comes with the torque ball kit (usually).

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The kit you have seen on ebay is what you need,the seal is the problem why the torque ball leaks,if you don`t remove the old seal and put a new one it will leak again.The turque ball is not the biggest problem becuse if the seal isn`t okey it will leak anyway iven if you use a new torque ball,but of course you need to take a look at the T.B anyway.

Leif in Sweden.

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So, to understand this properly, I need to get basically 3 kits - one for the torque ball retainer (vulcanized rubber to metal seal and associated gaskets and seals), one for the prop shaft splines - per Aaron65 and then one Dyanflow rear seal kit? I guess I don't want to tear it apart and then not have the right stuff around to fix it when it's disassembled. Can anyone verify this? Thanks.

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The ebay kit you linked us to has the torque tube seal and the vulcanized torque ball seal kit. It does not has the prop shaft spline seal...you'd have to get that one part separately.

A spline seal is not used on 57's, so the kit will have all you need.

Willie

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So I am still asking the question, but at least I know that I do not need a spline seal. So do I need the torque ball retainer seal kit as well as the rear seal kit or just the rear seal kit? Please let me know. I guess that I would need both of them, right?

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So I am still asking the question, but at least I know that I do not need a spline seal. So do I need the torque ball retainer seal kit as well as the rear seal kit or just the rear seal kit? Please let me know. I guess that I would need both of them, right?

See post #7...it has all you need.

Willie

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