drumyn29 Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 i am new to this site and just bought a 1929 plymouth 4 door sedan. Coming from a hot rod background I will need a little help if I can get it. i'm looking for mechanical parts for my 29 and any input that I can get as well.jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Harmatuk Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 I have a 30 Chrysler CJ-6, 4 dr sedan. About half way finished.Almost the same as your Plymouth. They share most of the mechanical parts with Dodge and Desoto. Same body except for minor details.There is a ton of information to be had on this Forum as long as your going to restore the car. If your not going to keep it some were close to original mechanically then thats your choice. Then people like me will try to buy your parts such as running gear and wheels etc. (I need your transmission)I really hope your going to keep the Plymouth original. They are grand old cars and very road worthy with the hydraulic brakes and the smooth and capable 6 cylinder engine. Very comfortable to drive also.Some pictures of your car are a must, for us to see, and then a list of your wants and needs. Post on the Plymouth section of this forum and Google everything.E Bay has stuff all the time, depending on what you need.Good luck.Bill H Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 Welcome to the forum. You picked the right place. If you scroll down to the Plymouth forum below, you will get even more help. I am sure Bill meant to say 4 cylinder and not 6 cylinder since the first Plymouth 6 was in 1932. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Harmatuk Posted June 18, 2011 Share Posted June 18, 2011 What??How was I supposed to know that??Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted June 18, 2011 Share Posted June 18, 2011 What??How was I supposed to know that??BillSorry Bill....I thought for some reason that you were a very knowing dyed in the wool Chrysler guy since I see you on the forum a lot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drumyn29 Posted June 18, 2011 Author Share Posted June 18, 2011 thank you for the positive input! I am going to keep it stock AND I do have some extra parts but no transmissions. OI'm actually looking for pictures of the engine bay of a finished car and I need a carb. and air cleaner and headlight lens and misc. stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drumyn29 Posted June 18, 2011 Author Share Posted June 18, 2011 pics Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Braverman Posted June 18, 2011 Share Posted June 18, 2011 Welcome to the forum. You picked the right place. If you scroll down to the Plymouth forum below, you will get even more help. I am sure Bill meant to say 4 cylinder and not 6 cylinder since the first Plymouth 6 was in 1932.The first Plymouth six was in 1933. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted June 18, 2011 Share Posted June 18, 2011 (edited) The first Plymouth six was in 1933.I guess I am no Plymouth expert, either. For some reason I thought the '32 PB was the six. Now I see it's the '33 PC. Thanks Steve. Drumyn29....NICE car!! Edited June 18, 2011 by keiser31 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nzcarnerd Posted June 18, 2011 Share Posted June 18, 2011 (edited) I have a 1929 Plymouth sedan, much the same as the one in the pics except that it was built in Canada and is right hand drive. It is mostly original and has 78,000 miles on it. I note that the car pictured is minus the vacuum line from the manifold. These cars did not have an aircleaner originally but I have fitted a K&N to mine just to filter the rocks out. There is some good info at ply33's site - Plymouth: The First Decade and also at - Cars, trucks, and Chrysler-Plymouth-Dodge-Jeep histories for various yearsWhen you get the car going it is important to remember that it is not a fast car. About 45 mph is as much as you would want to cruise at. Mine still has its original fabric driveshaft universal joints so vibrates terribly on the over run. The quoted horsepower peak is at 2800 rpm which on the standard gearing is about 60 mph. The Plymouth is at its best on back roads and like any car if its era will go anywhere. The nearby Banks Peninsula has many steep winding gravel roads and the Plymouth handles them no problems at all. Because the original carb needs rebuilding I am using a Tillotson carb that I previously had on a Studebaker Dictator. I get about 20 mpg (imperial) but I am sure it could be improved on. Edited June 18, 2011 by nzcarnerd (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nzcarnerd Posted June 18, 2011 Share Posted June 18, 2011 Regarding the driveshafts there are several local Plymouths that have had their driveshafts upgraded using parts from early 1960s Valiants. I was told of this quite a few years ago but I think you need two Valiant shafts and use the front universal from each one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nzcarnerd Posted June 18, 2011 Share Posted June 18, 2011 Note that the 1929 Plymouth does not have cowl lights. That is the easiest way to distinguish the four cylinder Plymouths from the various DeSotos, Dodges and Chryslers that share the same body.The 1929 Plymouth is unique in that that is the only year the engine is that particular size. All of these four cylinder engines from the Maxwell of the late teens, through that Chrysler 58, 50 and 52, to the last Plymouth PB are the bore size - 3 5/8". They just fiddled with the stroke.The 1928 Plymouth is shorter in the stroke than the 1929 - 4 1/8" for 170 cid vs 4 1/4" for 175 cid, and the 1929 model also has a stronger crank - and I think also has bigger journals. From 1930 the stroke went to 4 3/4" to bring the displacement up to 196 cid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Harmatuk Posted June 18, 2011 Share Posted June 18, 2011 Great stuff.I'm learning as I go, Keiser31.You and the other guys on this thread are the experts.Love your thread on your transmission.I've decided to just "dig in" to mine". Why not... I've been a mechanic since I was 12 years old and I have the tools.Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted June 18, 2011 Share Posted June 18, 2011 Great stuff.I'm learning as I go, Keiser31.You and the other guys on this thread are the experts.Love your thread on your transmission.I've decided to just "dig in" to mine". Why not... I've been a mechanic since I was 12 years old and I have the tools.BillBill...I decided that since I assembled my first 1931 DB at the age of 15, why wouldn't I be able to do it at 58? Drumyn29....I think I have the headlight lens that you need... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted June 18, 2011 Share Posted June 18, 2011 My Great Uncle was a machinist for Chrysler when the new 1928 Plymouth was introduced to compete against the Ford A and Chevy 6.He said that was the first major use of the Hotchkiss rear end in the US (open driveshaft).He also told me that Chrysler was a little short of cash to roll out the new model. they could afford the production machinery but not the building. So they set the machines on pads and used large circus type tents to house them until funds for the building were available. He had a picture of himself in the tent next to a rear end assembly in an old automotive trade publication. When he passed away one one could find it. I think I had first seen that pic and heard the stories when I was about 11 years old.1928 was only 30 years before that. Kind of like talking about things we did in the 1980's today. Time flies! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ply33 Posted June 18, 2011 Share Posted June 18, 2011 a word of caution - about road speeds with cars from the 20's - heck - even up to the mid 1930's (when "insert" style connecting rod bearings were adopted).These days, many car buffs think a drive along what is left of U.S. Highway 66 (mistakenly called "Route" 66 by those whose only knowledge of that era is from a Bobby Troupe "pop" song from the late 1940's) gives you an idea of driving conditions of that era.WRONG. Most every section of what is left of U.S. Highway 66, that is drivable, are left-overs from the major re-alignment and paving from the late 1930's and early 1940's. On those sections, it is possible to cruise for extended periods of time at high speeds.With a little hunting, you can find sections of U.S. Highway 66 that are still driveable, that give you a clear idea of what cars from that era were designed for. Take, for example, the section between Kingman and GoldRoad, Arizona, up over Sitgreaves Pass. It is POSSIBLE to get up to 50 mph in places, but I rather doubt if you would feel comfortable trying that even with the far more competent suspension and braking systems coming in, in the mid 1930's.Bottom line - drive your pre mid-1930's car the way its designers intended. 35-40 mph TOPS. And even at speeds that seem to you to be impossibly conservative, dont be surprised if you have severe motor problems. Connecting rod bearing failure was such a common event in those years, that you find repeated reference to it in so many books written about travel - I recommend John Stienbeck's GRAPES OF WRATH the 1940 movie is available on disc - to get a better understanding of REAL driving conditions in that era.The original post is about a 1929 Plymouth which does indeed have poured babbit bearings. And despite its full pressure lubrication system probably ought to be kept under 50 for long distance driving. But Chrysler was know for engineering back in those days and through its Plymouth Motors Company brought a lot better engineering to its low end cars than other brands.For example, starting with the 1933 introduction of the 6 cylinder engine it had full pressure lubrication, thin shell insert bearings, cam ground aluminum pistons, fully counterbalanced four bearing crank, hardened exhaust valve seat inserts and a factory installed oil filter. And the engine designs were run at max BHP in 50 hour tests before release of the design. For a stock 1933 DeLuxe Plymouth with 4.375:1 rear end that works out to 65 MPH. For the Standard 6 with a 4.11:1 rear end that works out to 70 MPH. This is basically the same engine used in passenger cars until 1959 and in industrial applications until 1972.So don't paint the Plymouth with the same brush as other popular low end brands of the era that had poured babbit, splash fed three bearing unbalanced cranks and cast iron pistons.I've followed a 1931 PA with a little later version of the engine in the poster's 29 Plymouth on a 250 mile trip where an average speed of 50 MPH was maintained. A bit faster than I'd have driven that car but it took it in stride. My bigger worry at that speed in a car that old is the brakes and suspension.I've been on the soap box long enough. If you care to read more about my opinions on this you can visit Plymouth First Decade: How Fast Should I Drive? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Braverman Posted June 19, 2011 Share Posted June 19, 2011 So don't paint the Plymouth with the same brush as other popular low end brands of the era that had poured babbit, splash fed three bearing unbalanced cranks and cast iron pistons.I've followed a 1931 PA with a little later version of the engine in the poster's 29 Plymouth on a 250 mile trip where an average speed of 50 MPH was maintained. A bit faster than I'd have driven that car but it took it in stride. My bigger worry at that speed in a car that old is the brakes and suspension.I have driven my PA many miles at 50mph. It is a very comfortable speed for the car. I once floored it for a few seconds and it hit 70. The brakes are also very competent at 50mph. The '29 Plymouth is a different animal, and probably would be more comfortable at 40-45.I have also driven my Franklin many thousands of miles at 55mph with no problems. If the engine is in good condition, it can be driven! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drumyn29 Posted June 19, 2011 Author Share Posted June 19, 2011 does anyone have pics of the 4 cyl motor. not sure where the vacuum line is going, carb? and there are some cables(maybe choke) that look like they go to carb and maybe exhaust manifold? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nzcarnerd Posted June 19, 2011 Share Posted June 19, 2011 On the 1929 car there are two push/pull buttons on the dash; one is for the spark advance (that is the lever on the side of the distributor) and the other is for the choke. The vacuum line from the manifold goes to the wipers. The vacuum for the vacuum fuel supply tank comes from down by the oil pump. At least it does on my car.Sorry, no pics at the moment as my camera is out of town for another week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drumyn29 Posted June 19, 2011 Author Share Posted June 19, 2011 is this a fuel or oil cannister? fuel vacuum? where do the two fittings go? are they supposed to be brass tubing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drumyn29 Posted June 19, 2011 Author Share Posted June 19, 2011 on the water pump there are these two, what are they?thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drumyn29 Posted June 19, 2011 Author Share Posted June 19, 2011 (edited) does this(fitting on the oil pump)go to the oil pressure gauge? Edited June 19, 2011 by drumyn29 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drumyn29 Posted June 19, 2011 Author Share Posted June 19, 2011 horn wires coming from the bottom of the steering box?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drumyn29 Posted June 19, 2011 Author Share Posted June 19, 2011 does the wiper vacuum line go to a switch on dash or straight to wiper? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted June 19, 2011 Share Posted June 19, 2011 does the wiper vacuum line go to a switch on dash or straight to wiper?Straight to the wiper motor. Most of the '28 thru '31 Chrysler products had the vacuum line going up through the driver's side "A" pillar and over to the wiper motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drumyn29 Posted June 19, 2011 Author Share Posted June 19, 2011 what kind of line, brass? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted June 19, 2011 Share Posted June 19, 2011 what kind of line, brass?I think that the ones in my '31s are steel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drumyn29 Posted June 20, 2011 Author Share Posted June 20, 2011 brake line maybe. does anyone sell parts for these? Kanter, hemmings? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 I don't see why a steel brake line wouldn't work. I would check the threads for the size on the manifold with a bolt and go to the local Napa and get a fitting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nzcarnerd Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 (edited) Your questions got me thinking and I went out to the shed for a look at my '29. Of course here it is mid-winter, although so far it has been much more mild than usual. Today was dull and rainy but the temperature was still around 10 degrees C (mid 40s F). It is just after 6.30pm as I write this so it is dark outside, the sun having gone down around 5pm. I haven't driven my car on the road for some months but did trailer it to a grass gymkhana event a few weeks ago. I drove it out of the shed last weekend in order to do some tidying - another way of saying re-arranging the junk - sorry, treasures - mostly some of my kids' lawnmower collection which needed to be moved so that we could borrow some 20 inch tyre tubes out of my currently-in-storage GE Studebaker and put them on the 1926 Pontiac we are playing with.Regarding your pipework. Re the two fittings on top of the vacuum tank; the female fitting should be facing to the outside of the car and attached to the fuel line coming from the tank. The other one connects to the fitting on the oil pump. The vacuum supply for the fuel system comes from the crankcase which is more constant than that from the manifold. I think, but could be corrected, that early Buick nailheads from the 1950s use this system to supply the wipers. Your oil pressure guage line goes to a fitting under the starter motor - on the other side from everything else we have been discussing. You may need to remove the starter to find it the fitting. My car is right hand drive, of course, so to add to the confusion in the area of the vacuum tank and carb and spark controls etc there is a steering box and column. The 1926 Pontiac also being rhd and having a rear exit exhaust manifold is a very tight fit in that area.Unless someone supplies photos earlier I will try to get some on here next week when my camera comes home.There is no water pump of course and I suspect that those fittings on the water pipe are later additions to allow fitting a heater, but I guess it is possible that they are something added for 1930.Have you checked your engine number to see which sequence it fits in to? Edited June 20, 2011 by nzcarnerd (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nzcarnerd Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 By the way my fuel and vacuum lines are copper with brass fittings but I know that when I replaced the brake lines some years ago I used steel that I was supplied to me by the brake shop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hddennis Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 does the wiper vacuum line go to a switch on dash or straight to wiper?Jeff I could be wrong but my first antique car was a 1928 Plymouth and it had a knurled knob on the dash that twisted open to start the wipers and regulate them. I thought then that the thought of "regulating " a vacuum wiper was funny as most I'd seen either didn't work at all or almost worked sometimes!Howard Dennis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Grahams Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 Hi Drumyn 29, Your Plymouth is 30U not a 29. It has a 29U engine with the generator mounted where the 30U has a water pump. Features which identify it as a 30U are, the wide radiator shell, painted head lights, position of the serial number plate on the fire wall, Steel panel on side of roof above the doors, style of vents on side of hood (bonnet),etc. Grahams New Zealand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stampe Posted August 19, 2017 Share Posted August 19, 2017 Anyone have any suggestions on getting the babbitt bearings repoured on my 1929 Plymouth? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted August 19, 2017 Share Posted August 19, 2017 (edited) Depends on where you are. There is a local guy here in southern Oregon that does that, but we don't know your location. Just a suggestion....you should start a new post so this does not get confused with the original post. Edited August 19, 2017 by keiser31 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stampe Posted August 20, 2017 Share Posted August 20, 2017 Thanks, keiser31. I'm in Springfield, OR so that would be a perfect location. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted August 20, 2017 Share Posted August 20, 2017 He may or may not have the same phone number.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwells0803 Posted June 3, 2020 Share Posted June 3, 2020 On 6/19/2011 at 2:41 PM, drumyn29 said: on the water pump there are these two, what are they? thanks in advance. Hey, I know mine is different, but did you ever get info on what is suppose to mount to this? I have a 1928 Model Q Coupe that has one side of this tied to the lever on the steering wheel and the other side of it is open. I've been told it is suppose to be the "low Idle" but don't know how it is suppose to connect.. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Derek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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