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hydraulic window problems on a 47 Buick super eight


Guest craftsmen22

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Guest craftsmen22

Hi there,

I am helping a friend to solve a problem on his 47 Buick super eight convertible. Whenever the hydraulic pump for the windows was operated, the oil was dripping out around the passengers foot area. Now I took off the door panel, and the passenger foot area liner. Sure enaugh, once the pump was running, oil came dripping out the rubber tunnel where the rubber hose is running, which connects the two steel pipes which lead to the window operating cylinder. So I assume the rubber hose in the door is ripped.

Now my questions are, where to get replacement rubber hoses and would the rubber hoses in the door area be the only two rubber hoses, or are there any other rubber hoses, i.e. at the hydraulic bench seat, too?

Thank you,

Tom

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Guest craftsmen22

thank you for your reply, I was planning to change all the hoses, but just would like to be sure where they are located, so if anyone can give me a hint on that I would be thankful.

Regards,

Tom

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Tom,

There are four hydraulic hoses in a '47 Buick convertible. There is a hose between each door and the cowl and two hoses at the pump.The seat cylinder is connected with all hard tubing. The pump is located on the left side of the firewall under the fender. If you look down in that area, you'll see the hoses connecting to tubing coming out of the firewall. The hoses have inverted-flare fitting ends (like brake line fittings). A good hydraulic shop should be able to make workable replacements. With the door hoses, it is important that end fittings are small enough to fit through the rubber conduit. If the conduit is damaged, you can get replacements from Steele Rubber Parts. Hope this helps.

Mike Lawson

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Any hose a hydraulic shop makes up will not go through the door post as the diameter is a lot to big. I used a gas line that is built for the late model high pressure fuel systems. The 47 Buick pump only puts out about 200 lbs pressure so this hose works fine. I bought standard manufactured fittings for each end (barbed nipple on one end and flare fitting on the other end) and clamped the hose down on the fittings using good quality worm gear clamps. I used the same procedure to make the 2 lines that go from the pump to the firewall. The cost is very cheap and it is very workable. Bobs automobilia has those double rubber connectors that go from the door post to into the door.

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Guest craftsmen22

@48super,

thank you so much for pointing out the location of the rubber hoses. I'll check it, and I already got a place for new hoses. It's hydro-e-lectric, they can be found unter hydroe.com.

@pirate: your solution sounds good, but to be honest I am sitting here in Germany, so I would have to find a gas lines and the correct fittings. So it might be easier for me to order my stuff from the U.S.

Would anyone of you guys know where to get seals for the car. We need to replace the door rubber seals.

Regards,

Tom

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Guest Straight eight

Steele Rubber Parts would have any rubber parts the car requires.

Has anyone told you that automatic transmission fluid for GM cars can be substitiuted for the brake fluid in the hydraulic system? Just make sure you flush it well first Brake fluid will not blend with automatic transmission fluid.

You friends at Hydro-E-Lectric can fill you in on the details.

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Guest craftsmen22

Straight eight, thank you for the information. Do you have any hint for how to flush the system with before putting in new oil. And there is a chance, that there is already ATF in, how would I be able to tell the difference which liquid is currently in.

Regards and thank you,

Tom

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Guest Straight eight

If ATF is in there, it will be red or at least pinkish. Brake fluid is colorless, and has its very own smell.

I believe in the old days they used Decelene to flush the system, but I really dont know, as I replaced all the hoses and cylinders when I installed the ATF. As I recall, I filled it once, ran it, and then emptied and refilled.

When ordering stuff from Hydro-E-Lectric, ask em, they deal with this every day. They may even have a manual that will fill you in.

Edited by Straight eight (see edit history)
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If you are planning to use the hose clamps I have found that using the die for the first step of a double flare fitting makes a nice "bubble" similar the factory fuel and vacuum lines. Then you have a raised section of the steel line to help retain the hose and clamp.

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If you are planning to use the hose clamps I have found that using the die for the first step of a double flare fitting makes a nice "bubble" similar the factory fuel and vacuum lines. Then you have a raised section of the steel line to help retain the hose and clamp.

That's a great idea! I'm going to file it under "why didn't I think of that".

Thanks, Willie

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