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Bleeding Brakes 1956 Olds


nifty 6

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Now that I have the rebuilt power booster installed I need to bleed the lines.

The wheel cylinders are still original and at this point won't replace them unless I find an issue with them after bleeding. The wheel cylinder do not have a bleeder fitting but instead just has a small screw. I am unable to find any very small bleeders to fit. So what are my options? suggestions? Just open the screw and let the fluid spray all over? Any suggestions would be appreciated. See picture from my manual.

post-53514-143138558026_thumb.jpg

post-53514-143138558029_thumb.jpg

Edited by nifty 6 (see edit history)
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Guest rsd9699

I personally would rebuild all the cylinders and replace the 3 rubber brake hoses. Having had a cylinder "blow out" is not fun. The life you save may be someone elses. I was lucky it happen at 10 mph and I hit a curb to stop the car. Since brake fluid absorbs water, you can rest knowing that the aluminum pistons have corroded, the rubber cups are warped due to age, and pits in the cast iron just waiting to leak with much usage.

Just follow the shop manual on bleeding. You can pressure bleed by rigging a hose over the brake master cylinder dip stick fitting. Use your finger as a check valve at the wheel and replace screw under a light pressure to prevent air being drawn in.

Ron

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Guest rsd9699

Also you can remover the screw (just there to keep dirt out), crack open the bleeder screw, slip some vacuum hose over the bleeder screw and the other end into a jar with a little brake fluid in it, pump the pedal until no bubbles in jar, close bleeder screw, replace center screw. Go to next cylinder and repeat until all are done.

Ron

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  • 1 month later...

I am bleeding my bakes but have run into another problem. I have brake fluid coming out of all the wheel cylinders except the front passenger cylinder. Could the blockage be in the wheel cylinder? I took the bleeding screw completely out and gently poked the opening with a sharp awl and also blew in compressed air but still nothing comes out. If not the cylinder I am assuming I have a blockage in the line somewhere from where it splits from the Y that the other line goes to the front driver cylinder.

Thanks

Ron

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Guest rsd9699

Most likely the rubber hose is bad - I would recomment all new hoses and rebuild on master and wheels - after all, the life you save may just be your own. 20 years on rubber is about the best you can hope for then it is a major gamble with every press of the pedal.

No brakes at 60 mph way cause a stain on the front seat that would be hard to explain - ha ha.

Ron

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Guest DinoBob

I must say that, screws aside, I agree with the advice given here. If those wheel cylinders are original, it is only a matter of time until one fails. They are 55 years old, after all. I would strongly recommend a new set. They will be pitted and packed with crust. My '60 Buick had brakes that felt strong and true; the teardown revealed an impending failure at one wheel and the master. All are now new (as are the lines and hardware). Do it - you'll never be sorry.

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Starting to remove the rubber hose and cylinders. I have no problem removing all the hold down hardware etc as I have done this before but removing the rubber hoses is new to me. What is the best way to tackle this? Remove the rubber hose at the bracket and leave the brake line on? or remove the brake line first? or? I have enclosed pictures.

http://i53.tinypic.com/2h2gi9h.jpg

http://i56.tinypic.com/300z4eu.jpg

http://i56.tinypic.com/20j0cok.jpg

Thanks again

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What I usually do is soak the top fitting with a good penetrant like Kroil for a couple of days before I want to mess with it. Then use a line wrench on the upper fitting and hold the brake hose with the proper sized open end. After the fitting is loose, remove the clip. Joe

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Guest rsd9699

I agree with pacerman's plan of action. then clean the area with brake cleaner to remove the oil that can damage the rubber internally. Use of new rubbers hoses is a cheap insurance policy.

Ron

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