Pertronix owners

[RivNut]

I'd like to hear from you as to which unit you're running on your nailhead or early big block (430/455) for pure street use. The Pertronix catalog lists three different units: the Ignitor, Igintor II, and Ignitor III.

I just want to replace the stock OE points and condenser. No racing, high rpm's, nothing more than normal motoring around. I'm hoping that eliminating the points and condenser will make the engine run more efficiently and help with the mpg's.

Or, if you'd suggest a different brand, what would you suggest.

Thanks,

Ed

Edited May 18, 2011 by RivNut (see edit history)

[johnrex]

Ed. I have had the original Pertronix unit for the last 9 years in my '64 along with their coil. Never had any problem but I do carry a spare module just in case.

John

[Ron Luchene]

Ed,

I have been running the Igniter III with the Flame Thrower coil and their wire set since October. I widened the gap on the plugs by .005" and it runs great. I have a 3.23 rear end and the mileage is typically 12-13mpg but I am in the gas pedal a lot. I have no complaints!

Ron

[steelman]

Had the Igniter I in mine for a year and a half. No issues at all for me. Don't know if it improved my milage or not, because I didn't have the car back on the road before I made the change. I will do this mod to every early car I own.

[Guest Kingoftheroad]

I have the original Igniter in my old Nailhead, it runs better then it ever did with the points. I've never checked gas mileage.

[JZRIV]

I guess I'm old fashioned when it comes to switching to Pertronix. Thought about it many times but never did. I got 16-17 mpg on a trip cruising at 60mph in my 67/430 with points so never thought a Pertronix would squeeze any more out than that. After reading many Pertronix reviews over the years, it wasn't enough to make me want to switch on a car I drove maybe 1500 miles a year.

I think the feedback/benefit of Pertronix can be somewhat clouded because when someone switches to Pertronix, its probable they needed a tuneup to begin with so after installation it is perceived the Pertronix did wonders over the old worn out points. So the results are most always left up to ones perception rather than scientific comparison testing. Its probably out there but I don't ever recall seeing a dyno comparison between the two. Maybe try to google that and see what comes up.

I will say if I was driving a car with points every day, I would switch to Pertronix to avoid the frequent maintenance of replacing points to maintain top performance. As the points wear, perfromance gradually goes down until they are replaced whereas with Pertronix you don't have to be concerned with that issue. I think thats the biggest benefit by far, but in a seldom driven car its not so much. The other area where Pertronix would benefit is on an engine that had other HP enhancing mods.

I always believed the most gain was achieved by insuring the carb, distributor, and timing advance both mechanical and vacuum were all well tuned.

I know this doesn't answer your question specifically but just a little more food for thought.

Edited May 19, 2011 by JZRIV (see edit history)

[rick60]

I installed a Pertronix unit in my car (Ford). All of the tune up adjustments were set to specs prior to the installation. After the installation of the Pertronix unit the car started faster with less cranking. idle quality was improved. I never checked the MPG. I think the Pertronix unit was a great improvement.

[Guest daidock]

Hi Ed. I've got the Ignitor 2 and coil ready to fit. I bought them from CARS as a direct replacement for the original set up. I'm just in the process of doing a full tank to full tank mpg test before fitting so that I can get a reasonable idea re any mpg improvement. I expect mpg will be a little better but mainly hope for the better reliability etc that I'm told will result. I understand that any wear in the distributor can be a major headache when you fit electronic ignition.

[Guest patbommer]

Hi,

i driving with the Petronix II with the Coil from them since 5 Years. 401 Nailhead. never had Problems...

[Guest 75RivGS]

Had the II/Flamethrower on a 455.. died within 3 months of use... warranty covered; and so, when the new one came in I sold it and put in an original GM HEI

[tjthorson]

I have an ignitor 1 in the 64 riv 425 super wildcat I got my dad. No issues with it running. I have heard stories that if you leave the key on for an extended period of time without it running can burn it up. I have an ignitor 3 in the glove box - just in case - but it has had no issues. I also heard that if you have play in the upper rotor shaft bushing that the halo ring for the ignitor sensor can move out of place and chew up the sensor - but our has no signs of that. All I did was remove the points, plate, condensor, etc - and ran the wire up to the coil. Works perfect. I heard the horror stories - but my experience has been great.

[RivNut]

I posted this same question on other forums besides this one. One of the more popular responses I got from some of the inquiries was the M H Electric Fabricators electronic ignition. A couple of things about it that are "likeable" are that it can run off of the exisitng resistor wire, it will automatically shut down if you leave current running to it, it has active dwell control, you run your stock coil and distributor cap, and it's simple R&R to get it in place. All you need to carry in your glove box, should it fail, is a set of points and a condenser.

Here's a page from there website.

Breakerless Ignition

The biggest fan of the MH unit is the well known nailhead guru Tom Telesco. Tom's never had one fail yet.

Ed

[tjthorson]

I posted this same question on other forums besides this one. One of the more popular responses I got from some of the inquiries was the M H Electric Fabricators electronic ignition. A couple of things about it that are "likeable" are that it can run off of the exisitng resistor wire, it will automatically shut down if you leave current running to it, it has active dwell control, you run your stock coil and distributor cap, and it's simple R&R to get it in place. All you need to carry in your glove box, should it fail, is a set of points and a condenser.

Here's a page from there website.

Breakerless Ignition

The biggest fan of the MH unit is the well known nailhead guru Tom Telesco. Tom's never had one fail yet.

Ed

Looks cool - but I will say that is IDENTICAL to the pertronix I am running - and certainly I cant say that I havent ever heard of a pertronix "never" failing... - but my pertronix is the same way as you describe, just remove the breaker points, plate and consensor and bolt in the new unit. One wire runs up to the coil and it looks totally stock once the cap is on. I used my stock cap, rotor, coil, etc. You would have to remove the halo ring to go back to points (just save the old screws from the rotor) - but the new ignitor 3 doesnt use a halo ring anyway, has an adjustable rev limiter, and doesnt worry about leaving the ignition on either. I paid like $80 from Jegs for the ignitor 3 I have as a backup "just in case"....

Edited June 1, 2011 by tjthorson (see edit history)

[Guest Kingoftheroad]

You guys carry an extra set of points / Ignitor ?? WOW.

I don't, never thought I needed to carry extra parts.

[bodayguy]

Just reviving this thread because I bought the Ignitor III and matching coil and plan to install it soon.

 

If anyone has any tips or words of warning, that'd be great. My main hope is to cut down the cranking time on startup. The car runs and idles fine on the stock setup but I thought this might be a worthwhile upgrade.

[telriv]

If the car is used daily is it still have excessive crank time??? If it sits for a week or more at a time the AFB carb. drains back/runs dry. Not so bad with a 4GC, but they have other problems also. The fix of course, if fuel related, is install a electric pump to prime before cranking. Personally, myself, I would rather the starter crank the engine for a period of time BEFORE IT STARTS. My reasoning is when the engine doesn't run for a week, month, 3 months, etc on an immediate start the bearings are dry & DRY STARTS are what causes the MOST wear on initial starts. Many say that the starter is being worn out. I would rather replace/rebuild the starter rather than replace bearings/rebuild engines.

[bodayguy]

You are correct telriv, it's most likely a fuel issue on startup, but I have noticed lately it starting funny even after the initial one. I am probably stressing the starter already. I drive it every few weeks, not daily, of course.

[HuntzNSam]

Rich,

We just installed the Pertronix III on our 60 401.  The only tip we have is plan on removing the distributor, despite the package claim it can be done in place.  Even Sally wasn't flexible enough to work the rock hard grommet out of the base of the distributor with linkage and carb in the way. It's a long reach!  On the bench, it was much easier.  Working great, though only a couple hundred miles since.  The Pertronix II in our 52 Chevy truck daily driver has 50000 miles, with no issues.

Thanks

HuntzNSam

[lrlforfun]

OK Huntz: Is there a replacement grommet for the bottom of the distributor?  Mitch

[HuntzNSam]

Mitch,

Yes, included with the Pertronix III, with a larger ID for the two wires.

Thanks

HuntzNSam

[telriv]

If you install the MH unit you don't have to worry about replacing grommets or wiring, depending on their condition of course. And, it CAN be installed in the car on a "Nail". I've done it MANY times.

[Guest Prod1954]

Telriv. What MH unit are you referring to? Do you a link or part number?

[telriv]

Ed posted a link. Breakerless ignition

[Lapham3]

As he described well, I feel the same as Tom T as to liking a longer starter cranking time for oil delivery.   Dan   Mpls. Mn.

[telriv]

Going with any electronic ignition does NOT negate doing yearly maintenance as was done with a points set-up, which MANY didn't do when these cars were newer so points ignition got a bad rap. The distributor advance, weights, etc. all need to be lubricated/checked on at least a yearly basis. I had the same points, condenser, rotor, cap & coil for well over 250K & 40+ years. The same Hi-perf. Echlin kit my brother brought for me in '67 when I came home from Vietnam.  In that time I replaced the coil once, but never anything else. I would remove the points, clean & re-lube the rubbing block. NEVER filed the points. As luck would have it they were never pitted, just a blackish reside that came off with brake cleaner, meaning a perfectly matched condenser for my vehicle & ignition/electrical needs. I ran my plug gaps at .040"-.045" with the Bosch single platinum plugs, which have been in the car for over 10 years now. When the condenser went bad after 40+ years I had to constantly replace it with what's available today & they kept going bad on a regular basis. So I installed the M&H unit about 8 years ago because of this. Still the same cap, rotor & coil. I have opened my plug gaps up to .060". Doing this I had to also upgrade the plug wires to handle the wider plug gaps to 8mm. Switching to electronic DID NOT make the car run ANY better or increase fuel mileage or start any quicker. Points will wear/deteriorate over time, especially with the JUNK that's sold today, so they need to be looked at/attended to more often.

When I went to the ROA meet in Hearhsy in , I think 2000, people were amazed. I could reach into my car & start it WITHOUT touching anything else but the key. Some commented that it started as if it had fuel injection.

There's no secret to ANY of this other than regular/required maintenance.