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Still Back in a 64 again!!!! new tidbit


Dales90

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Hi again,

Well, if you saw my original thread some new info.

I crawled under the car to see if it could be posi, as it may have been a typical option of the dual quad KX cars.

Reached up to the drain plug, and wonder of wonders, the tin tag is still intact!!!

And if you remember, the orig owner removed the dual quad set up as the gas was eating him up, maybe a 3.42 was part of the issue??

More and more I see this as a time capsule

Dale

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Mike,

Yes, or if the owner was diligent enough to make sure such tags were maintained.

I have not yet pulled the seats. Have too much life going on, Son and grand kids visiting from two states away and a step son's wedding to plan for, but did get to the storage unit to lay on my back over the weekend.......

Still need to make sure it will make it to Branson......

Dale

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Tom,

I know there is a way, but I don't remember, to check the ratio, by turns of the axle vs shaft, or any codes that would tell the ratio.

Maybe that's why Mike asked if I'd found the build sheet, would it show the ratio?

Dale

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The `64 build sheets were very simple, much more so than the later sheets. There is a box for a code which represents the rear diff but one must have a "legend" to interpret the codes. I have one for the `66 cars a booklet which originally was a manual used by spot checkers involved with quality control at the Flint plant which serves as a legend. But I have found some errors in this manual so I dont consider it "Bible". But chances of finding a build sheet in a first gen Riv are very slim....and you dont need it to inspect the rear end.

Since you have a posi the procedure is very simple. Mark the backing plate and tire/rim in adjacent spots. Also make a mark on the driveshaft. Watch both the mark on the rim and the mark on the driveshaft while turning the rim. Count the number of times the driveshaft turns for ONE full turn of the tire/rim. This will be your ratio. So, if the driveshaft turns just a hair over 3 turns your ratio is 3:07. If it turns approxiamately 3 and 1/4 turns (3.25) your ratio is 3:23 to 1, etc...I`ll bet your rear gear is a 3:07. Good luck, let us know!

Tom Mooney

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According to the chassis manual, there should be two identifying stamps on the rear end. One is an X with a circle around it - that's the ID for the posi-trac - it's stamped on the flange of the differencial carrier (the part that contains the gears and bolts to the housing.) The other is some stamped numbers which would tell you the gear ratio. Those numbers are stamped on the housing itself. In the '64 manual it shows a 3 over a 2 and says that indicates a 3.23 ratio. The numbers are read vertically rather than horizontally. The manual does not give a list of numbers and the corresponding ratios. There are also some date numbers stamped on the housing. The picture shows them stamped in the conventional horizontal pattern. My scanner is on the fritz or I'd sent you a picture.

Ed

PS - From what I can remember, the available ratios for '64 were 3.07, 3.23, 3.42, 3.91, and 4.2?. There may also be one in the 3.5? range.

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Yeah, you have to do a different procedure if it is a posi. Easy to tell. Jack up the rear so both tires are off the ground with the car in neutral, spin a tire - if the other tire goes in the same direction it's a posi, if not it's open.

The link has both procedures outlined. I have to do it for my goat. I know it's a posi, but I don't know the ratio.

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Dale has identified the limited slip tag. Unless the clutch plates are completely shot both wheels should turn in the same direction. Sometimes the housings are stamped with a partial ratio and sometimes they are blank. Sometimes the "X" stamping is very, very light or not to be found at all. I`ve installed 3:42`s in 3:07 housings, 3:23`s in 3:42 housings, etc..so stampings can lead to incorrect assumptions. I recently inspected a true `65 GS, true low mileage car with all matching numbers, BS coded trans and a 3:07 rear end! No stamped characters on the housing. Best to check what is actually in the housing by inspecting the number of rotations.

Tom Mooney

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Dale here,

I will get a good clean view of the tag tomorrow evening, and hope it has info.

This car has not been tampered with, so I will trust the tag.

It is in a sotrage facility and too difficult to raise or spin rims at this time. Back at the garage it will be easier if the tag is not clear.

I'll let you know.

Dale

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Tom,

Right you are.

The tag states: USE LIMITED

SLIP DIFF.

FLUID ONLY

It could not see the "X" I have seen on other posi's. But undercoating, grime, rust, all add to a caked coating on the member.

One item of note, although the last person to remove the carrier plug kept the tag there, he did not mount it correctly.

I had a leak from the plug and when reinstalling, I put the fiber washer on last, and mated to the carrier surface, and the leak stopped........thanks mechanic, close but no cigar.

Will try to do the mark and spin method over the weekend.

Thanks all for helping fine tune my limited knowledge of limited slip

Dale

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Probably just a brake shoe slightly dragging. If you were able to turn it by hand it should present no problem. If you see smoke that is not induced by the go pedal coming from the rear wheels the next time you drive it you might want to back off the adjustment a hair. ;)

Tom Mooney

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Thanks guys, but I did realize my error.

The calculation was ok, it's a 3.07, but although I had both wheels off the floor, and the front wheels chocked during the raising of the car, I failed to put the car in neutral, I was fighting the gear in Park....why was I able to turn it at all???

Dale

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