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Window Regulator need help


38Buick 80C

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Attached is a photo of my window regulator for my 38 Buick. At the end of the "arms" of the regulator are rubber/fibrous washers 2 per arm. The one washer slides into the window track and the other washer is used to keep the track from rubbing the arm of the regulator.

Does anyone have a source for replacement rubber/fibrous washers?

I have checked

Bob's

Restoration Specialties & Supply

MSC

McMasterCarr

Grainger

Google AKA all of the internet.

The washers have an inside diameter of 7/16" and an outside diameter of approximately 7/8". Thickness is maybe 1/8" for the washer between the track and arm and 3/16" on the one inside the track.

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Bob,

Thanks for the response. Below is a simple drawing and some detailed photos. After closer inspection they are all identical not different thicknesses.

As far as quantity there are 16 total on my car - 2 per arm, 2 arms per regulator, 1 regulator per door, 4 doors. That said I am only missing ONE out of 16, but assuming they are not ridiculously expensive I would like to replace all 16.

Also note that it appears that the original method of manufacturing was to place these rubber/fibrous washers on the pin and the pin is then riveted to the arm. I say this for two reasons. 1. the original washer are not entirely rubber and do not stretch like rubber and removal will require them to be "torn off" as they will not stretch over the pin end. 2. Replacement washer WILL have to stretch over the end of the pin (0.66" diameter compared to a 0.4375" shaft)for installation as I do not have the means to detach and reattach the pin itself.

Let me know what you think. Thanks for the help.

BD

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Well there was to be no charge, Brian. But, I didn't look very closely at your post and thought you just needed some washers turned. Now that I look again you are correct in how the rollers were originaly made. The pin is, in effect, a rivit. I've replaced a number of regulator rollers on later GM cars but I had to make new pins and rivit them in place as the old pins are ruined in removal. A possible fix would be to punch new washers from 1/8" sheet rubber and stretch them over the pin but I'm honestly doubtful of sucess. Sorry for the false hope...........Bob

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Brian,

I've rebuilt quite a few of these in the past. You will have to grind the rolled/peened side of the rivet off. If I didn't have the right size leather washers in stock, I would order them from Mcmaster-Carr. You might not find the exact size, but you should get pretty close. Then after replacing the leather washers, you have to push the rivet back in and tack weld it, don't let it get too hot, you'll ruin the leather.

Feel free to contact me with questions or concerns.

Jason

Advanced Electrical Rebuilders

www.aerrebuild.com

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Thanks Bob. I'll try the punch method and cross my fingers. I only need one to work and the other 15 will just have to remain as is. They are in decent enough shape for being 70 years old. Also thank you for considering doing the other method complimentary even though it didn't work out, the thought is appreciated.

I'm curious...on the the later GM cars where you replaced the pin and riveted...were the pin and rivet separate pieces or one combined piece (like what original seems to be). Were the pins just turned on a lathe?

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Yup, just turned on a lathe. It'really just a shoulder pin with three diameters. The largest is the head, the middle section is the "axle" section, then it's stepped down to fit in the arm hole and peened/rolled over..............Bob

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Brian, this may not be of much help because I cannot remember who I purchased these from. They are leather washers made for this application - on my 36 Roadmaster. There are two different inside diameters required for each "pin". One is about 3/8" ID and the other is about 7/16" ID. Maybe I got the suppliers name from this forum? I just don't recall.

I ground off the back of the pin and punched it free. Then, I tapped the pin and installed a screw - yes I'm a bit concerned about it unscrewing and will probably tack weld it instead. At least you know someone out there makes these.

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