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thermostat for 37, fuel pump


pyrodork
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is there a thermostat and gasket i can get from a local store for my 37 plymouth sedan? i'm sure stant has to make one. the only other one i've found is from the andy biernbaum site... and that's $20! and apparently he doesn't even have gaskets, either. maybe someone can supply me with stant (or similar brand) part numbers that i can order from a local store.

also, the fuel pump. is there a rebuild kit for it? i'm not sure of the condition of mine since i haven't even tried to start the car yet (it's been sitting for 2 years and i just bought it). i'm sure i'll need a bowl gasket, but i guess that's fairly easy to find. plydo has new pumps for $75, but i'm putting enough money into it right now as it is. i've also heard that 6v electric fuel pumps are not recommended. opinions?

and what's a good way to clean out the fuel system before starting it? i'm already going to rebuild the carb and wash out the gas tank with fresh gas.

Edited by pyrodork (see edit history)
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Can you take the old one to the store and compare or at least, measure the opening where it goes? I did this once on an old Mercedes, a Dodge stat was not exactly the same size but close and it worked like a charm. Older Chrysler product, before about 1975, used a large diameter stat that is still available but may not be on the shelf. Did you ask the local parts store if they can get one for a 37?

Be careful you don't get one too hot. No more than 180 on your old non pressure system.

You can easily cut a gasket from a cardboard cereal box. A note paper punch is handy for the holes. Or if you want to be all fancy you can buy gasket material. The cardboard box works just as well.

Edited by Rusty_OToole (see edit history)
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I'm not positive, but I think the DeLuxe (P4) models in 1937 used a bypass type thermostat while the business (P3) may not. You'll know if you need the bypass version if there is a small hose between the thermostat housing and the water pump.

Not sure but I think the 160F bypass thermostat has a NAPA number of THM 55. See Plymouth Replacement Parts for what I know about Plymouth thermostats.

You can get fuel pump rebuilding kits from the Antique Auto Parts Cellar, also known as Then and Now Automotive.

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i have the p4, for sure. but i was wondering what that extra hose port was for. the one on my car has a plug on it. i can get pictures in a few days, probably.

also found a couple thermostats on ebay, but they end up being $20, too. and i'm still without a gasket.

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i have the p4, for sure. but i was wondering what that extra hose port was for. the one on my car has a plug on it. i can get pictures in a few days, probably.

also found a couple thermostats on ebay, but they end up being $20, too. and i'm still without a gasket.

I'm guessing that if you got the thermostat from NAPA it might come with a gasket. However pretty near every Plymouth from 1929 through at least 1948 used Chrysler part number 50082 for the "Cylinder Head Water Outlet Elbow Gasket". The NAPA number for that is THM 1040ST. Again, see: Plymouth Replacement Parts

But you can easily make that gasket if your local auto supply does not have it.

And you might want to click on search page for my database too. Its at Plymouth Replacement Parts and you can do things like type in "water gasket" to search for things I know about that have the term words "water" and "gasket" in them.

p.s. If your plans are to put the car back to something close to original, let me know and I'll pass on the contact phone number for the Plymouth Owners Club's technical advisor for the 1937 Plymouth. He happens to have a P4 two door sedan too. But he is not sympathetic to modifying cars so it would not do much good to talk to him if you will be making significant changes to the car.

Edited by ply33 (see edit history)
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my plans are to keep it as close to original as possible... while trying to add some of the options (like the radio - which i have bought on ebay) that the car didn't have from the factory. of course, a few things will have to be modified, but i want to keep it close to stock... unless the engine goes out completely and then i'll replace that with something newer and more horsepower... but for now, i want it as stock as possible.

i know for my studebaker, i can order the purchase order or whatever for my specific serial number and find out what the car was like when it came from the factory. is something like that available for these?

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Not sure but I think the 160F bypass thermostat has a NAPA number of THM 55. See Plymouth Replacement Parts for what I know about Plymouth thermostats.

i actually found your page on a google search last night. it says the part i need is 645494... but i don't know what that number means. i'm sure it's not a standard part number and it's specific to one brand or something. or was that the original part number? maybe go to a chrysler dealer to try to find it?

i've had good luck with carquest finding parts, but i haven't attempted them with the thermostat yet. autozone's service sucks, but they seem to have more parts than napa. although with napa, i get the military discount. the thing with carquest, though, is that you can't search for anything online. i'm finding fleet farm (probably a midwest chain) to be a good friend of mine. great prices, lots of parts... although you can't search for a specific vehicle online.

mostly, i'm trying to gather parts now for when i start working on it so i can get stuff done and get the car on the road without waiting forever for parts to arrive.

on that subject... with the fuel pump, i'm not sure if it'll need rebuilding or not, but i'm going to get a bowl gasket anyway. any tips on getting that cleaned out properly without removing it and soaking it in a chemical bath?

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Yes, I don't have a cross reference number for the 1937. But the thermostat housings were the same for years so I think the 1946-68 thermostat should work for you too.

You might want to consider rebuilding the fuel pump regardless. Modern gasoline additives are harmful to the life of older rubber materials. So the flex hose from the frame to the engine and the diaphragm in the fuel pump should be replaced with ones made from modern materials.

The basic design for the 1937 engine came out in 1933 with some fairly major changes in 1934 and 1935. From 1935 up to 1959 variations of that engine were used in cars. Apparently the swap from 1935 and up is basically bolt for bolt, just pull the old motor out and drop the newer engine in. The engine design was used until the early 1970s in industrial applications (pumps, fork lifts, airport tugs, etc.). Given a 40 year run it is pretty easy to find engine related parts at your local auto supply. Not that the specialty shops don't have their place, but I prefer to buy locally if I can. Helps keep my local auto supply in business. And my "local better auto supply" happens to be a CarQuest so I know they have a fair number of parts for my 1933 and by extension your 1937.

You can order the "build card" from Chrysler Historical and it will tell you how the car was shipped. But often the information on the cards is a bit scant of what you'd expect nowadays. See: http://www.ply33.com/Misc/buildcard

Edited by ply33 (see edit history)
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ok, this is what i have. i should be getting the car this weekend, so i can get better pics later.

but what's wrong with this picture? i have nothing to compare it to, and the service manual isn't as detailed as a current haynes. namely, the plug in the thermostat housing, the square plug on the top of the water pump, and the "adapter" for the white heater hose in the lower radiator hose. i have no idea, so anything helps.

i bought a complete rubber replacement lower radiator hose to replace the steel one, but the "adapter thingy" is part of the rubber hose, it looks like. is the heater hose supposed to connect to one of these other ports forementioned? most importantly, how do i make it work?

post-74472-14313852394_thumb.jpg

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ok, this is what i have. i should be getting the car this weekend, so i can get better pics later.

but what's wrong with this picture? i have nothing to compare it to, and the service manual isn't as detailed as a current haynes. namely, the plug in the thermostat housing, the square plug on the top of the water pump, and the "adapter" for the white heater hose in the lower radiator hose. i have no idea, so anything helps.

i bought a complete rubber replacement lower radiator hose to replace the steel one, but the "adapter thingy" is part of the rubber hose, it looks like. is the heater hose supposed to connect to one of these other ports forementioned? most importantly, how do i make it work?

The thermostat housing is setup for a bypass type thermostat but outlet for the short hose to the water pump has been plugged. There should be a fitting on the top of the water pump for a short hose to the thermostat housing. But I don't see the bolt holes for it on your pump. So maybe the pump was replaced with a not quite correct one. Given your current setup, I'd probably use a non-bypass type thermostat for the moment and then leave the heater valve (if so equipped) open to give some flow through the block before the thermostat opens.

The "thingy" on the inlet hose to the water pump is still manufactured and can be found in the truck heater parts section of one of the paper catalogs found in your "local better auto supply store". It was a pretty standard item used when putting a heater on a car in the old days. The top fitting on the water pump would be the later place to put the return hose. And maybe you could do that until you sort out the correct parts for the original bypass thermostat.

Looking through my on-line archive of photos I realize that I should have some photos of the engines, not just of the full cars. Need to add that to the things to do...

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different parts are not a surprise to me. it was a farmer's "drive around the farm" car. i know the carb is from a 38.

while i was making the rounds at carquest today, i asked them about that part that attaches to the hose. they were familiar, but said they don't have it and wouldn't be able to get it. they did show me the threaded hose connections for connecting the heater hose to the square-headed plug on top of the water pump (if i don't need to replace the water pump, should that be my permanent fix? ...if i can't find this hose adapter?). any idea what that part is called, or what i should ask the parts place to look for?

for the bypass hose, what would those connecting bolts look like on the correct water pump?

i went through your website last night and was pretty impressed at all the info on there. but you're right, i wish you had interior and engine pics in addition to the outside pics. it seems like everybody has hot rodded theirs, so pics of original equipment has been hard for me to find. i'd like to try that usb port project. also need to go over the info about wiring turn signals to the bucket brake lights. i just bought a turn signal with hazard switch on ebay and it's got most of the wires labeled, but not all of them. it was used, so i'm going to try to email someone who's selling the same kind new for that info (or is wiring it in as simple as it seems?). you've got a great site going on there.

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I've just sent out an email to a P4 owner who's car has scored well in the Plymouth Owners Club national judging to see if he has any photos that cover the engine compartment.

Regarding the heater hose connection, it has been about ten years since I bought mine and I don't recall the exact name and Internet searches are currently coming up dry for me.

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the thermostat housing bypass is plugged with a cork! haha.

an idea i had... with that port on the top of the water pump, could i just put a T on it and have one end go to the bypass port, and one end to the heater hose?

another idea... is that heater hose adapter transferable? meaning, is it possible i can remove it and install it on my new hose?

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the thermostat housing bypass is plugged with a cork! haha.

an idea i had... with that port on the top of the water pump, could i just put a T on it and have one end go to the bypass port, and one end to the heater hose?

Don't know, but it could work.

another idea... is that heater hose adapter transferable? meaning, is it possible i can remove it and install it on my new hose?

As long as it's not too corroded. There is a threaded nut like thing on the inside of the hose and it just screws together. In the 37 years I've had my 1933 I've had just two of them: The one that was on the car from the 1930s when I got it and the current one thats been on there about 10 or so years. Both have seen more than one set of hoses.

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Don't know, but it could work.

i don't see why it wouldn't. i don't know what the inside of the water pump looks like or how it exactly works, so that's my only hangup. if that top port has the same access as the lower radiator hose, i think that would be a much cleaner look.

As long as it's not too corroded. There is a threaded nut like thing on the inside of the hose and it just screws together. In the 37 years I've had my 1933 I've had just two of them: The one that was on the car from the 1930s when I got it and the current one thats been on there about 10 or so years. Both have seen more than one set of hoses.

it doesn't look in that rough of shape, but the T option might be easier and look better in the long run. i won't toss that adapter, though!

of course, provided i can find a T with the right connections and not too many adapters.

as far as the thermostat, i seem to only be finding one style, and it doesn't specify whether or not it's for bypass. the andy bernbaum site has them, but he's got his own part numbers for his stuff.

Edited by pyrodork (see edit history)
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here's pics of the thermostat i pulled out. on the radiator side, it says "standard thomson" and on the bottom of the spring, it says "patent pending, 180, 8-2".

the THM 55 part from napa...

https://www.napaautoparts.com/Catalog/Result.aspx?Ntt=THM+55&Ntk=Keyword&Nty=1&Dn=0&D=THM+55&Dk=1&Dp=3&N=0

...looks like it would probably work, but that part is 160 degree... and if that 180 means 180 degree, is that going to make a noticeable difference?

i've already got the housing gasket. there didn't seem to be a gasket between the thermostat and the housing. it fit snug.

as far as the housing, it only seems like there's a "shelf" between the bypass port and the radiator hose port. they both connect, but there's just like a half-moon thing in the middle. i can post a picture of that, too, but i already stuck it in the car and it's raining now.

please advise the best you can!

post-74472-143138532368_thumb.jpg

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