40 merc tires with 4" front end lowered help

[Guest 40mercFlathead]

I dropped the front end in my 40 merc 4" and now my tires don't have room to turn in the front fenders. Is this simply a get some smaller tires fix? I have fat whites and would like to keep them.

Here is a link to my album

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=293654&id=518356272&l=5f6f4ca8d7

Edited April 15, 2011 by 40mercFlathead (see edit history)

[Guest Jim_Edwards]

What sizes are the wheels and tires now on the car? Ya got some neat old speed equipment on that old flat head. Who produced the intake and heads?

Speaking from direct experience be very careful with creating any major angular difference in the attitude of the torque tube from stock, the results can be eating the ring and pinion gears.

Jim

Edited April 15, 2011 by Jim_Edwards (see edit history)

[Guest 40mercFlathead]

Thanks for the reply. The tire size reads H78 X 15, The are BF Goodrich Classic HT.

The car has been sitting in my father's garage for the past 35 years and I'm having it transported to my house this week to complete it. I wanted to try and figure out the front wheel situation asap so I can easily move it around. I need to put some things back together on it and re-do the wiring. Any suggestions on wiring would be greatly appreciated too.

Shawn

(661) 714-1584 cell

[Guest 40mercFlathead]

The intake is an Edelbrock 4 barrel from the 70's at least and I just purchased new heads "Sharpie"..and Fenton headers.

The carb is a Carter, I also need to find out if I should rebuild it or just buy a holley 390.

[Guest Jim_Edwards]

Thanks for the reply. The tire size reads H78 X 15, The are BF Goodrich Classic HT.

The car has been sitting in my father's garage for the past 35 years and I'm having it transported to my house this week to complete it. I wanted to try and figure out the front wheel situation asap so I can easily move it around. I need to put some things back together on it and re-do the wiring. Any suggestions on wiring would be greatly appreciated too.

Shawn

(661) 714-1584 cell

Of course I'm sure you know the car originally came with 6.00X16 tires, which I don't think if you have them available would solve the problem created by a 4" drop spindle. I think you have a huge problem that won't be solved with a smaller tire such as something like a P205XR15. You just won't lose that much in overall diameter which seems from the photos to be the most significant problem. If it were me and the original spindles were around I'd put them back on at least to get it moved, I don't expect there would be a clearance problem with the present tires if that were done. Beyond that, I think you'll have a tire clearance problem with any drop greater than 2" even if you were using the original 6.00X16s.

One thing is for sure, that old Flatty with those heads and a 4bbl intake should be quite a performer. My first car was a '47 Deluxe Coupe with a dual 2bbl Offy manifold, a mild cam, and milled heads. It ate quite a few OHV powered cars in it's day.

About the wiring you'll probably get more current advise from the Ford Flathead sites, but in case you don't Ron Francis Wiring is a premier reproduction wiring house. Just don't expect cheap for something that is 100% correct in every respect. Ron Francis Wiring

Jim

[Willys77]

Rhode Island Wiring and there are a couple more to "Firefox" or "google. Don't know about some of the Ford Suppliers, as well?

[Guest Bob Call]

Shawn

I see three problems with your tire clearence. First, a 4 inch drop is way too much for a stock bodied car, puts the wheels too high under the fenders. Second, H78 tires are way too fat for this car that was originally equipped with skinny 6:00-16's. Third, is your chrome "reversed" wheels. The offset outward of the "reversed" wheels puts the tires too close to the outside of the fenders. The cure you may not like. Get rid of the 4 inch drop axle and get a 2 inch drop. A 4 inch is for a fenderless rod. Get a set of stock offset 15 inch wheels. Get 195x75x15 tires for the front. This will still give you that "diegoed" stance you want. My late cousin had a 40 Ford with this set up and had no clearemce problem. I'll try to post a picture in this thread.

Subscribe to Rod & Custom and Street Rodder where you will find ads for Ron Francis Wireworks and other sthat can supply you a complete wiring harness.

If you are up to it rebuild the Carter to keep the period look. The Carburator King who posts on this site sometimes will have a rebuild kit or can rebuild it for you. Google The Carburator Shop in Missouri.

Edited April 19, 2011 by Bob Call (see edit history)

[Guest Bob Call]

Attempt to post link to photo of Jim Simpson's "40BCool"

<a href="http://s928.photobucket.com/albums/ad130/bobcall40/?action=view&current=40BCOOL.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i928.photobucket.com/albums/ad130/bobcall40/40BCOOL.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

[Guest Bob Call]

Shawn

I can't let this go. Those reversed wheels screw up the front end geometry and they place undue stress on the wheel bearings. Look at Jim's 40BCool. It has reversed wheels on the back with fat tires but stock offset on the front with skinny 195x75x15 tires.

[19tom40]

I can't tell if that is a 12V or 6V battery. If it is 6V, it should be POS ground. If you want stock wiring and use the stock gauges with 6V battery, Ron Francis, Rhode Island and Narragansett are all reliable suppliers of original wire harnesses.

The current issue of the V-8 Times cites research by one of its members that says there are only 30 1940 Mercury Sedan Coupes left. I would hope that you would take this into consideration before you make any changes to the car. These cars look great in when kept in original condition.

[keiser31]

I can't tell if that is a 12V or 6V battery. If it is 6V, it should be POS ground. If you want stock wiring and use the stock gauges with 6V battery, Ron Francis, Rhode Island and Narragansett are all reliable suppliers of original wire harnesses.

The current issue of the V-8 Times cites research by one of its members that says there are only 30 1940 Mercury Sedan Coupes left. I would hope that you would take this into consideration before you make any changes to the car. These cars look great in when kept in original condition.

Nice shot at Greenfield Village!

[Guest 40mercFlathead]

Thank you guys for the replies. I apologize for the late reply, I wasn't getting email notification of the new posting. My Mercury has been transported and the tire clearance is not rubbing but extremely close, and probably will when the family is riding.

Bob Call : I think I may have to get the smaller tires for the front like you were explaining. For now I have removed the front clip so I can put the clutch in and start driving it "naked" so I can show that flathead off until I have the wheel clearance issue fixed.

As for the wiring, I didn't see your posts until I already purchased an entire wiring setup from "Little Dearborn" in MN. It sounds like the wiring looks pretty period correct and even has the cloth cover.

I do have a question about my generator in relation to my carb set up and the radiator hoses. It seems that my upright generator is in the way of any carb even the old carter? Do these offset generator brackets really do the trick?

Any help is greatly appreciated. Feel free to call my cell on the above post if you want to donate some old school knowledge I'm only 30 yrs. old and learning from scratch.

[Guest 40mercFlathead]

I converted the generator to 12V but left the starter 6V

[Guest Bob Call]

Shawn

Having changed a goodly number of transmissions in 48 and earlier Ford products, I can tell you that removing the front clip to work on the clutch is a lot of extra work. 1) Raise the rear of the car and properly support it in jack stands. 2) Get under the car. Snuggly place support under the engne oil pan like 4x4's. 3) Disconnect the clutch linkage from the throwout shaft. 4) Disconnet the shift linkage. 5) Disconnect the drive torque tube from the rear of the trans by removing the four bolts holding the 2 piece cover connecting the torque tube to the transmission. 6) Remove the two rear trans support bolts. 7) Disconect the rear spring anchor bolts from the center of the rear frame crossmember. 8) Remove the shock absorbers from the rear axle. 9) Disconnect the brake line where it connects to the tee block on the rear axle. 10) Disconnect the parking brake cable. 11) Get out from under the car and raise the car enough for the spring to clear the crossmember and floor. 12) Reposition the jack stands to support the car. 13) Grasp a rear tire and roll it backwards until the rear axle and torque tube move back enough for the u joint to disconnect from the drive shaft and about another 10 inches. 14) Place a support under the torque tube to keep it off of the floor or ground. 15) Back under the car. Place a temp support under the trans. 16) Remove the cap screws securing the trans to the engine block. 17) With the trans supported on a trans jack or your belly, slide it back until the input shaft slides out of the clutch disk. 18) Move the trans out of the way. 19) Remove cap screws securing the clutch pressure plate assembly to the flywheel. The whole assembly will fall to the floor. 20) While apart, replace the throwout bearing. Check the play of he throwout shaft in the trans case. If there is play, the bushings in the trans case should be replaced. 21) Check the cluth pressure plate with a straight edge to be sure it is flat. If not, replace the pressure plate assembly with a new or rebuilt unit. 22) Check the contact face of the flywheel. If it is scored it should be removed an taken to an auto machine shop for resurfacing. 23) Get a new friction disk and an old trans input shaft. Use the shaft to center and hold the friction disk on the flywheel. (Since old Ford trans parts aren't plentiful like they were back in my day, you can buy a plastic clutch disk installation tool). 24) Slip the pressure plate assenbly over the input shaft and hold it to the flywheel and install the capscrews to secure it to the flywheel. 25) Remove the input shaft. 26) Beginning with step 18, perform each step in reverse until you are finished. After you have done this a number of times, and you are an 18 year old car nut, you can do this in under 2 hours. REMEMBER TO BLEED THE BRAKES!

If you have the correct generator and manifold the generator mounts on the front center of the manifold between the heads. Dual carb manifolds made for Ford and Merc through 48 have the carbs offset to the rear for generator clearence. If yours does not clear, you have the wrong generator. Or if it does not have a generator mounting cast in at the front the manifold is for 49 through 53 Ford and Merc. If this is your situation you may try the generator and brackets for the 49 through 53.

Edited April 30, 2011 by Bob Call (see edit history)

[Guest Bob Call]

I left out step 6A. Disconnect the speedometer cable from the torque tube fitting.

[19tom40]

Bob Call's procedure works if you have the 9" clutch. If you have the 10" clutch, it is easier to pull the engine as the oil pan has to be removed in order to remove the pressure plate bolts.

When you install the pressure plate, use wooden wedges to relieve the pressure on the clutch disc. This will prevent warping the pressure plate. A warped pressure plate will cause more than the usual clutch chatter.