mjames 10 Posted April 2, 2011 Hello all, I just spent the winter rebuilding the straight 6 engine in my 52 chrysler windsor and when i went to try and start it yesterday i got nothing. I am pretty sure there is no spark. My question is this,i know the ignition system runs as a 6v positive ground but since i replaced the original 6v coil with a 6v coil from a different vehicle that is a negative ground i am wondering if there is a difference. does the original chrysler coil work any differently than the new one i put on. Meaning is the original coil the same as my new one as long as they are both 6v and i followed the correct wiring that is needed? Or do i need a coil that is specific for a positive ground, to get spark? Thank you,Mike Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Albert 0 Posted April 2, 2011 there is no difference , if you run - gnd you hook the - of the coil to the breaker points, if your running + gnd, the positive of the coil is hooked to the points,, Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rusty_OToole 1,536 Posted April 3, 2011 Albert is correct, just wire the coil "backwards" and it will be fine. In fact, the coil will still work if wired "forwards" ( backwards for your car). It won't have quite as good a spark but it will still make a spark. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mjames 10 Posted April 3, 2011 Thank you Albert and Rusty, thats what i thought but just wanted to double check. I can eliminate that as a cause for no spark,so now i can look for other sources. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mjames 10 Posted April 4, 2011 I need help again, i still have no spark, i tried 2 different condensers and a new set of points. I have tested the coil and it does have current when ignition is on. Am i missing a ground somewhere? I have checked,re-checked and checked all the wiring,everything is hooked up according to the wiring diagram in the manual. I have checked and traced all wiring for ignition for breaks and shorts. Anybody have any ideas? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rusty_OToole 1,536 Posted April 5, 2011 1st test. Is power getting to the points? Use a 12 volt test light. With ignition on, you should have power at the coil (both sides) and at the points (live side). When the points close power should flow through. When you open the points you should get a spark from the coil. You can connect a spark plug wire direct to the coil and observe the spark at the plug. Lay the plug on the engine so it grounds.Cars in storage often get a white "fur" on the points. Clean it off with a shot of contact cleaner, electronic contact cleaner and drag a piece of white paper between the points. Or use very fine 600 wet or dry sandpaper or finer.Once you get the coil firing you should be able to put everything back together and get spark at all cylinders. Clean the inside and outside of the distributor cap and don't forget to put the rotor in.Any more problems report back with the results of above tests. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
karkrazy 10 Posted April 5, 2011 Make sure the wire running thru the distributor body in not shorting out. Check the condition of the insulation and the insulating washers. Once had this problem and that was the culprit. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JACK M 1,544 Posted April 5, 2011 I had a cracked rotor once that drove me crazy. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mjames 10 Posted April 5, 2011 Thank you Rusty, karkrazy and Jack, it was the ground wire in the distributor...Something so simple driving me crazy. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rusty_OToole 1,536 Posted April 5, 2011 Usually is something simple once you go to work and find it. Glad your Chrysler is back in commission. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
