'36 President oil filter revisited.....

[Batwing-8]

First, Thanks to those who responded to my earlier posting regarding the issue of the oil filter cartridge for a ’36 President.

Now, a second "question" has arisen: After driving the car, and letting it sit for a couple days, I removed the cover on the oil filter canister to check on the condition of the canister filter. The cartridge had obviously been in contact with oil, but now the canister was completely empty. Lifting the cartridge revealed no oil inside the cartridge or the canister.

As a "test," I then hand-poured about a cup of oil into the canister (no filter in). In just a minute or two, the oil had drained completely out through the bottom hole. If the canister empties itself, this means it must be refilled by the oil pump when the car is started, which would suggest there will be a period of time when filtering is not provided.

This leads me to believe that perhaps NONE of the FILTERED oil goes directly to the bearings, but is simply dumped back into the crankcase. Is this correct, or am I missing something here??? Thanks, Bill.

[drdon]

I guess I am thinking "what difference does it make if the filtered oil goes 'directly to the bearings' or if it is simply filtered so that all of the oil is filtered oil"? Filtered oil is filtered oil, and if it is what is going through the system then it is cleaned. Hmm. Maybe I just think too simply. Help us out experts. (PS I note a 3?-37 filter available on eBay today. A little high$$, but they are rare.)

[Guest studepeople]

I agree with "drdon" that filtered oil is better than non filtered oil. On the earily 8's the supply to the filter is straight off the main oil galley.Then goes thru the filter and into the pan thru the side of the block. I wish my oil filter canister would completely drain like " batwing 's" but there is about a third oil left inside.

[dictator27]

Bill

Your car has a "bypass" or "partial flow" oil filter on it. All cars used this system at that time. Only about 1/3 of the oil is filtered at any given time. After filtering it goes directly to the oil pan.

Terry

[Batwing-8]

Perhaps I'm guilty of over-analysis on this, and would be better-off to just go work on the car!

I assumed any oil used to lubricate the motor was filtered before being directed to moving parts. But apparently that's not the case. That said, it seems to me there is a difference between sorta-filtered oil and fully-filtered oil.

As the engine runs, metalic particles are worn-off parts such as timing chain and gears, piston rings , cylinder walls etc. This "contaminated oil" drains into the crankcase where it mixes with "clean" oil sent from the oil filter. (This explains that my filter canister empties itself because it's draining into the pan).

The oil pump then sends that "mix" to lubricate the engine. With this system, some metal residue, including debris from the oil pump itself, gets sent to moving parts without microscopic filtering. Perhaps this helps explain why many cars during the '20s and '30s were ready for an engine rebuild after fifty or sixty thousand miles!

Guess this means that frequent oil changes are even more important on vehicles of this vintage. Bill.

[dictator27]

Perhaps this helps explain why many cars during the '20s and '30s were ready for an engine rebuild after fifty or sixty thousand miles!

Guess this means that frequent oil changes are even more important on vehicles of this vintage. Bill.

Bill

The recommended oil change interval on my 27 Dictator without a filter was 500 miles, with a filter 1000. For your 36 probably 1000/3000. Frequent oil changes were the order of the day.

Bypass systems were in use until at least the late '50s. Studebaker didn't have full flow oil filters until late 1962. A new early 62 Stude could be ordered without a filter, interval 1000 miles.

Terry

[Batwing-8]

Terry; thanks. Good information! Bill.

[drdon]

I remember 1000 miles as the cut off for oil change. I can't remember about

filter replacement. I have a lube chart of my Dad's somewhere- if I find it I will

post the recommendations. Oh yes, it was 1000 for the lube job too, as well as a little finger dip check of the tranny and differential. Always use a chart Dad said, since there were some well hidden grease fittings (clutch release lever for one, water pump for another) that would escape your eye if you were just doing suspension and steering. (What the heck does this have to do with clean oil?) Happy April Fool's Day to all.

[Batwing-8]

Talk about hidden.....: The lube-point for the driveline slip-joint on this car is a tapped, tapered hole into which is screwed a tapered, flush-fitting slotted screw. Apparently a zerk fitting was too "massive" and would unbalance the driveshaft.

So, you unscrew the screw, install a zerk, lube, remove the zerk and re-install the flush screw. IF the driveline stops with this flush screw on the topside, it wouldn't be visible. Easy to miss if you aren't referencing a chart!

[studeboy]

Such flush screws were common pratice in many drive line applications at one time.