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Firewall Grommits


Guest zazothex

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Guest zazothex

I'm stripping and sanding my engine compartment on the '48 Connie, and am wondering if anyone has any idea about the screw inserts -whether they can be removed, replaced, or should I just be extra careful around them 'cause they're impossible to replace. I'm referring to those grommet-like metal inserts that the hinges screw into -they look like rivets in the engine side, while on the cab side are thicker and round, with a single flat edge.

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Guest zazothex

Thanks Tom. Currently, I'm just sanding with stripping pads, so I still have to be a bit careful. I wish I had the time and resources to blast (or dip) the whole thing. I'm thinking about taking as much as possible off with the grinder/drill and maybe getting one of those cheap-o Harbor Freight blasters to get the corners and nooks I can't reach otherwise. I appreciate the pics you've posted -they give me something to compare to.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Thanks Tom. Currently, I'm just sanding with stripping pads, so I still have to be a bit careful. I wish I had the time and resources to blast (or dip) the whole thing. I'm thinking about taking as much as possible off with the grinder/drill and maybe getting one of those cheap-o Harbor Freight blasters to get the corners and nooks I can't reach otherwise. I appreciate the pics you've posted -they give me something to compare to.

Watch out dipping the body. supports are aluminum and I've heard some dipping melts them. I've always used aircraft stripper it will remove the original ford primer. Cheap stripper is only good for repainted surfaces and I've stipped all paint with about 5 gallons and about a week in the evenings let the stripper do the work. I just bought one of Harbor freight blasters. I'll let you know how it works on my 42 Connie. Waldren

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Guest zazothex

Please do. I'm thinking about just one of those 20Gal hoppers, unpressurized. I have a coupon so I can pick it up for ~$25, plus the $7 bag of black magic from Tractor Supply. The stripper may be a good idea, I am a bit worried about getting the residue off so the epoxy primer won't lift eventually.

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Please do. I'm thinking about just one of those 20Gal hoppers, unpressurized. I have a coupon so I can pick it up for ~$25, plus the $7 bag of black magic from Tractor Supply. The stripper may be a good idea, I am a bit worried about getting the residue off so the epoxy primer won't lift eventually.

I have stripped 6or 7 Lincolns in the 60's and 70's we washed them down with lacquer thinner and never had any problem with primer or paint This new formular paints may be different but a bodyman would know Lee

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Just a suggestion about the body and stripping it to bare metal. According to the OC Rich Lincoln book, the primer used on the Lincolns back then was tough as nails. If you color is original and the paint hasn't blistered from underneath, I would be sorely tempted to leave the original primer on the car then primer over it with your epoxy. A DA sander will get you where you need to be as far as removing the color.

I blasted my body myself and though I was very careful with the pressure and angle, it still caused me many many extra hours of block sanding to get the body back into condition to paint due to some warping of the metal.

Tom

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Guest zazothex

Good to know. Unfortunately (or fortunately, depending on how you look at it) the only thing left on nearly all my '48 is rust. Scraping the remaining rock-solid undercoating takes everything off down to the (brownish) metal. Luckily, almost all of it is still solid. At least I don't have to worry about babying the primer. It's from scratch for me. I'm planning on hand sanding as much as possible with the grinder and the like before I blast, as I'm just as concerned about warping. The sand is just going to be for the nooks and crannies.

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