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Reap drivers power window question


Guest mtn

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Hi all. I was out driving in the great Missouri weather last week and tried rolling down the rear driver window and nothing happened. I am going to start by checking the switches but I'm guessing both of them are not bad. So how bad is it to get to the motor ? What all will I need to remove? Any suggestions on what else it could be I cant hear the motor running so......

Thanks for any input

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Hey mtn, I'm doing the same thing on my '65.

They are a pain in the you-know-what to get out. It took me a couple hours to get one side out, now I'm stuck. I can't figure out how to re-install the whole setup.

I've got a '65 body manual coming, so hopefully that will shed some light on the subject.

I'll be watching this thread as well. Wish I had more info to share.

Later,

Mike

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I forgot, you can check the motors by disconnecting the switch and applying 12v to the wire socket. The motor is grounded. The socket kinda looks like a clover leaf and the right and left wires are 12v + up or down. I can't remember which is which, but you can hear the motor run either way. Do that before you go to the trouble of removing the motor.

Mike

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A really quick way to check to to see if the motor is getting current but the motor is stuck is, with the motor off, open a door and watch the dome lights. If you try to roll the window up or down and watch the dome light. If the light dims when you hit the window switch, current is getting to the motor. The excess draw of a stuck motor will cause the dome light to dim.

Ed

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  • 3 years later...
Guest 1963 Riviera
A really quick way to check to to see if the motor is getting current but the motor is stuck is, with the motor off, open a door and watch the dome lights. If you try to roll the window up or down and watch the dome light. If the light dims when you hit the window switch, current is getting to the motor. The excess draw of a stuck motor will cause the dome light to dim.

Ed

HI ALL.

MY 63 Rear Window (L) has stopped working. But in my case, the switches (master and dedicated) are not dimming the dome lights.. Where should I start. The last thing I remember was closing the both windows together.

Always appreciate your help.

Nick

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Intermittent, or non-operating power window problems can also be caused by broken, or fractured wiring inside the door rubber conduit sleeves.

The pw wiring harness gets brittle with age (...just like people), and can break, or fracture from the constant flexing from the opening, and closing of the drivers door.

This can cause intermittent, or non-operation of any window from the master switch. Poor chassis ground at any of the power window motors can also cause non-operation too.

Start by checking for +12V DC at the master switch, and proceed from there.

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Widow motors rarely fail....it's almost always switch, wiring or ground problems, or stuck mechanisms...doesn't make it much easier, especially in the rear, but at least you might not have to buy a motor. If the motor works but the window is stuck, you should be able to hear something when you try to open it. Also be sure to see if it works with the rear switch if you haven't already. My rt rear will lower from the drivers switch & the passenger switch, but can only be raised with the drivers switch. Go figgur. Also, here's a a tip given me by one of the Riv tech supports years ago....All my 65s windows were either slow or sketchy. I was really dreading getting in there to clean up the mechanisms.... he suggested I get 4 cans of WD-40 and, using the tubes & whatever openings I could find, empty a can into each window compartment (windows up, of course),aiming it all around to be sure to coat everything as much as possible. My windows practically fly up & down now. I'm pretty sure nothing's going to rust in there either,since I repeat the procedure every year..(the smell goes away after a couple of days)....try it you'll like it! Drew

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My drivers side stopped working a couple of years ago. First thing I did was buy a new motor, assuming that had to be the problem. while asking for tips on installation I was informed by Dick, Ed, or some other old timer that he had never seen a motor fail, that I should check everything else first. At the time, I didn't have the expertise to check it like a good electrician. But I dismantled the switch & cleaned it, and examined the wiring as much as possible. At some point prior to my ownership someone had replaced the switch & connector so every wire had been cut & rewrapped. I found no obvious defects & could not track down the problem. I was very disheartened. The next day, after having tried it repeatedly the day before, it just started working perfectly, & has ever since. Whuuut? Does anybody think this will come back to haunt me? Probably. Drew

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I just did all 4 windows. I used electrical contact spray cleaner on all the switches and racked them all back and forth many times and I did the spray and rocking several times. I removed the outside metal door skin, if nothings rusty that a 10 min or less job. I like Justice Bros. products so I used they spray can oil on every joint then I took a flux brush dipped in lithium grease and coated all the tracks. Connected the battery and run the windows up and down from all switches. I did that on all 4 and now they all work like new. I had a bad mechanical vent window gear and I replaced that unit as well. Since I am doing everything I also removed the inside panel and with both off adjusted everything. I had a rusted fast door latch I removed that soaked it in wd40 for 2 days and carefully worked it loose and reinstalled everything. If I include the time I took to replace the wood panels and arm rests it was a total of about 40 hrs for all.

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HI ALL.

MY 63 Rear Window (L) has stopped working. But in my case, the switches (master and dedicated) are not dimming the dome lights.. Where should I start. The last thing I remember was closing the both windows together.

Always appreciate your help.

Nick

Nick,

Have a helper hold the rear window switch in the down position and slam the door on that side, see what happens...frequently the commutator on the window motor is covered with corrosion or brush dust and fails to provide enough contact to get the motor moving. Slamming the door may jiggle it into making contact. This is not a "fix" but may get the window working again. If you cycle the windows thru several up and down cycles it might clean the commutator enough to become serviceable.

Tom Mooney

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