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No signal lights, DOH!


Guest NikeAjax

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Guest NikeAjax

Okay, I have no signal lights on my '56 Century. This is after taking apart the signal switch and putting it back together while rebuilding the steering column. I checked the continuity of the wires from the switch to the fuse-block, and I'm 95% sure I put them back in the right place. It has a new flasher, even though the old one was working before I started, oh and he fuse is good too. Criminitly, what could be the problem!

Jaybird

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Guest Jim_Edwards
The flasher.............Bob

Yup! Gotta be the exactly correct flasher and especially not one of those supposedly one fits all solid state flashers.

Jim

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Do the brake lights work, if you turn left or right on the level do the brake light go out,if not I think the problem is at the switch on the steering column.Are you sure that the direktional signal switch on the steering colum is in the right possition,it`s a small plastic stick(peg) who needs to follow the level when turn right or left.

Leif in Sweden.

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Guest NikeAjax

Tusen takk Leif! I just put a test light between the X & L terminals of the fuse block, and with the ignition turned on the light didn't burn; it should light up, no? If I pull, yet again, the signal switch, what should I look for? How do I go about making sure it's making contact? I really don't think the contacts could go in other than the way I have them. For instance, with the switch assembled, which wires should I put together with my continuity tester between?

As for the color diagram: being a dyslexic graphic artist, my eyes just can't track all those lines reliably: I scanned the shop manual and in Adobe Photshop at 200dpi and painstakingly traced ALL the lines in that portion. One day I'll do the whole thing.

Jaybird

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Guest NikeAjax

BTW, the flasher isn't one of the transistor type, it's a three prong aluminum bodied, it looks like a vacuum tube, so yes it is the right type, and thanks EVERYONE for your input, not just Leif, it's just that I know a few words in Swedish. Sorry if it sounded like I was snubbing the rest of you all!

Jaybird

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Jaybird,I don`t think you can measure between X=+ and L on the fuse block,you need to put one side of you test instrument on earth,(body or chassie)I don`t think there are any earth on the fuse block.It`s importent that left and right brake lights work when push the pedal,if it works,still push on the pedal, turn the level on right and the right brake light will not shine,if turn the level to the left the left brake light will not shine.You can do that test with or without the flash relay.If that don`t work you wiring are wrong,or the switch on the steering colum don`t work.

(Tack=Swedish,Takk=Norwegian-Denmark)

I hope anyone else can explaine you problem better than I can do.

Leif in Sweden.

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Guest NikeAjax

Leif, if you're saying what I think you're saying, then the whole thing is dependent on the braking system's wiring circuit?!?!?!??! If so, I had a feeling about that, but couldn't understand why they'd do it that way, SIGH! As a matter of fact I just put in a new power brake unit, and have yet to bleed the brakes...

Jaybird

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Jaybird I understand it`s difficult to understand what I wrote,my English is to bad but I try anyway.If you are looking at the new picture you will see the red parts,that`s the part of the switch that disconekting the left or right brake lamps when you turn the level up or down(right or left).A very common system on US cars in those days.

Leif in Sweden.

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Guest NikeAjax

I agree, I couldn't get that far in Norsk, which has a lot in common with Svenska, hence my spelling "thank you" wrong for your language...

It looks as though if I put a tester between any two of the three wires that you have circled I should have continuity, those on my color diagram being the dark green, light green and white, or by yours, the three center right; does this sound correct?

Thanks,

Jaybird

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Yes ,But you have to press on the brake pedal to have 12volt on those wires.If looking at the 3 diagram you will see the differens when turn right or turn left on the level ,and how the rear brake lights, right or left will be disconected.

It`s importent that this is alright,if not it will be very hard to fix your turn signal.

Leif in Sweden.

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Guest NikeAjax

Ummmm, I do have head and tail lights when I pull the switch; I have yet to try the brake lights. I'm trying to get them bled today. My running lights don't work, this is par for the course, correct?

Jaybird

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Sorry don`t understand what you mean this time,you say you have head(front) and tail(rear) lights when pull the switch,that has nothing to do with your turn and brake lights.What do you mean with running lights don`t work?. I thought the running lights was the head lights.

If you press the brake pedal with the key ON, do the brake lights shine,If not you need to check the wires.

Leif in Sweden

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Guest NikeAjax

homer_simpson_doh_02.gif

Oh boy, sorry, you're English is better than mine this time!:)

I meant parking lights, not running lights, DOH!

Jaybird

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Leif, if you're saying what I think you're saying, then the whole thing is dependent on the braking system's wiring circuit?!?!?!??! If so, I had a feeling about that, but couldn't understand why they'd do it that way, SIGH! As a matter of fact I just put in a new power brake unit, and have yet to bleed the brakes...

Jaybird

I don't know as much as any of those posting above. However, a question arose in my mind; Could air air in the brake system prevent the brake lights' switch from working?:confused::o

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Guest NikeAjax

James, I could be wrong, but I don't believe so. The hydraulic brake light switches used in our cars have a highly sensitive membrane switch and doesn't take much pressure to activate, it's very similar to what they use on ATM key pads if that makes sense to you?

Jaybird

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James, I could be wrong, but I don't believe so. The hydraulic brake light switches used in our cars have a highly sensitive membrane switch and doesn't take much pressure to activate, it's very similar to what they use on ATM key pads if that makes sense to you?

Jaybird

Absolutely! About 10 years ago; I went through 2 brake light switches before I got one that continued to work (the third is still working).

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Jay

Although the brake light wires go through the turn sig switch, they DON'T have to be working for the turn sigs to work. The three terminals on the flasher are 1.power 2.pilot (the light on the dash that tells you what direction your turning) and 3. load

The mickey mouse test is to connect the load wire to the power wire, flip the lever and see if the front and rear bulbs light. they won't flash, they should just glow. If they don't is is NOT the flasher, its your bulbs, ground or your turn signal unit.

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Guest NikeAjax

Bill, if the steering column isn't grounded properly, that would keep the signals from working, correct? The copper dingus broke that goes between the column and steering box and I made a new one: so if'n I didn't install it correctly, that would cause this whole effen problem, right? Oh geez, I hope so, I'm getting sick of playing with this...

Jaybird

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Guest NikeAjax

To quote Porky Pig, "Oh, bu-da-boy!"

It was those (expletive-deleted) bearings! The (expletive-deleted) manual isn't at all clear as to how they go back in, (expletive-deleted)! I didn't see how they came out, as it all came falling out, and I was lucky to catch all the parts, so I was guessing that they went on the contact dimples, they go on the back of the (expletive-deleted) contact switch, SIIIGH!

Thanks all,

Jaybird

Bill did your driveway stay put?

porky2.jpg

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I don't konw if this relates to your problem or not but, I had a problem with my 58 buick turn signals and traced it to a bad connection in the lamp housing itself my buick has a single wire going to turn signal ant it uses the the frame ground to complete the circuit, I had a bad connection at the lamp scoket, I found cleaning and scraping the inside of the scoket fixed the problem.

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