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For all those of you out there in the know...is it necessary to completely remove the gas tank in order to replace the fuel pump and sending unit?

I have some ramps so I'm able to get the rear end up a couple of feet off the ground. I'm just worried about the filler neck leaking after removal and reinstallation.

Any help/pointers for this repair would be greatly appreciated.

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I repalced my fuel pump a few months back. The most difficult part was the filler neck. The tank will not come all the way down until the filler neck is removed from the tank. It is a very tight fit and I think that using ramps will only give you less room to work. I used jack stands both front and back.

It was about a 5 hour job for me. I used some light oil on the rubber seal at the tank end of the filler neck and it went in very easy.

Good luck

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If you remove the filler neck attachment bolts from the body where the gas cap is, and remove the tire on that same side, and lower the tank on a jack a few inches, it is possible to twist the neck as you slide it from the tank. I elected to replace the rubber grommet and found it was available from the dealer (ordered and took a week) for about $10, in my opinion well worth the $. Be very careful routing the internal hose in the tank or your fuel gauge sender may be unable to operate properly. Ask me how I know this.

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Thanks for the heads up. I will make sure to order the filler gasket.

Any more sage advice out there in the ether? I have a bad habit of doing these types of repairs a couple of times before I get it right....something I'd rather avoid on this one.

Thanks in advance

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  • 6 months later...

Has anyone experienced cut out on left hand turns after having relaced the fuel pump? I initially thought that my newly replaced pump was bad and warrantied it out. When I give it gas in a left hand turn, the car bucks and cuts out - then picks back up when I straighten out. Right turns and straight driving is great...I keep thinking sending unit?

I have taken this to a mechanic to replace the pump and they are doing all they can and now think that it has something to do with the baffles in the tank. Makes no sense to me since the car never had problems until the pump was replaced. The fuel pressure is fine, but drops out on the left turn. I would be greateful to hear from anyone with a similar experience?

I was wondering if the sending unit needs to be replaced too? - this is my deduction but I do not want to throw parts at the car to find out that this is not the case.

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sending unit should not affect the pump operation. Is it possible a power supply wire is chaffed and shorting as the body shifts on left turns? Was the tank completely removed and cleaned out? Most likely a wiring issue and might be able to confirm this by hooking up test meter to the power wire at the pump and driving car to make it fail and see if voltage drops off during left turns.

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Thank you for the help - this was done at the mechanic's shop - the tank was not removed the first go, but was on three follow up visits. I am not certain if it was cleaned - I am hoping they did - but will have to confirm. I am pretty sure they did. THe tank was dropped again after the replacement pump failed and was warrantied out. I will test out the voltage on the pump to see if it is a possilbe short. Strange that this would only happen after the fuel pump was replaced. Seems that between 1/2 and 1/4 tank is where this is happening - and yet not at all with full to 1/2 tank.

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That almost guarantees that it's a fuel starvation issue at the pump inside the tank - with more than a half tank, the pump is never above the level of the fuel even in turns and doesn't suck air. I haven't ever changed out a fuel pump in mine - is it possible that the pickup location on the pump can be installed pointing up instead of downward in the tank? That would make it more suceptable to becomig uncovered...

Jim

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I agree that if problem only happens below 1/2 tank issue must be with pump pickup. I have replaced the pump in a 90 TC and dropped the tank and cleaned it. While it is possible to install the pump incorrectly so that the pickup is not toward the bottom of the tank it would require more than the usual degree of dumbassery to do this. Was your shop upset that the first pump failed and they did this on purpose? Might be wise to try someone else and have them document (photograph?) what they find. If the pump is installed wrong I would demand that the first shop pay for the fix. Best of luck.

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  • 1 year later...

Hello Pizzaman, I may have to replace the fuel pump on my 89 tc. Before doing it, my service manual says to release the fuel system pressure by following certain steps which I'm having trouble fully understanding ( see my post of a few days ago). Did you release the fuel system pressure following these steps? I was wondering if the pressure could be released by simply loosening one of the fuel line connections. Would appreciate any info you can provide regarding this situation.

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You can release the pressure by loosening a supply side fuel line but engine should be cold if possible and use a rag to catch any fuel which leaks. Many engines have a "test port" to check fuel pressure and these can be used to relieve fuel pressure, but not the TC. Many cars also have a removable access panel in the trunk floor to make fuel pump changes much easier, but again not the TC. This job is not an easy one so use care and notice exactly how wires and fuel ines are routed. Good luck. For me, the third time was the charm.

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