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Just Bought a 1925 Touring!


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Hi, I just purchased my first ever antique auto; a 1925 Dodge touring car :D. I've always been interested in the early history of the automobile and finally took the plunge. The car is complete with the exception of top irons/bows but it will need a lot of work to get it in good running condition. I will post some pics as soon as I get some decent ones. In the meantime, I have a question about the seat pedestals. The engine serial number indicates a 1925 manufacture (I haven't checked any other locations). Unlike some of the photos I've come across in this forum, the seat pedestals are not made of wood. They are integral sheet metal structures of the car. Does anyone know about when this change occurred? Also, the running boards and running board aprons are in pretty rough shape. Any ideas where I might look for good used pieces?

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Welcome and congrads. on your new car. I have a 23 touring and I also live in CT

I would suggest you join the Dodge Brothers Club. Our tech advisors are great.Many post answers on this Forum. We also have a National meet every year. In 2012 it's in Southbury CT.

If you want to talk send me a PM and I'll send you my Phone #

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Welcome to the Dodge Brothers wold.

Call us at 888-827-7601 for a free catalog.We are the oldest Dodge Brothers parts supplier in the USA and possibly the world Our Co. was started in 1954.As for running boards we have reproduction in stock They are as close as orginial as possible, and can supply you with the correct cover.

Vern

ROMAR 888-827-7601 (toll free).

email: sales@romardb.com

Our web sit www.romardb.com

Edited by Backyardmechanic (see edit history)
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Thanks Vern. I see you have a pretty good selection of parts. I'll have to save up for the running boards but eventually I'll need them. As for the splash aprons, it say 114" wheelbase in the on-line catalog. Am I correct that this should read 116"?

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Hi Mike

I am also in CT I have a 16 17 and 18 DB.

The splash aprons are often beat up rusted out and replacements are NOT available . I have fabricated my own but I have access to a metal roller. I might have a restorable one around from an 18 that should fit.

bob

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  • 3 weeks later...

A milestone today; I got the engine started. I was just running it off the battery and hand cranked it but it fired up pretty easy. The only thing is, I had to keep the fuel enrichment on or it would stall (even after warming up a few minutes). Maybe I didn't put the rack & pinion back together properly in the carb?

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I cleaned things up and see no obvious cracks. The head was a little bowed (about 10 thou at the middle) so I'm having it magnafluxed and planed. I also discovered where a lot of the upholstery went- in the water jackets of the block! Good thing I didn't run it long. I also found the valve clearances were huge (like 1/16" or more). I'm amazed it still ran like that. After adjustment I measured valve lift and they all came in within .30 - .305.

It also appears to have aluminum pistons. Were the orignals cast iron on a 1925? (car no. 323967)? A few measurements on the bores were within spec., no ridge observed at top of cylinder. The walls look pretty smooth but no cross hatching can be seen. Does this sound normal for an original engine?

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I was going by the bore tolerance listed in the Mechanic's Instruction Manual. I just took a few measurement and have not yet checked for taper. It did make a lot of tappet clatter when running. I set them to 0.008/0.010 cold just to be safe.

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  • 2 months later...

That last photo shows the pinstripe I uncovered after stripping a few layers of brushed on paint. I believe this dates to the original paint job (I felt like an archaeologist unearthing some long buried artifact)...

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  • 1 month later...

Yes I did receive it Jason. There are a couple of spots on the top flange of the frame on the driver's side that can possibly use a doubler but overall it does look pretty good.

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Hey, I also just got a 25 touring...but mine was restored in the 60's and sat in storage. You've got your hands full LOL. Let me know if there's pics of anything you need as mine is 98% complete...

What are the chances you have the large "Irons" or c-clamp things that bolt into the rear fenders to hold the top when it's down. If you have these and could take detailed pics and measurements I'd appreciate it :) Or if you know a shop that could duplicate them..even better, there are several guys looking for these. Cheers from Canada.

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I'm the same one who's been asking you for the top iron measurements. I don't have the top rests either.

Before I even offer this, please realize I have absolutely NO idea what I'm looking for or how to measure it, BUT if you would tell me exactly what you are after, I would be happy to look and see if my car has it and measure it for you if it's there!

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  • 1 month later...

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