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Starter for a 64 Riv


gdiwicker

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Greetings All,

My starter is grinding and won't turn over my 64 Riv. Can anyone suggest a good replacement?

Get your original starter rebuilt. There are many shops around the Houston area that can do it.

It may just need a starter solenoid.

The solenoid sits down by the heat from the exhaust manifold. The plunger originally had a light coating of grease on it, which cooks to be hard as a rock with time. So then it does not push the starter gear out as far or as firmly as it should. I opened mine up and cleaned it, then gave it a light coat of fresh grease to keep it starting strong.

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Jim-Who knows. I put it in storage a while back for two months and it was hard to start. I figured it was the fuel system, and it still may be an issue, but the crazy knock didn't start until later. Once the sm started to grind I knew at least I had to pull it. So I went to a rebuild shop on 19th yesterday and they said, "Yeah we have a housing, it'll take around three hours, and it'll be 75 bucks." I even asked him before I left, "You sure you have the housing?" I show up this morning and no dice. Back to square one.

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OK EVERYONE seems to be out of stock on this starter. I tried Pep Boys, Napa, Auto Zone, O'Riely's, Summit, Rock Auto, Ebay, etc... Any ideas guys on where to get one? The starter/alternator shop said I could get the nose welded together and then rebuild. Whatcha think?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Alright fellas, I got s starter from Tom and I'm about to go pick it up from the shop. Since its a horizontal bolt install I shouldn't need shims but are there any further instructions or tips that you all have? Also, if the issue before the grinding reappears (just spins for a few seconds then starts after multiple tries), then I suppose there's something wrong with the flywheel right?

If the problem does persist, I'll post a video on my gallery for you all to check out.

Thanks!

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Hi Ryan,

You should be able to visually check the ring gear before you install the starter. The engine comes to rest in 1 of 4 places on a v-8. Rotate the engine by hand as you inspect the ring gear. It will appear as new in places (provided someone hasn`t intentionally held the starter engaged while the engine is running) and there may be distinct wear in short segments of the gear. If the teeth are "peened over" from a bad bendix sometimes it is possible to redress the teeth with a file and get by without replacing the ring gear. Sometimes the teeth will be worn 3/4 thru the thickness of the gear and there is no alternative but to replace the ring gear/flexplate. Good luck!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks Fellas,

I got the starter rebuilt and installed it this afternoon. After a little carb cleaner and a jump start, it ran great. Special thanks to Tom for the starter. Now if I could only get it to run smoothly at start up like it does when it gets hot.

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Thanks Fellas,

I got the starter rebuilt and installed it this afternoon. After a little carb cleaner and a jump start, it ran great. Special thanks to Tom for the starter. Now if I could only get it to run smoothly at start up like it does when it gets hot.

Is your choke and and exhaust crossover working?
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I have an electric choke sitting on an aftermarket Carter. IDK if its the right choke or not. Also, how would I know if the exhaust crossover is an issue?
The exhuast crossover is has a butterfly valve on the outlet of the I think drivers side exhaust manifold (don't quote me on the side) that has a thermostatic spring on it. When your engine is cold it forces the exhuast under the carb and out the other bank. As it warms up the butterfly opens and it allows full use of that manifold. When mine didn't work I had problems with the car staying running without feathering the gas till it warmed up. After I fixed the valve things got better.

I also installed a thermostatic control on the electric choke I retrofitted onto my stock carter. I think it's a Ford Truck piece that opens the choke as the temp rises.

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