Buick36-49 Posted February 19, 2011 Share Posted February 19, 2011 Hello,I’ve put up a couple of posts for my two cars (trying to learn more). I have a 1936 Buick special series 40 with 233 cube. I wanted to know, when I first start the engine cold, I get a high oil pressure reading of about 45lbs. (according to the gauge in the car) As the engine gets hot (1 hour drive, does not overheat stays around 180 degrees in summer) the oil pressure gauge goes to 30lbs at speeds around 45mph and 20lbs at idle. Is this anything to worry about? I am using SAE-30. No oil filter installed. Engine has no knock. Oil is dripping out of the valve train when I take off valve cover. Engine probably has around 92k miles has new rings, but not crank bearings or connecting rod bearings. Engine also was cleaned out really well...plus oil pump. Runs very smooth.ThanksRobert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
egor Posted February 19, 2011 Share Posted February 19, 2011 No problem.Enjoy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Shaw Posted February 19, 2011 Share Posted February 19, 2011 Very normal.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buick36-49 Posted February 19, 2011 Author Share Posted February 19, 2011 Thank you both for your replies. I’ve just cleaned out the engine took out the valve train cleaned that out. Connecting rods and most of block. and put in new rings, it does not smoke. I’ve just started using detergent oil (SAE-30) but there is no filter installed, should I install one and would it bring down the existing oil pressure?Thanks again.robert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrspeedyt Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 filter wouldn't hurt... but just change the oil when it gets dirty. oil change interval is probably each 1000 miles anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoelsBuicks Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 Regarding the filter, because of connection issues, I think about the best you could do would be a filter that takes a partial stream of oil to a filter. In theory, everything still gets filtered even with partial flow. I wish that I could tell you where the right connection points are located on that engine, but I'm many miles away from mine right now.You ask an interesting question about the need for a filter. While it's easy to suggest that every car should have an oil filter, I'd probably keep an existing one operating, but I'm not sure I'd put one on that didn't already have one. I think if you keep your air cleaner in good shape and keep your oil changed regularly, you or your car will never miss the filter.Joel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buick36-49 Posted February 20, 2011 Author Share Posted February 20, 2011 (edited) Well, I look at it this way in my experience, I do a lot of driving with my daily cars (over 110 miles a day to work) and I was able to easy put 260k miles on my car and the engine still runs like new. (oil changed every 3k) The Buick is not a daily driver, so, I change the oil every spring and if I am lucky I will put 500 miles on them in one year at best. So, a filter (I think) prob won’t be necessary. I have an old riding lawn mower from 1994 and who knows how many hours are on it ( A LOT) and it never had a filter like the new ones have today, and it still runs great, we just did oil changes every 4th cutting. (It’s our method to the madness I guess)I was just hoping the detergent oil was not harming it more by having the dirt particules suspended and circling back through bearings and such...I really want to stay away fron non-detergent now that all dirt and sludge was removed from the block, pan, valve train, lifters.Robert Edited February 20, 2011 by Buick36-49 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Shaw Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 There has been much discussion on oils in this forum and others. The general consensus is that detergent oils were designed to work in conjunction with oil filters. Older engines had no filter and used non-detergent oils. Therefore, if you have an old engine that has not been rebuilt, use non detergent oil. If it has been rebuilt, use detergent oil with an oil filter.My 2 cents... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rayclay Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 Mark: Shortly after buying my '36 model 41 two years ago, I had the enginge overhauled. Knowing an oil filter was an option back in the day, I had one installed. I changed it after driving just a few hours and discovered (to my horror!) the filter had absorbed a sparkling collection of tiny metal debris. My machinist assured me this was predictable and normal in a total rebuild. I've replaced the filter twice since then, and everything looks normal. After 2 years of recreational driving, my oil pressure readings are commensorate with yours and the engine runs perfectly. My rebuilder also swore that these engines would be adequately served with as little as 7 pounds of pressure at idle. Now, if only I could get mine to run as cool as yours in the summer! Cheers, Ray Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buick36-49 Posted February 20, 2011 Author Share Posted February 20, 2011 Hello Ray, So as your driving about 30 to 45mpg lets say up a hill. Your oil pressure is about 30lbs hot? That what mine does.Thanks robert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rayclay Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 Robert: As per your question, yes. Traveling at 45 mph, my oil pressure reads between 30-35. That speed, btw, is nearly 'top' speed for my '36. After warming, at idle, my pressure hovers around 15-18 pounds. Sadly, if I drive stop and go in warm weather the pressure remains good but my temperature creeps up to 190 degrees. The way your rig is running with oil pressure and heat sounds ideal. I'd suggest you just drive and enjoy. Ray Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buick36-49 Posted February 20, 2011 Author Share Posted February 20, 2011 Hi Ray,Thanks for your reply! Yes, that's about what mine does as you mentioned. I had put another engine in my '36 because when I bought the car the existing engine had three cracks in the water jacket (none in the head). The other engine did the same thing as this one...so I guess thats how they run.Have you tried flushing out your radiator and water jacket. Does your car have a heater core? This (I think) helps mine run cooler. I use the green anti freeze 3 year stuff. RobertSee attachment for the heater core lines... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Straight eight Posted February 22, 2011 Share Posted February 22, 2011 I hope somebody has warned you about the Zinc or ZDDP crisis, and what your engine needs to keep from wearing out the valve train. Simplest for our straight eight engines is to use Shell Rotella 30 weight. It has all the good stuff we need to lubricate sufficiently and eliminate serious wear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLYER15015 Posted February 22, 2011 Share Posted February 22, 2011 Buicks 36,Pls go back and read my posts regarding CLR radiator flush, and oil pump rebuild about stretching the pressure relief spring 1/2", and the .002" clearance (from gears to cover plate). The Shell Rotella sugguestion from strt-8 is a good one, and a can of STP would not hurt.Re a filter, J.C-Whitney used to sell aftermarket bypass oil filters, that you put a roll of toilet paper in as the filter element, with instructions for lots of cars. My dad had one on his '38 chevy, but he bought filters from the John Deere dealer in town. You might just find one on E-bay.Post pic's of your project for us to "lust" after please.Best Regards,Mike in ColoradoBCA#45728AACA# 994416 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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