Jump to content

Vacuum hoses, need help!?


Guest riomar000

Recommended Posts

Guest riomar000

Hello everybody, I'm currently working on a 63 riv and was wondering if anyone could post a picture of there vacuum hose setup or send me a vacuum hose diagram via e-mail for the 401 single carb? Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ed's question is a good one.

I assume the car has A/C and you are trying to reconstruct the spaghetti of vacuum hoses for it. That is not a simple task. There are several diagrams in the shop manual to help you. Even with photos from some helpful soul, you will never figure it out without the shop manual.

When I replaced all my vacuum hoses, I reproduced the colored stripes on each hose, referenced in the shop manual, with a paint pen as I replaced each hose. If you do not do that, you quickly get lost.

PM me with your e-mail address and I will e-mail you a few pictures. But honestly, I do not think you will see the detail that you need, with all the small black hoses running around down in the dark recesses of the engine compartment. Work from the illustrations in the shop manual.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The shop manual diagrams worked OK for me on the '64.

I reproduced the color codes by using an under dash vacuum harness from a 1969 Cadillac as material. It was in a nice environment and very flexible. When I was short length I made a splice under the dash and used plain black where it couldn't be seen.

Bernie

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest riomar000
Do you want just the vacuum hoses for the carburetor or for all vacuum controlled accessories?

The carburetor and other general vacuum related hoses would be great. I have no need to hook up the a/c yet. Just a couple pics with the air cleaner off would help me out immensely.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can probably run those vacuum lines without a diagram.

A tee on the back of the carburetor uses vacuum for the PCV valve on the passenger's side valve cover and the power booster for your brakes.

In the right rear, a steel line goes to the vacuum modulator on the transmission.

From the base on the front a hose runs to the vacuum advance on the distributor.

There's a port on the carburetor neck that supplies fresh air to the choke tube. It runs to the bottom side of the passenger's side exhaust manifold. It's not really a vacuum line, just a fresh air supply line.

There is nothing in the chassis manual that I could find that shows these; the only vacuum hose routings that I could find deal with the a/c, heater, and cruise control.

Ed

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest riomar000
You can probably run those vacuum lines without a diagram.

A tee on the back of the carburetor uses vacuum for the PCV valve on the passenger's side valve cover and the power booster for your brakes.

In the right rear, a steel line goes to the vacuum modulator on the transmission.

From the base on the front a hose runs to the vacuum advance on the distributor.

There's a port on the carburetor neck that supplies fresh air to the choke tube. It runs to the bottom side of the passenger's side exhaust manifold. It's not really a vacuum line, just a fresh air supply line.

There is nothing in the chassis manual that I could find that shows these; the only vacuum hose routings that I could find deal with the a/c, heater, and cruise control.

Ed

That clears things up perfectly. I guess I'll have to pick up one of those fancy schmancy shop manuals that i hear so much about. Thanks again to everybody who replied. Off to ebay I go.

Mario

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...
Guest Rob J

On a single carb 401 65, there is also a vac/air line that runs from the top rear of the passenger side of the carb to a hard steel line, which runs down past the exhaust manifold. Does that steel line at the bottom of the manifold connect to anything, as on my car the steel line just has a curve in it, and nothing is connected to it?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's a fresh air intake for the heat tube that goes to the choke on your carburetor. It's not a vacuum line; there's no vacuum above the venturi. It should connect to the bottom of the tube running through the exhaust manifold.

Ed

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Rob J

Ed, it's not the fresh air line for the choke, as I know which one that is. This is a different line which attaches to a nipple near the rim of the rear passenger side of the carb. There is a rubber line, which connects to a hard line, which is clamped on the valve cover, then the hard line drops down towards the rear middle of the exhaust manifold in between #3 and 5 plugs. I'll take a photo if you still am not sure.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A picture would be great.

There is a vacuum nipple that comes off the base of the carb on the passenger's side rear. It goes to the vacuum modulator on the transmission. Other than that, the only vacumm line that I can remember going to the passenger's side of the car is the large hose that comes off the Tee at the back and goes to the PCV valve.

Ed

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Rob J

I think I figured it out Ed. It was hidden, but there is a nipple off the bottom of the passenger exhaust manifold. That steel tube appears to have connected to it at some point. The line broke off the nipple, so it need to be reconnected. Appears that the end of the line rusted, thus it broke off the nipple. I presume it again, is a fresh air line from the manifold to the carb, to get some heat in the carb on cold start ups, and cold weather.

On a different note, I got the car now running, and am attempting to adjust the timing. How in the heck do you get a wrench in there to loosen the hold down nut on the dizzy? This is a PITA. Are there any tips, tricks? I checked my timing, and it is showing it is around 13, so I think I need to retard it to 8 or so. My dwell is set perfectly at 30, and RPM around 600. Checked vacuum at the booster after the check valve, and I get 17.5-18 inches out of the check valve.

I think I still have a bad booster, however, because if I crimp the booster line, the engine revs lower, release the line, and it revs higher, and still no power brakes. I replaced most of all the vac lines, except the ac/heater control lines, as that is more involved.

Edited by Rob J (see edit history)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Get yourself a cheap distributor wrench; it will make it a lot simpler.

A2502.jpg

The manual says this for timing your engine.

Section 10-39

b.6

"Disconnect vacuum hose."

b.7.

"Direct beam of timing light on the timing indicator and edge of harmonic balancer. Turn distributor slowly until yellow mark on balancer is halfway between the "0" and "5" degree marks on timing indicator."

In other words set your timing at 2-1/2 degrees. :)

Ed

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 7 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...