Tom400CFI

'10 Hupp drive train repairs...

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Perfect, Ken. Thank you so much. That pic tells everything. Indeed, my balls "sawed" all the way through my outer race and were riding on the I.D. of the threaded end of the hub.

So that "steel ring" IS, (or was) part of the the bearing race. Yikes! Thanks Ken!

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Hubs are off/out of the wheels and down at a machine shop in Salt Lake City for a modern bearing solution upgrade. They are backed up several weeks so in the mean time, I'm considering the Ford hub ides.

Either way, Hupp won't be touring next week. It's not going to make it. :(

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Hi Tom and Ken, Perhaps I am a bit too late for you but this is my experience:- I measured the gap between drum and crankcase at 7/32nds of an inch. Originally this gap was filled with two brass washers sandwiching a fibre washer which acted as a thrust bearing to counter pressure applied on the clutch pedal. A modern thrust bearing AXK4565 with a thin washer on each side conveniently replaces this arrangement. Similarly the bearing in the clutch on the end of the coil spring has also been replaced with a thrust bearing AXK4060 and washers LS4060 on each side plus AS4060 with a spacer fitted to take up the extra diameter necessary to enlarge the brass bush shoulder which locates them.. all the best, Edgar

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Simon

First of all the  clutch  actuation  rod I think has to much play in it  This  will mean the clutch is not engaging fully 

Secondly  what oil do you have in the gearbox ? - Should be engine  oil  -the multiple discs  in the clutch have to separate  and the wrong thickness of oil makes this impossible .

 

Nice last couple of days in Melbourne !  Enjoyed some nice wine tasting  in the Yarra valley . Some amazing Shiraz/Syrah  ( some bottles  of which will cross the  Tasman home  with me ) However I still believe  New Zealand makes the better Sauv Blancs  and Pinot Noirs-  but maybe I'm just used to our style -Karl

 

 

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thanks for the reply Karl, I am glad your enjoying Melbourne and it crazy weather.

I have Penrite Shelsley Med sae30 oil in the box .

I believe it has a thrust washer missing between the clutch fork and clutch basket, which in return is giving the excess movement on the clutch rod, thus not giving enough disengagement of the clutch plates.

 

any thoughts anyone, before i pull the box out?

thanks Simon

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Since the clutch has been addressed, I'd like to pose a question: When stopped and in low gear, my Hupp doesn't creep forward. However, the engine will speed up when I shift to neutral. Does this mean the clutch is dragging?

 

Phil

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Well I bit the bullet and pulled the gearbox out after a couple of runs in it with the clutch getting worse, not disengaging and slipping, so the works...

so after pulling the box out I find that the previous owner failed to put any thrust washer between the clutch basket and block and no thrust ball bearing behind the spring... now wonder I was having trouble.

 

if anyone has tips,tricks, sizes of bearing and washers or the correct parts I could buy, please let me know it would be greatly appreciated.

 

with further investigation on the box casing, the torque tube ball mount is cracked....Bugga, so I need to get this welded up by someone who can weld cast.

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Somewhere I had a picture of Ken's washers, seems there were two brass washers and one fiber washer between them.  I'll keep looking....

000_2477.JPG

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Hi Simon and David,

 

Here are some photos I obtained from this forum when I was having a problem with my gearbox/clutch.  My engine would slow down and stall when the clutch was depressed and on pull down, I found the thrust washers were missing.  With the help of this forum, i had washers made up and now things work pretty well.

 

Cheers, Andrew.

78723d1297537194-10-hupp-drive-train-repairs-000_2479.jpg

Clutch drum thrust washers.jpg

Radiused thrust washer.jpg

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Thanks Andrew,

these photos have help me solve my problem (i hope)

the local bearing shop was able to help with the trust bearing for the spring and thrust washers. time will tell if i have it right...

 

Has anyone have a spare exhaust manifold they would like to part with?  

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I don't have a spare  exhaust manifold but what I do have  is all the patterns to cast one .

The previous owner of my car cast mine when he restored the car and I ended up with the patterns .

If you can't find one then  I could explore what it would cost to get one cast locally. I suspect should be  reasonable as most of the money goes in making the patterns which we already have -Karl 

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