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MY 1930 DA Deluxe 4 dr sedan


Guest MidTNDawg

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Guest MidTNDawg

OK, OK, now I have to get pics posted. Now I will probably have a bunch of questions. First question: The spark advance is not useable. But it starts well and seems to run well. What's the deal? Is it needed or not? Don't know when I will be headed back to TN just yet. Oh, another question: It is titled as 1930. The serial number info suggests it is a '29. Nearchocolatetown told me he had determined no two DA's were alike. Boy do I understand that statement now! Doug

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Not uncommon for these older cars to have been titled by the year they were actually sold verses the "model" year of construction. If the serial / engine numbers are high enough to have been near the end of the model year, it is highly possible it could have sold in 1930 and then have been titled/registered as a '30. Also, the 1929 Series DA's last group of serial numbers started with DA-80,000 on June 20th, 1929 (possibly ending with serial number DA-83,714 on June 30th 1929) and then the 1930 Series DA's started with serial number DA-83,715 on July 1, 1929.

So, if the first State to title/register the car used the manufacturer's designation of the model year, a "1930" could have started as early as July of 1929. If that first State used the actual year it was sold for titling/registration purposes, a car designated by the manufacturer as a 1930 could have been sold as a 1929 if between serial numbers DA-83,715 and DA-122,410 (December 31, 1929). And conversely, a 1929 DA that sat on a dealer's lot from say June 1929 and then sold in January 1930, could POSSIBLY have been registered as a 1930! (Though having a new car sit for almost seven months on a dealer's lot before being sold would be unlikely, even in the depression years. But not impossible I guess.)

What a mess, 'eh? :rolleyes:

All depends on your car's serial number AND the rules of the State in which it was first sold.

Edited by 1936 D2 (see edit history)
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Guest MidTNDawg

I got everything which they had. Haven't had a chance to sort through it yet. The "power" seems to be there so I assume it it frozen in the advanced position. I used my son-law-law's truck to come pick it up so I had a pretty steep climb to get up on the truck bed and it handled it just like it was level. Should I be able to turn the advance by hand easily? I cannot. Doug

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First of all congrats on getting your DA! I've attached a photo of my distributor before I started working on the engine. On the far left the cable has been removed from the attachment. I wonder if by removing the bolt in the foreground and the screw at the right and adding some penetrating oil around the distributor and letting it set if that will help loosen the distributor. As Jason and nearchoclatetown have said be very careful with this. I will say my distributor doesn't seem as "pot metal fragile" as my carb is; not that I'd tap on it, but it seems like steel..of course maybe mine isn't original as I found many other things on the car to be. This is just my 2 cents...I'm no mechanic or expert as these other folks are. Good luck with it and have fun with your new acquisition!

post-56954-143138428868_thumb.jpg

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Guest MidTNDawg

Well, I guess my next question on this topic is how do I know how far the spark is advanced? Again it seems to run very well. I will probably be back home by next Monday so I can get a better look at things as the car is tied down on the truck. I am thinking the timing mark(s) will be through a hole and on the flywheel. If so can I check the advance with a dial gauge in the sparkplug hole against the marks or what. I think from what I am getting here the timing is not very critical? Doug

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Guest MidTNDawg

Bob Z., thanks. Penetrating oil sounds good. No, I won't be tapping on anything w/o seeking advice here first. And thanks for the congratulations. I am excited. Can hardly wait to get home and have a decent weather day. Doug

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Guest charlesea

This car could have an eletronic ignition if the advance link is missing to the distributor. FS makes this which eliminates the need to retard the engine.

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Guest MidTNDawg

Thanks, but I am afraid that is not the case. Although I have discovered I have an electric wiper motor by Bosch. When I looked I thought it was the old vacuum motor but not so with the ignition. Doug

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Guest Backyardmechanic

Check the screw that is at the side of the head that holds the dist in place one may of timed the engine then tighten this screw so the dist would'nt move.

If there's any demand for the distributor we could pull our molds off the self and make new casting from alum.

Vern.

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Hard to tell Bob on your dist. casting looks too long but that may be just the engle of the pict. also North East tags are all brown whereas your tag looks like it is not, delco tags are black as far as I know so I am curious now to know if that is a N.E or not. Sure looks original otherwise

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Hmmm, Jason, as you and others have noted on my previous posts many of my parts I thought original are not, but all pieces have been with the car for 40 years at least. My distributor does have a Northeast tag on it, but it seems like the background color is black not brown....it also seems a lot more "solid" than pot metal....now I wonder if it is original to the car...hmmmm.

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Guest Backyardmechanic

Bob and others,

There was a cast iron distributor that were used late cars I have two of these and have seen more.I ask the late Bob Long about these cast iron base N/E elect distributor and was told the he belived that when Delco Brought out N/E in 1930 delco went to cast iron.

Yes the houseing is being made in AU. but will it fit?When we were supplying them we install a bronze bushing at each ends.

We also made the 6 volt Dist houseing at one time. But that's another story.

Vern

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I havent purchased the dist. housing from Glen in Aust. yet, it is on my wish list and I am hoping that if I say enough posative things about them here on this forum that they will just send me one ( hint hint ) but everything that I have purchased from them for my car has been top quality stuff and I dont see any reason as to why the dist. housing would be any different.

I have never seen a cast iron dist. housing but will keep my eyes open because if that is the case than I would like to have one.

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Guest MidTNDawg
Not uncommon for these older cars to have been titled by the year they were actually sold verses the "model" year of construction. If the serial / engine numbers are high enough to have been near the end of the model year, it is highly possible it could have sold in 1930 and then have been titled/registered as a '30. Also, the 1929 Series DA's last group of serial numbers started with DA-80,000 on June 20th, 1929 (possibly ending with serial number DA-83,714 on June 30th 1929) and then the 1930 Series DA's started with serial number DA-83,715 on July 1, 1929.

So, if the first State to title/register the car used the manufacturer's designation of the model year, a "1930" could have started as early as July of 1929. If that first State used the actual year it was sold for titling/registration purposes, a car designated by the manufacturer as a 1930 could have been sold as a 1929 if between serial numbers DA-83,715 and DA-122,410 (December 31, 1929). And conversely, a 1929 DA that sat on a dealer's lot from say June 1929 and then sold in January 1930, could POSSIBLY have been registered as a 1930! (Though having a new car sit for almost seven months on a dealer's lot before being sold would be unlikely, even in the depression years. But not impossible I guess.)

What a mess, 'eh? :rolleyes:

All depends on your car's serial number AND the rules of the State in which it was first sold.

The serial number is DA63499 so it clearly falls in the 1929 model year, but the title clearly says 1930. I am not concerned about the designation year but brought this up as a point of interest. Doug

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