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Straight 8 Exhaust Manifold


Guest Ken Sogge

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On 5/20/2019 at 4:28 AM, Bloo said:

I can't really see well enough to tell, but it looks fine. The plate is the sliding memeber on that stud, so I don't think there would be any belleville washers there. Those belleville washers look like good ones. I suspect they might even be original.

 

Some studs can (and probably should) be in contact with the manifold, as long as they do not block motion as the manifold gets longer. For instance it looks like the manifold is touching the long stud. The manifold will grow further away when it gets hot. I think i see a gap next to that last stud (bottom of pic). That is also good. When the manifold grows it will get closer to that one.

From illustrations and original photographs I've seen I think they are the original washers. There is about a 3/64" gap next to the long stud and yes a much larger gap next to the last stud. 

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The best washers for this application are plentiful and inexpensive  and sold for Jeep Wranglers on Ebay. Use the thick copper faced gaskets coated with an oil and graphite slurry on both sides and torque to less then factory spec. I use 18 lbs to accomplish a good seal and have great vacuum with strong fast windshield wiper action which is always a good indicator of well sealed intake manifold. I also raise the hood on a warm day to release hot air after a drive as it gets amazingly hot. Just unlatching it and placing a small wood block under the edge works  quite well to release hot air. 

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I drive my 1937 Special with a 1952 263 straight eight a lot and had two manifolds crack. I knew nothing about special lube and washers so my cure was a complete shot in the dark but has worked fine for the last 20 years. Did away with gaskets and alignment rings and used red high temp RTV silicone. Haven't had an exhaust or intake leak for at least 20 years. I'm sure the manifold is free to "creep" between hot and cold cycles.

 

 

Pont. heater, Buick sealant 003.jpg

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  • 4 years later...

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