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1937 Buick brakes


Guest Norgermish

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Guest Norgermish

Hi and thanks for reading this, my first post here :)

I am working on a friends '37 Buick. Another person took all the front end apart, i.e., brakes, springs, upper/lower control arms etc. All is thrown in a box...uhggggggggg!!!! I got the suspension all clean and painted and finished now I need some help with reassembly of the brakes. Is there a photo/diagram available that shows where all the parts go?...and if I actually have all the parts? According to the Motor's Auto Repair Manual they are Bendix brakes but no real diagram of the unit. Just wanting to make sure I do this right. Thanks for any help,

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The information will be in the Buick Maintenance manual. Order it from Bob's, CARS, or ebay, or any other source. These drum brakes are a fairly common design so search google for photographs of 36 - 50's Buicks and You might see photographs of what you need to see. If you have a local brake shop talk to the mechanic and they might instruct you on how assemble it. Parts like springs, shoes, and cylinders are available from many sources.

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Guest Tishabet

This is basically your setup, but I would echo the advice to buy a shop manual... particularly when it comes to something as critical as the brake system.

brakeOverall.jpg

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Guest Norgermish

Tanks for the replies, and the photo. That photo is really something more of what I am looking for although the brakes parts I have include springs, shoes, adjuster, and also 2 steel parts that look like they are for some kind of adjustment...those are the parts I am concerned about. I would put up a photo now but the car is up on a mountain and I won't be there till tomorrow.

I'll do a Google search too..

thanks again

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Hi,

I did this same job on my 37 Roadmonster. I am guessing the "two steel parts" may be the adjusting cams that are turned from the outside of the backing plate to push one shoe closer to or away from the inside of the drum. As I recall, each wheel has one cam adjuster and one Bendix star wheel adjuster. It's a hybrid of cam adjusters and Bendix adjusters.

When it's time to install shoes, if one pair of linings is a different color or thickness than the other pair, separate the pairs to one-each per wheel. One shoe liner is thicker than the other, and trying to put both thick shoes in the same drum will make you nuts until you finally go "Duh..." (Voice of experience).

--Tom

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Guest Tishabet

FYI, you can buy virtually all of the brake parts new if there's anything missing or worn out... I found the hydraulics fairly cheap at Kanter for example, which was good because my wheel cylinders were a rusty, pitted mess.

Again, this is not a system you want to half-a$$; make sure your master cylinder and lines in particular are up to snuff, and if this car is on a mountain remember how much these cars weigh and how big of an issue brake fade can be.

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I took my 38 Special up and (more importantly) down Pikes Peak with four passengers on the PWD AfterTour after the Colorado Springs National Meet.

Sure I used second gear to slow our decent, but the brakes were cool at the check station and they did not require us to wait for them to cool down. The standard brakes are well designed to stop these heavy cars.

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Packick,

Make sure you get the correct springs for the bottom of the brake shoes. The green spring is the wrong spring as it will not let the self adjuster work. Should look I believe something like this

post-44099-143138401583_thumb.jpg

Note the one end that goes up. It should go over the wheel for the self adjuster. I have seen a lot of brake jobs where persons have not put the correct spring or installed the correct spring upside down or backwards not allowing the self adjuster to work.

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I am pretty sure the spring above the adjusting wheel is correct and in the correct position. The reason I am doing a brake job now is because they haven't been done for about 15 years. It is only recently that I have experienced braking problems. Up to that point the brakes worked perfectly. As an aside, brake job done 15 years ago was done by my father, a Buick man, who did brakes for a living in the 1940s and 1950s so I am pretty positive it is correct. But thanks for your comments.

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  • 5 years later...

Any Idea where to get new Wheel Cyld's.  and a Master for 37 special?

Cylinders are on ebay from time to time

Even try out local NAPA or similar car parts store

 

For 37-38 parts try Dave T. Hard to contact so keep trying  http://forums.aaca.org/topic/206688-dave-tachney/

 

Have a look at the links in post 5 http://forums.aaca.org/topic/207201-39-buick-team-membership/

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When I did the brakes on the "Baby", I had my M/C and 4 wheel cylinders sleeved with stainless steel by "Karp's Power brake",66 North Central Ave., Upland, California, Ph 909-985-0800. Ron Karp is the owner and I actually visited his shop, and had a very good chat with him.

I am TOTALLY SATISFIED with the workmanship and pricing for this project !!!!!

Denver brake and clutch relined my shoes, trued the drums and they also relined my clutch, all at a VERY REASONABLE cost.

Mike in Colorado

Edited by FLYER15015 (see edit history)
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