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1936 Chrysler Airstream C7 owners?


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Hello, I'm new to the forum, I have a 1936 chrysler airstream c7 and curious if anyone has pics of theirs? Also looking for parts like hubcaps and possibly a 3 speed trans? The transmission I have has overdrive, but sat out in the weather for 20 years, dont know if its rebuildable. Any comments appreciated!

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I've actually seen them both ways in old literature. I like them better this way. It just seems awkward the other way. My personal opinion of course. It's actually one of the few guards I have seen finished on both ends so it is possible to swap them. I can't wait to get it back on the road this spring. Only 3 more months to go!!!!

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Heres a couple pictures of my Airstream, I noticed my bumper guards point down as well, (not that it matters). This was one of my dad's first cars and he traded it to my uncle for a station wagon back in the 60s. My uncle has kept it in his barn in north Idaho since the late 70s and he gave it back to my dad recently. So although I don't really like the term "barn find", it kind of is you know? Anyway its a fun father-son project and I hope to get it as close to original as we can.

It doesn't seem like there are to many of them around so any advice or tips on places to find parts is appreciated. Some other things I need are all the window seals and running board rubber, things like that.

Thanks!

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I would suggest Egge Machine for any engine parts. They actually have a kit for under 2,000 that has just about everything except the main bearings. (hope yours are good) I spent alot more than that on mine in parts and still didn't replace as much as they have in the kit.

I used Steele rubber for some of my rubber stuff. The bumper bracket rubbers seem pretty nice although the rubber for my windows was wrong. They didn't have any problem with the return though. The roadster window frames take a special gasket that they I don't think is being reproduced accurately. The glove box rubber bumpers were too fat as well so I ground them down. They are a bit expensive. I used Roberts and was happy with everything I got from them. They are about 1/2 as expensive on the rubber parts they stock.

I had to reline my own brake shoes as the ones out there don't fit. The linings are hard to come by as well but they are available.

One thing you will find out about your 36 is there isn't that much available.

The engine is a 3 year engine shared with Desoto.

I don't believe there is anyone making runningboard mats that are correct. There is a guy who mills new ones using yours as a pattern. Sounds expensive though. There is a place in Oregon I believe making glove boxes. I got a pair of those and was pretty happy with them. Again 160.00 for a pair. It's not a cheap car to do. Great style and lines though when compared to a Ford of the same vintage. (it makes the Ford look cheap) It has alot of great features to, Front sway bar, Full oil pressure system with filter, Independent front suspension, Hydraulic brakes. Mine drives real well. I would say as good as my 1948 Cadillac.

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Hello,

I'm getting ready to buy a 36 Chrysler C7, it actually runs, has some issues with the door latching mechanism, and needs a good restoration.

It has hard plate on the top, and am told that this use to be a canvas cover

to slide back ?? any feedback on this....

Has it been difficult to find parts....

Steve

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I don't think the soft top slid back, but in 36 they realized the safety need for a steel roof and they filled the hole with a steel insert. In 1937 Chrysler came out with an all steel one piece roof. Thats a great looking Airstream, notice how someone replaced the horns with turn signals, on mine turn signals were added to the bottom of the headlight buckets. If you do buy it please post more pics, there are so few Airstreams around. The Airflow kind of stole its thunder.

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Thanks for the great feedback, It's pretty sure I will be picking it up, the hard plate makes sense now, I've seen some 36's with an electric horn on the right fender, but I it looked like all had the turn signal lights.

Don't know what parts I really need yet, till I get a chance to go thru the trunk which has a bunch of miscellaneous things in it. I do know the drivers side door won't work, I'm told there is a latch problem, so will have to look into that. Again appreciate the great feedback, between the wife and you folks you've about cinched it for me picking it

up. Need to get some good restoration tips, and a maintenance book to get this project underway. The wife loves the car and is looking forward to helping with the restoration.

She saw a color scheme of an Arizona car, Burgandy Fenders, Cream paint that she likes. So will see as time goes on....Steve

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P.S.

When I get it home I will take a lot of before pictures and post, and then keep the progress going.

Still learning how to work this, I think I blog'd Kaiser31, right now the

only part I see I need is a new Lense for the right headlamp. Sure I will

need more as time goes on. Steve

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Ok, took a more extensive look today, the other day was hurried due to the cold weather, and since I'm a rookie on restorations, gotta a couple of questions for the group.

Is there a book that gives tips and tricks on restorations?

After looking the car over, most of the rubber mounts for the fenders, around the windows, the lamps etc is dry rotted. Are these parts available?

The interior will have to be replaced, so is there a place where I can find the period upholstery, and color schemes for that year?

This car does not have the radio, it has a dummy plate in place, are these available?

Also there is a round plate below the radio about 3" across with a knob in the center, it looks like another dummy plate for an option. Ideas on what this for??

It still has the hand assist straps for the back, as well as the ashtrays. All

hubcaps. Don't know what the jack for it would look like.

Spare fits in the trunk not on the fender as I've seen some pictures.

And it needs a headlight lens, and windshield wiper arms.

Other than that, some TLC and paint and interior it should be good to go.

Sorry for the lengthy dissertation, but appreciate any pointers.

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You're correct on the ashtray. That is directly below the radio delete. Radios are available on Ebay. It took me a year but I found a complete unit that was refurbished with a very nice correct head and knobs for $500. I think that's about market on them. The key is to make sure you get the base the head and the knobs. The base is easiest to find by itself. The knobs are really hard so it may be best to find a whole unit. Rubber is available through Steele rubber. A little pricey though. The running board mats I don't believe are being reproduced so you have to go to a generic matting. I'm lucky enough to have decent original mats still. There was a guy who would mill new ones from a rubber blank but I imagine it's pretty pricey. Although if enough of us need them maybe we could get together and work something out with him. Some rubber parts are available through Roberts in Massachussetes I believe. I think that's where alot of my small stuff came from. They were considerably less than Steele.

I got wiper arms off ebay as well. You just have to shop and be patient. The right deal will usually come along.

Not sure where to get interior fabric. Lebaron Bonney stocks material for many vintage cars, they may beable to help you out. I know they don't have a complete kit though. Just the raw material. Probably a little pricey as well. They seemed to be on other interior parts I inquired about for GM cars.

There is on Ebay right now, a pair of NOS horn covers for where you're signal lights are mounted.

I'm not sure how many sets the guy has but I bought a set from him last year for my car and he currently listed the only other set I have seen. The nice part is they are NOS so you don't need to have them plated. These may be hard to come by later if you don't have them in the parts in the trunk.

Looks like a pretty nice car. Let me know if you need any help. I just finished a bunch of stuff on mine and would be more than happy to share what I learned.

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Hi guys, here's a couple more picture, thanks for all the feedback, This forum will prove invaluable as I proceed in the restoration, here are some more pictures. We are going to try and start it up this weekend, since it was originally drove into the shed 12 years ago.

:D

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I'll third that.

The change may be healthy for both groups.

What are the similarities for example in accessories offered for both cars ?

Are the radio heads , glove box clocks or even hub caps the same ?

Cheers

Mark

35 Airstream C6 RS Coupe

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Ok, we started the car up today, ran great as long as you poured gas down the carb, couple of problems encountered.

1. The starter solenoid is not holding, so need to replace it.

2. And its possible the fuel pump diaphragm is dried out, and the fuel pump

doesn't look right. The ones I've seen online have a sediment bowl attached,

this is just a old Carter type pump, no bowl. (does it matter???)

Anyway, I saw a guy on Ebay advertising, a Solenoid, (used) for $495, think

he is smoking something, or is this reality for old car parts.

Steve:(

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Ok, we started the car up today, ran great as long as you poured gas down the carb, couple of problems encountered.

1. The starter solenoid is not holding, so need to replace it.

2. And its possible the fuel pump diaphragm is dried out, and the fuel pump

doesn't look right. The ones I've seen online have a sediment bowl attached,

this is just a old Carter type pump, no bowl. (does it matter???)

Anyway, I saw a guy on Ebay advertising, a Solenoid, (used) for $495, think

he is smoking something, or is this reality for old car parts.

Steve:(

For $495.00 it is probably plutonium plated. Not a reality in MY mind. Try Andy Bernbaum for the solenoid...

Andy Bernbaum Auto Parts for Chrysler's cars from 30s to 70s

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I would try contacting Blissfulsob he said he has 2 engines. Maybe he has atleast one good solenoid he would sell you. You may also try checking to see what else the solenoid fits. You may find it listed for a different car on ebay. Alot of people list stuff based on what they took it off from. Not necessarily what it will fit. I haven't checked but that should fit atleast a few different years and other Mopar products.

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I ran the numbers in my Mopar catalog and the solenoid was used 1936-1941 all Chrysler 6 and 8 cylinders. I ran it through my Autolite catalog and it is unique to just Chrysler cars. Not used on any other makes. It's not even used on other cars in the Mopar lineup.

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I have 2 3 spd manuals without overdrive in washington state. Also ahve the two engines they are coupled to. Willing to sell all, if interested as I have converted my 35 to a v8 with automatic

Hi, are willing to part out one of the engines, I'm in need of a fuel pump and stater solenoid. Steve:)

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Fuel pumps are available aftermarket reproduction. I think I bought mine from Roberts. The starter solenoid is a tougher item to come by. You may see if you can have it rebuilt if you have any local shops that do repairs on Generators and starters.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Is that the original paint on the car? It looks so good in the photos, so does your interior, I would seriously consider driving it as is, after the mechanics are solid. There is a real appreciation for quality survivor cars nowadays. I own a 36 dodge 4 dr sedan I bought in barn condition, but the paint was too thin and rattle can primer was shot over most of it. Its now been repainted and looks great, but I'm sorry I couldn't revive it "as is".

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Do any of the owners on here know excatly where the radio speaker and tube assembly "box" mounts? I have been told it goes over the steering column which makes sense but I have to cut down the left hand glove box liner for it to fit. I just want to be sure it's right before I go hacking my new 80.00 Glove box up. Also exactly where does it mount. I want to know before I go drilling random holes in firewall. No existing knockout plugs match the mounting tabs. Thanks for any help, in advance, Randy

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I'm glad to see there are so many people here with Chrysler Airstream's.

AS some of you may know me I have had two of these since the late 80's

and as of right now I think this latest thread has been the biggest gathering of Airstream info. I have ever seen. Cheers to all your restoration hard work, and keeping it as original as possible.

I may have a solenoid for a six volt starter. But as noted a good starter shop can rewind the solenoid. This is the type is work it takes to really restore such a rare vehicle. Now, I don't like to promote changes but if your vehicle needs a lot of expensive electrical parts it will be cheaper to convert the entire system to 12 V. This was the only way I could afford to keep my vehicles from the crusher.

If I can be of assistance feel free to contact me.

Eric vw4x4@verizon.net

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  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...
I ran the numbers in my Mopar catalog and the solenoid was used 1936-1941 all Chrysler 6 and 8 cylinders. I ran it through my Autolite catalog and it is unique to just Chrysler cars. Not used on any other makes. It's not even used on other cars in the Mopar lineup.

"It's not even used on other cars in the Mopar lineup."

Most other Mopar vehicles in those times had a manual pedal that

you pushed that engaged the starter.. These detail are what I like about

the Chrysler C7 C8 line, over all the other mopar products back then.

Eric

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  • 3 months later...

Ok, seeing these nice cars out here, can someone take a picture of under the front seat, where the battery box is so I can see the layout, as well as what the passenger side looks like, please?

This site's been pretty quite, everyone move somewhere else.....?

Steve

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Looking for drawing of transmission Warner T86-1A from dec 1935 (which is in 1934 DeSoto Airflow) together with 6 cyl engine S1

with best regards

Andrzej Rutkowski

Warsaw

Poland

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