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Thermostat replacement help


Guest Stormbringerut

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Guest Stormbringerut

Howdy guys. I can't remove the darn coolant manifold outlet from my 1988. I have removed the bolt and the radiator hose. I have tried wiggeling and prying lighty with a screw driver. Any thoughts? I can get it to move a little up (1/8" or so) and down and left to right. How far does it stick down in?

Frustrated.

Edited by Stormbringerut (see edit history)
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Not an owner anymore, but as I remember the diagram in the diagonostic manual shows the installation upside down for the thermostat. Others can confirm this.

Tom T.

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Guest Stormbringerut

Thanks for the help guys. I will go home and coat up the area with WD40. I had to do that to remove the bolt last night. I bet this is the original thermostat and that is probably why she is so tight.

Mike.

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Remember when replacing to get the maifold opening very clean and smooth, coat the O-Ring with a little grease or soap (I prefer grease), use a long screwdriver to press it back in, use anti-seize on the bolt, and do not play godzilla on the bolt, it just holds the neck in place, the O-Ring seals.

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Guest Stormbringerut

Mission accomplished. New 180 and both o-rings in place. No leaks and she is running 176-184 at 34 degrees ambient temperature.

One more question. Will I have any trouble passing emissions going from the 195 to 180? I have to inspect the vehicle this month. She has always passed both emissions and safety inspection with flying colors.

FYI - The old stat was stuck open.

Nice and warm now. Mike.

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Guest Stormbringerut

Is it necessary to re-program the fans? With the 180 in I doubt I will need them much. My AC compressor crapped out this spring. I have a used one but have not installed it. I have a by-pass pulley installed now.

How does one reporgam the fans?

Nice warm ride in this morning.

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Is it necessary to re-program the fans? With the 180 in I doubt I will need them much.
The thermostat only limits how cool the engine will run. Not how hot it can get.

How hot the engine will get depends on air flow through the radiator. Reprogramming the fans to come on at a lower temp is about the only way to keep the engine cooler when the vehicle is not moving. The lower temp thermostat will not help in that regard. Turning on the AC will help some but the engine will eventually get above 210 degrees if you sit in traffic for very long. Having the fans turn on sooner is the only real answer to preventing the engine from getting hot when the car is not moving.

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Should mention that the engine itself is probably fine to around 230F with 50-50 antifreeze. That said, everything else under the hood including engine and transmission fluids, belts, wiring harnesses, batteries, & hoses last longer if kept under 200. I prefer a 180 because the computer is "all in" by then and provides pleanty of heat even at 0F. Non-computer cars I run at 160F.

Might also mention that the converter lights off long before the engine even reaches 140F & all emissions are minimal. Might even reduce NOx slightly.

Just my opinion.

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Guest Mc_Reatta

I have developed an alternate solution to helping the car run cooler that is a simple plug and play modification to the fan circuits that results in having both fans run at high speed whenever they are turned on by the BCM.

Definitely helps the temp stay close to the thermostat opening set temperature and aids the efficiency of the AC when the car is stuck in traffic or at a long stop light.

A much less expensive proposition than having the reprogramming done, and no car down time while the prom is sent away.

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I have developed an alternate solution to helping the car run cooler that is a simple plug and play modification to the fan circuits that results in having both fans run at high speed whenever they are turned on by the BCM.

Definitely helps the temp stay close to the thermostat opening set temperature and aids the efficiency of the AC when the car is stuck in traffic or at a long stop light.

A much less expensive proposition than having the reprogramming done, and no car down time while the prom is sent away.

Two simple questions:

Does the AC have to be running for this to work?

If not how will the BCM know when to turn the fan on to maintain a lower temp?

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Guest Mc_Reatta

I will make available for 89s - 91s as soon as I can find the time to get some installation instructions made up. That should be soon now.

I have found myself unbelievably busy with emergency and other heavy duty car repair work, and struggling with the government to rectify income issues.

The mod does not cause the fans to turn on, just causes them to run at high speed any time they are turned on by the BCM. So to turn on before the BCM set temperature is reached requires the AC to be turned on.

There's not many times I can think of I'm worried about the engine temp being to high when I'm not worried about my temperature getting to high as well, so AC is on anyway.

Believe I have a similar solution for the 88 as well, but not having one I would need an interested 88 owner to confirm that it will work as intended.

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'88 is simple. Just put a jumper across a ballast resistor and you're done. I did mine a long time ago. I can take a photo if needed.

I thought you were planning a way to actually turn on the fans earlier without the AC being on or reprogramming the prom. I did it on my '88 but it is not simple to do.

Coolant Fan Control Relay Modification*-*ReattaOwner.com

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Guest Mc_Reatta

Jumping the ballast resistor in an 88 is only half of the issue. That will cause the puller (inner) fan to run at high speed, but will not turn on the pusher fan at all. so your not getting maximum air flow thru the radiator and condenser to get the best effect.

I remember when you did your secondary thermostat switch solution, but it isn't as inexpensive and simple to install as one would like.

It would be easy enough to install a switch to turn the fans on at will, but it would not be automatic and would probably result in quad driver faults coming up in diagnostics. Plus you have to run the wires and figure out where to put the switch.

I think just turning on the AC if it isn't on already, is the simplest solution to the problem. Most of the time the engine is getting hot is in slow traffic when its warm outside and the AC is most likely in use too.

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