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RUST DOES SLEEP, ACTUALLY (life with a '57 Roadmaster)


Guest Rob McDonald

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If your Buick was doing that I would say it is a bad ballast resistor. During starting a terminal on the solenoid feeds 12v to the distributor and after starting it continues to run on reduced voltage from the resistor. Bad resistor: it will fire, but will not continue to run.

Willie

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Guest Rob McDonald

That would be very cool indeed but I'm afraid First Fire is still several weekends away.

Ooh, if I had this beauty, she'd be named Radio Flyer - my not-so-little red wagon...

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Guest Rob McDonald

'53 Skylarks are special to me because a good friend of mine was restoring one, just like this, when I was rebuilding my Roadmaster's engine. He let me use a corner of his shop to spread out all the bits as they came back from the machine shop and mentored me as I put it all back together. He finished that beautiful Skylark and drove it over 20,000 miles, before selling it about ten years ago.

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Guest Rob McDonald

IKE, that's Mandarin Red Poly (meaning metallic). It was a Skylark-unique colour that was also available on special order on Roadmasters.

In 1954, Buick designers made a skillful transition from the rather bulbous early-50s cars to the sleek style that marked the middle of the decade. All Rivieras showed off their rear wheels with big, Skylark-influenced cutouts.

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Edited by Rob McDonald (see edit history)
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Guest Rob McDonald

Oops, I hit Post instead of Go Advanced. I would never willingly omit 1954 in this countdown, for fear of being blacklisted by our beloved moderator.

'55 marked the popular onset of the 4-door hardtop, surely the '50s finest contribution to coachbuilding tradition. Advertising art was peaking at the same time. Buick sales bloomed that year, surpassing Plymouth for the number three position.

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Guest Rob McDonald

'56 was a great year at Buick dealerships because the new cars were so much like the high-water '55s. I like station wagons of all sorts, so I had to include another one in this checklist.

Go ahead, someone ask me what was so good about 1957...

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Okay, what was so good about 57's? BTW I saw the picture of the insides of the nailhead, posted in the thread on the 1966 Riviera engine swap ( on the General tab). Looks like that socket could be anywhere in there. I guess one good thing is the nailhead manifolds won't break your back.

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Guest Rob McDonald

Thanks, John, I thought nobody was going to ask...

Design-wise, the Big Three automakers all had a great year in 1957. Chrysler's Forward Look was notched up again and Ford had a solid collection of attractive cars. All five of GM's divisions had very handsome cars, with Buick being my particular favourite. Although I'm also fond of the junior series, it's a big 4-door Roadmaster that's held my attention for over 40 years. I love the sweep of the roofline and the way the rear doors merge with the C-pillars.

The attached image is of Tom Gibson's (TGRoadmaster57) beautiful model 73, which is an almost-twin to my own car.

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Guest Rob McDonald

No parade of 'Fifties Buicks can end without the fabulous '58 and '59...

Here's a clean-cut LeSabre, out playing in the snow, and my favourite photo of my favourite Limited.

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Guest Rob McDonald
Looks like that socket could be anywhere in there.

JOHN, I'm pretty sure the socket is sitting beside the distributor drive bevel gear that's on the back of the camshaft, as seen in these two photos. No matter, I'm going to remove the intake manifold and valley cover anyway, to help with spinning the oil pump driveshaft.

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Guest Rob McDonald
If your Buick was doing that I would say it is a bad ballast resistor.

WILLIE, you diagnosis was perfect, thanks, even though the patient is not a Buick. I took the ballast resistor out of my '62 Valiant and popped it in the '67, which fired up and ran like it was a summer day. I'll get back to the Buick garage tomorrow, now that my Daily Driver is once again drivable daily.

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Hey Rob,

Not sure what is with Chrysler ballast resistors ....

Just before I got married my wife had purchased a new 1978 Dodge Diplomat because her father worked at the Chrysler Plant here in Windsor, Ontario. It had to be changed out twice. Then we bought a low mileage 1979 Newport and it had the same issue.

Then... we owned a 1981 Chrysler New Yorker and it had the same issue.

Ironically, during that time when we bought our second home, in the garage were 9 ballast resistors sitting there up on a shelf! The previous home owner worked at Chrysler's so..... put them to good use when we needed to.

Not about Buick's here but......

Cured that problem after the 3rd Chrysler..... I bought a 1992 Buick LaSabre!

Edited by dei (see edit history)
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Guest Rob McDonald

I had two short work days at the Buick garage this weekend. On Saturday morning, I pulled off the intake manifold and valley cover. My missing socket was right where I figured it would be, nestled up against the end of the camshaft. I then reinstalled the oil pump and oil pan. With the valley cover off, I could now plainly see the head of the oil pump drive shaft.

This afternoon, using my home-made drive tool in my electric drill, I spun the oil pump until I saw oil dripping out of the rocker shafts. I had my daughter check the oil pressure gauge and she confirmed that the needle was way up on the gauge when the drill was running. I kept spinning the pump for a good ten minutes, until my drill started to smell hot. It was working hard pushing all that oil around the engine. I then put the valley cover back on and was pretty satisfied with the weekend's incremental progress.

Edited by Rob McDonald (see edit history)
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Guest Rob McDonald

My next "due diligence" task is to check that I have no stuck valves, a problem which dormant nailheads are known to suffer. It seems to me that cranking over the engine to test for this would risk a bent push rod or even a piston-to-valve collision, however low speed. Would I be better to remove the rocker shafts? With the shafts disengaged, all the valves should be closed, if none are stuck in the guides. A tap with a rubber mallet, on the end of each valve stem, ought to confirm that they are free to move.

If I do determine that a valve is stuck open or closed - heaven forbid - what's next? Can they be freed without pulling the cylinder head?

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Sounds like a good idea to test those valve Rob. Although to the best of my knowledge the nailheads are non interference motors, meaning pistons won't hit open valves. As for freeing them up if they do stick? I might suggest spraying the valve stem areas with some PB blaster an hour or two before tapping with the mallet.

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Hey Rob - I've been following your post for a few days and thought I might throw in my two cents worth as I went down this same road last year. I started a 364 that had been sitting for 36 years and it seems to me that I was in lock step with your check list including the "squealing school girl dance." I do agree with John regarding the use of PB Blaster as I went through two cans of the stuff before I was brave enough to even hand crank her. I would spray the hell out of the rocker assemblies and even spray some in the cylinders just to be safe before cranking with the starter. If you can see oil dripping off all of the rockers while cranking, you should be good to go. Also, with the valve covers off, you can see if you have any stuck valves - BTW I think John is correct regarding non-interference heads. As far as the cooling system, I don't know if you've had the bottom radiator hose off, but I would recommend disconnecting it at the water pump just to be sure nothing has solidified. On mine, I learned that 36 year old anti-freeze turns into black Quik-crete. Good luck with the resurrection - can't wait to see the video (including the squealing school girl dance.)

Steve

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Guest Rob McDonald

STEVE, thanks for the mechanical and choreographic encouragement. There is some yellow, crystalline sludge in my engine's cooling system but I've been assured it will dissolve harmlessly in fresh antifreeze, which I'll then need to change again.

Regarding potential stuck valves, once I've soaked the valve stems with penetrant and loosened the rocker arms, I should actually be able to open each valve with the heel of my hand if they've not stuck in the guides. Only if any of them doesn't budge, would I give it a light tap with my rubber hammer. Is there any chance that could dislodge a valve guide?

Aw heck, I worry too much - gotta just get out there and do it.

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  • 3 weeks later...
Guest Rob McDonald

More baby steps in the garage today... I unbolted the rocker shafts and confirmed that all valves more freely in their guides. After a 20 year sleep, these needed to be checked. I then reinstalled the intake manifold, which was a good test of back muscle health. Now I need a torque wrench again. I've always borrowed them, so I set out today to finally buy one. My usual parts supplier was out of stock, so I went to Canadian Tire. They had little ones and huge ones but none that seemed right to me. I'll try again next Saturday at KMS Tools, which is the kind of store at which a guy could happily spend a three-day holiday: tool heaven.

I started to set the preliminary distributor timing. Following the procedure in the shop manual, I turned the engine by hand until both #1 valves were closed and the #1 piston was at the top of its stroke. I set the timing mark at 5 degrees BTDC and dropped in the distributor. It engaged the oil pump shaft right away. Everything seemed according to plan except that the distributor rotor is not where it's shown in the manual. If the rear of the distributor is 12 o'clock, the manual shows the rotor at about 9 o'clock, whereas my rotor is sitting at 3 o'clock. Does it matter? Can I/should I remove the distributor and spin it 180 degrees, so that it matches the illustration?

My next job will be reinstalling the distributor cap and weaving the ignition wires, so that the #1 wire engages the rotor position. I've got a bunch of reassembly tasks to do, as well - replacing the valve covers, mounting the power steering pump, and installing the fan belts. I'm still a work session or two away from attempting to start the engine.

You may detect a certain cowardice on my part. You're right - I'm scared silly of connecting a battery to this beast. Too many things have been apart, over a long period of time, so I'm second-guessing myself every step of the way. Eventually, I'll run out of excuses and will have to turn the key.

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You may detect a certain cowardice on my part. You're right - I'm scared silly of connecting a battery to this beast. Too many things have been apart, over a long period of time, so I'm second-guessing myself every step of the way. Eventually, I'll run out of excuses and will have to turn the key.

I get where you are coming from Rob. Right now I'm spending way more time organizing and planning than actually get at my projects. At this point in my life, failure is not an option....

One thing for sure, hearing that 364 fire up and purr for the first time will wipe out all that second-guessing and excite you even more to GET HER ON THE ROAD!;)

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"You may detect a certain cowardice on my part. You're right - I'm scared silly of connecting a battery to this beast. Too many things have been apart, over a long period of time, so I'm second-guessing myself every step of the way. "

Where is that hand slap to the back of the head smiley when we need him?

Com-on man! We need to hear that beast...

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Hi Rob! Sounds like you're just about there! Ditto on the distributor being 180 degrees off - just lift up and turn the rotor half way - you should be good to go. I know what you mean about being nervous starting one up after years of sitting. I was a basket case starting mine - I never knew I could look so many places at the same time. I thought for sure I'd have oil, gasoline, coolant etc., leaking out everywhere, but that wasn't the case. I can't wait to hear that you got her fired up, so I'll keep checking in when I can. BTW - I'm bringing in a new restoration project to my shop later today - a 1953 Seeburg jukebox that was left for my wife by her Grandfather years ago. I figure on having the jukebox stocked up with my favorite Doo Wop 45's in a few months time. I can't think of a better working environment for my ongoing 46C project. Keep me posted...

Steve

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Guest Rob McDonald

I know, I know, July will be here before I know it. I'll be going to Portland anyway, though, whether or not my Buick is prepared to join me.

Regarding your trailer dilemma, if this will be you first experience towing a car to a show, I suggest you rent. Get a feel for it and talk to other trailer-haulers at the meet. Then, you'll probably make a better choice when it comes time to purchase. Or you might find you hate the whole towing experience and henceforth only take your car to events to which you can drive. In that case, renting will have saved you a great big headache.

This is just off the cuff, mind you. I don't even know anyone with a Trailer Queen car.

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  • 1 month later...
Guest Rob McDonald

Had another work session at the Buick garage a while back. Torqued down the rocker arms and intake manifold and loosely re-installed the distributor. My brain tells me this car is ready to fire but my gut fears that I've forgotten something. I dread that I'm going to have a smoke-belching, oil-spewing disaster if I try to hit the switch. I will get back to it, I promise, just don't know when.

Meanwhile, I have faced the truth that I will not be driving my Buick to Portland this July. Even if it runs smooth as silk, there are too many other chores that need attention before a trip around the block, never mind 'cross country.

I will be at the BCA National meet in July but I'll be flying in instead of driving. Portland is a great city to visit, even without a Buick. Most of all, I'm looking forward to the Forum Breakfast, where I can put faces to names to guys that I have come to know and respect, in my years of following the AACA Buick forums.

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  • 10 months later...

Hey Rob,

It's been a while since you have posted here. Wondering just how you made out with the reviving of your engine?

I noticed you chimed in on 1957buickjim's thread recently and it sparked my mind to look back over yours as I'm going to try and fire my Special up again after a long sitting. Lot's of good advice here for me.

So how's it going? Any progress you are willing to share?

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  • 5 months later...
Guest Rob McDonald

Groooan, creeeak, squeal... that's the sound of me coming back to the Forum. Remarkably, I found my password and, bingo, I'm in again. Thanks to Lamar, Jim, Doug, and Ike for inquiring after my state of being. I'm okay, just having a hard time adjusting to single life, at sixty years of age.

 

I had my Buick towed home a couple of months ago and all the spare parts just got dumped around the garage, leaving no space for productive work. My tools are all in boxes because my big tool cabinet got damaged in the move. It's going to take several work sessions - and some purchases - to whip the shop into shape before I get back to the task of firing the Buick.

 

I figure the best motivation I'm going to find is among my friends on the Buick Forums, so look for more of me 'round here. Feels good to be back.

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