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55 Century 66R Project


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OK, now I get it. What are the odds of finding these?

Mud, these are very rare and expensive when found. Looking closely you will see an actual separate bulb inside and they are smooth on the outer surface with no aiming lugs in the glass (T-3 and later had 3 lugs). There were 2 types in 55: early had a metal back and later had a glass back. They say 'sealed beam', but were not sealed well since many have blackening of the silver reflector as is the case of the 2 on my original car. I found 2 more, but the low beam is not working on one...these came from a 55 Pontiac and it is my understanding that all 55 GM cars used those, so your are competing with many and they are not reproduced.

For judging just use 2 matching non-halogen sealed beams and you should not use points.

Willie

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BTW, Willie made me buy this pair at some Nationals, after telling me my T-3's weren't correct. I will say that these cost only slightly less than the repro T-3.

As far as finding some, pretty slim chance. Like Old Tank said, just use non halogens, or buy mine for $250 after I have the convertible judged...

;)

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BTW, Willie made me buy this pair at some Nationals, after telling me my T-3's weren't correct. I will say that these cost only slightly less than the repro T-3.

As far as finding some, pretty slim chance. Like Old Tank said, just use non halogens, or buy mine for $250 after I have the convertible judged...

;)

Ha, the ones in my car are from before 1982. That was when the original owner parked it. I tested the first one Saturday and it worked fine. I tested the second one tonight and the whole thing filled with white smoke! I will just put new sealed beams in and call it done. Thanks, guys. Mud

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Cool Stuff! I found a product called VersiMold. It is a silicone rubber base product that has the consistency of sticky modeling clay and cures when you add heat. Now I can make small rubber parts for the Buick that I can’t buy. Make a mold, work the product into the mold and heat to 250 degrees, let it cool and you have a new part! I made some trunk stops today. Mine were long gone. Thanks to Willie he had an extra set of the metal cores. (Video coming soon) Mud

http://versimold.com/

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Cool Stuff! I found a product called VersiMold. It is a silicone rubber base product that has the consistency of sticky modeling clay and cures when you add heat. Now I can make small rubber parts for the Buick that I can’t buy. Make a mold, work the product into the mold and heat to 250 degrees, let it cool and you have a new part! I made some trunk stops today. Mine were long gone. Thanks to Willie he had an extra set of the metal cores. (Video coming soon) Mud

http://versimold.com/

Video

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That is some "cool stuff". Love all your videos Mudbone, what a great help you are to others!!!

I think my car was built on a Friday.....

or a Saturday or Sunday. Demand was so high for the 55's most plants were working 24-7. So I have read....

Edited by MrEarl (see edit history)
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Looks great, Mud

How hard is that after curing? Years ago I tried some of the available products, but they were too soft and the metal core just went through the rubber and chipped the paint when slammed. It needs to have hardness similar to other bumpers on doors and hood. I finally gave up and just used split vacuum tubing over the metal core...functional but not pretty.

Willie

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Looks great, Mud

How hard is that after curing? Years ago I tried some of the available products, but they were too soft and the metal core just went through the rubber and chipped the paint when slammed. It needs to have hardness similar to other bumpers on doors and hood. I finally gave up and just used split vacuum tubing over the metal core...functional but not pretty.

Willie

Time will tell, I will send you some if you want to try it. Mud

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You can catch all the How Mudbone Did It and other interesting videos of his at this Dyna1955 YouTube page https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCKsv3O6dNiselVW-h9pMhPA

Amazing, simply amazing!!!

Thanks, MrEarl

No, it is not amazing.

My videos are not meant to be a “how to” They are documenting the restoration. I try to do as much of the restoration as I possibly can. Not just to say I did it myself but to experience it. Enjoy the videos and comment if you like. Mud

Edited by Mudbone (see edit history)
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Mud, I will disagree and say it IS amazing. You would be finished with the restoration if you had not taken the time to set up the video camera, position everything just right, do a few dry runs, edit and convert for YouTube, up load to YouTube...over and over again.

Thank you.

And all that will live on unlike printed publications that are read once, are not searchable and are usually not available to the world.

Thank you!

Willie

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Thanks, MrEarl

No, it is not amazing.

My videos are not meant to be a “how to” They are documenting the restoration. I try to do as much of the restoration as I possibly can. Not just to say I did it myself but to experience it. Enjoy the videos and comment if you like. Mud

I have to agree with Old Tank. It is amazing. You are trying new things that help the greater good of the community. More importantly, you share what you have found to be a viable answer to some very hard questions. Sure, it is a simple bump stop to some. For others it is golden.

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Mud, I will disagree and say it IS amazing. You would be finished with the restoration if you had not taken the time to set up the video camera, position everything just right, do a few dry runs, edit and convert for YouTube, up load to YouTube...over and over again.

Thank you.

And all that will live on unlike printed publications that are read once, are not searchable and are usually not available to the world.

Thank you!

Willie

Well as you can tell by the videos, I don’t rehearse anything and I rarely do a second shot and sometimes I forget to turn the camera on. It really doesn’t take that long to film as I do it as I am working. I only edit it and upload it when I am too tired to do anything else or on Sundays when I am trying to rest my body.

My only regret is that I have hours of video of the Dynaflow rebuild but now it would be difficult to put it together in the right sequence. Maybe someday but it will take a lot of time. Mud

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And FYI Mud....

I watched your steering gear rebuild as a guide to my own project.

So many of these projects are wicked scary when you read how to do it in the shop manual, but after you see how it is done, it turns out to be easy.

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Today was Buick Saturday! I spent most of the day working on the trunk lid gaps. They are about as good as they are going to get. I had time to scuff the trunk lid and look for low spots. A little glazing putty will do the trick. It is amazing how good a panel looks in primer and then you hit it with the long block. Bam, there they are staring you right in the face!

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  • 4 months later...

Every time I am with Willie (Old Tank) I learn something new about 55 Buicks. I did not know that the rear 1/4 panel spear was different lengths depending if your car was solid or two tone below the glass. I was freaking out because my car was a solid color and I am painting it two tone. Of course these two pieces that I have are perfect and I would now have to find the correct ones. But, I looked at the photos of my car before I took it apart and I have the correct ones for the two tone. So now I am wondering why my car is different. Any Ideas?

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Willie is smart. BUT, I figu e like everything else, Buick used whatever parts they could pick up. Gotta figure it was less than an inch anyway. Slap it on!!!

Upon further review. What if it was an early vs. late thing. 54's couldn't be two tone.

Whatcha think?

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Every time I am with Willie (Old Tank) I learn something new about 55 Buicks. I did not know that the rear 1/4 panel spear was different lengths depending if your car was solid or two tone below the glass. I was freaking out because my car was a solid color and I am painting it two tone. Of course these two pieces that I have are perfect and I would now have to find the correct ones. But, I looked at the photos of my car before I took it apart and I have the correct ones for the two tone. So now I am wondering why my car is different. Any Ideas?

 

Hmmm........ :(

Like you Mud I hadn't realised the difference and seeing I am going from a solid color to two tone I will have to look into finding some as mine are the shorter ones.

Are 56 century special trims the same?

 

Anyone got a couple they want to sell? Guess I better run an ad in the wanted section.

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Left overs from 54?

No decision on tutone scheme?  Might think early had the pictured scheme, but I have seen later in the year 4 door hardtops (43,63) like the picture.

 

My originally single color convertible  had a long and short (factory or later installation?)

Willie

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I might have some longer ones. I will check once I get back home in a few weeks.

Thanks Mike..........hope you have luck in finding some.  BTW I have 2 perfect and polished short ones that would be surplus to me if you or anyone need them for a single color car :)

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  • 6 months later...

I finally have a free Saturday to get back to the Project66R. I carried the right front fender out of the basement to the garage and made a patch for the lower bottom corner. It is all welded in place and have a skim coat of filler on it. I am now tackling the headlight rim area as I did on the left. But I just realized I do not have enough material left off of the salvage fender to do the job. Anyone have a scrap fender left or right? I attached the photo of what I need. (This will be posted on the Sale and Wanted also)

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I would just fabricate that part, looks pretty simple

 

Might be harder if its tapered

 

Mick

Mick, I’m not too good at fabricating. I had such good results when I replaced the section on the left fender I wanted the easy way out. Mr. Earl came to my rescue and has a section on the way. Thanks, Mud

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Glad you found the part, certainly nothing wrong with doing it your way with an original piece. 

 

My point was, take some sheet metal the same/approx. thickness, WRAP/FORM it around a welding cylinder until you get the curve you like.  then take another flat piece of steel, and make the front bolt section, drill it like the other side, from a pattern.  Weld it to the curved part you had already made, grind the welds, weld in place.

 

Wishing you the best, I'm, NOT TRYING TO BE A KNOW IT ALL, 

 

Dale in Indy

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