smithbrother Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 (edited) Dad was a Buick dealership general manager, worked his way up from grease man, well one day he handed me a MINI DYNAFLOW piece. It was basically a miniature converter, as I recall it as approx. 6-8 inches in diameter, was made of SEE-THRU plastic, with COLORED fluid inside. It had as I recall a small crank on one side and a round disc or ball on the other side. You would crank it and FEEL THE TORQUE/PULL. I have looked for years to find one at a swap meet, but never have. You could see the vanes inside too. Do any of you have one, or recall seeing such?Dale in Indy Edited January 6, 2012 by smithbrother (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudbone Posted January 11, 2012 Author Share Posted January 11, 2012 OK, the good news, the bad news and then the good news. I did the pressure tests this morning. (The Good News) All pressures were in factory spec. Front pump, Drive, Low, Lube pressure, Reverse and stator functioned properly. Then I decided to check the rear pump. Instead of turning it with a speed handle and socket like the book shows, I used the man killer drill. (From behind you have to turn it counter clockwise) (The Bad News) I turned the drill on and in a few seconds it pulled the drill motor, way down and oil flew out of my band adjustment access hole and I shut it down. I had the selector in Reverse! (Dumb) (The book says put it in neutral) I shifted it to neutral and ran the test again. This time my rear pump pressure came up normally. I ran the all the tests again and now my Reverse pressure is half of what it was. I blew something out in the trans! (Oil flying out of the band adjust access hole was a clue) (The Good News) I drained out the oil and turned the trans upside down. After removing the valve body and identifying the reverse ports I inspected all the gaskets looking for a blown out area. I didn’t find anything at first. I then realized that the one gasket was barley covering the reverse pressure port. I got out the original gasket that was in the trans and it was the same, very close to the edge of the port. As they gave me multiple gaskets in the kit for different year cars I just matched up what came out. Wrong! It was the wrong gasket! I dug through the other new gaskets and found one to cover this area completely. By turning the rear pump while it was in reverse must have deadheaded the pump and blew out that small contact area of the gasket. It is better I find this out now than after it is in the car. Now I need to call and get some more gaskets and try again. Mud Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudbone Posted January 14, 2012 Author Share Posted January 14, 2012 Yes! New gaskets came this afternoon. I hope to have some good news by tommorow night. Mud Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudbone Posted January 15, 2012 Author Share Posted January 15, 2012 The dynaflow is back together and it works fine. A video will be coming soon! Mud Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudbone Posted January 15, 2012 Author Share Posted January 15, 2012 OK, here is the video. I had trouble recruiting much help so I did the best I could. (Dynaflow Pressure Testing) Mud Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
progoofoff Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 Very impressiveBob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick5563 Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 Very impressiveBobYep. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudbone Posted January 15, 2012 Author Share Posted January 15, 2012 These tests do not guarantee that the trans will work perfectly but I feel a lot more confident that it will. If anyone would like to use this setup, I would be willing to let any BCA member use it. Just pay shipping and insurance on it. Thanks, Mud Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1957buickjim Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 Mud, Great video! very cool. Love the test set up. Would like to see the "man killer" drill in the set up as well and how you attached it all for the running of the tests. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEarl Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 Ahhwsome!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 Great Video. I missed the part where you mentioned what the RPM of the trans was. Were you were able to go from Low to Reverse above the 450 idle without dropping the reverse band strut? Also was the oil passing the adjustment screw expected and normal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stealthbob Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 That was a very impressive demonstration...Makes me want to tackle my 54 Dynaflow.Thank you for taking the time to record that and share it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudbone Posted January 15, 2012 Author Share Posted January 15, 2012 Great Video. I missed the part where you mentioned what the RPM of the trans was. Were you were able to go from Low to Reverse above the 450 idle without dropping the reverse band strut? Also was the oil passing the adjustment screw expected and normal?The drill free speed is 450 rpm. It was pulling it way down in low and reverse. I doubt I had 350 rpm under load. The leakage you see coming up around the piston area is not piston leakage. When the drill stops the piston holds the lever until I shift it out of that gear. The valve body, with the selector spool and relief valves, are directly under these pistons. Any leakage around the spools and extra oil above relief pressure will be dumped in this area. I checked both pistons with air and they do not leak down. (You mentioned shifting from Low to Reverse above the 450 idle causing dropping the reverse band strut) Is this a common problem? I don’t think I had enough rpm to have this occur. Mud Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 I don't know how common it is. I know it happened to me. In that circumstance I was considerably above idle when it occurred. I know that now I wait till I have as slow an idle as possible before putting my 56 Super in reverse. I'm probably just gun-shy, and over cautious, bu 56 Roadmaster Model 72's are awful heavy to push by hand. On your video the screaming of the drill had me thinking it was spinning around 12 - 1500 RPM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudbone Posted January 15, 2012 Author Share Posted January 15, 2012 Mud, Great video! very cool. Love the test set up. Would like to see the "man killer" drill in the set up as well and how you attached it all for the running of the tests.OK, here is the man killer video. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudbone Posted January 23, 2012 Author Share Posted January 23, 2012 The Dynaflow is done except I am waiting for the correct torque converter cover bolts. It is time to start on that engine! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackofalltrades70 Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 Very nice and encouraging work. Kudos to you and the documentation for the rest of us. Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 The Dynaflow is done except I am waiting for the correct torque converter cover bolts. It is time to start on that engine!Mud, may I ask a favor? If you think it is original, can you post a close up pic of the color paint on you engine.? Is that the same color the 56 should be? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudbone Posted January 24, 2012 Author Share Posted January 24, 2012 Mud, may I ask a favor? If you think it is original, can you post a close up pic of the color paint on you engine.? Is that the same color the 56 should be?I thought all early V8’s were the same color. I found out that the engine is not a virgin. :mad: It has been apart before. I don’t think it has been repainted though. I am uploading a video right now of the first stage of disassembly. The valve covers may be the best color. When I find them I will get a picture. Mud Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudbone Posted January 24, 2012 Author Share Posted January 24, 2012 Here is the video. Mud Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick5563 Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 Mud,I don't wanna be a "change the oil and drive it guy", but when I rebuilt the engine out of Willie's parts car, there had obviously been rats living in the engine and peeing (etc) in the cylinders. There were giant pits in mine. That engine looks pretty darn good to me.Most of us (one person excepted whom I shan't name) rebuild our engines to specs that we will never need. I am not trying to talk you out of doing a fine job, but don't exceed the need. Triple check the bores, and reseal to prevent leaks. Just my opinion, others may vary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudbone Posted January 25, 2012 Author Share Posted January 25, 2012 I definitely have to shift gears on this engine. I spent 20 + years rebuilding mostly Ag diesel engines with a few gas and automotive engines mixed in. Diesel engines are very un-forgiving when it comes to tolerances as far as cylinder wall wear. (They just won’t start when they’re cold) On the other hand the last engine I worked on was our 1926 Model T Ford. They will run fine with a lot of slop in the cylinders. When I get her all torn down I will see what needs to be replaced. Mud Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Rob McDonald Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 Rebuilding my Buick's engine was the most satisfying chore of my time in this hobby. Deciding what's okay and what needs replacing is something that's learned only by experience. I sought lots of grey-haired advice at the time. It ended up needing pistons, lifters, some valves, and a camshaft. I think the crank was pretty good. Getting all those clean lumps and bits back from the machine shop was like Christmas morning. That was close to 30 years ago.As I put it all back together, I made a fuss about painting everything as correctly as I could. The original-type decals and stickers weren't really available then. In the ensuing decades, antifreeze and brake fluid leaks and the simple march of time have taken their toll on the cosmetics. I still haven't driven the car a hundred miles. Now the engine looks about right for a good used car - which is the standard that I eventually hope to achieve. Not judge-worthy, just respectable and fun.I've rebuilt a couple of engines since then, neither of which needed as much work as this 364. They were all good experiences and none have since failed. Guess I'm just careful enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 My older boy and I took a shot at replacing bearings in an 87 3.8 V6 once. Although I've watched this done by others this was really my first attempt. It lasted one month and then started knocking. We never did tear it down again so I don't know where we went wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudbone Posted January 27, 2012 Author Share Posted January 27, 2012 I found more crud in the block! Mud Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Rob McDonald Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 What do you Illinoisians use for antifreeze - maple syrup? The innards of my nailhead (and my '56 Dodge 270 and my '73 MGB 1800) didn't look anything like that.By the way, what does a machine shop do when they "boil out" or "hot tank" an engine block? Do they use a special solution and does it really involve heating to boiling temperature? I've had this done to each of the engines I've work on but never thought to ask the shop what they actually did. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smithbrother Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 Well, the shop here in Indy that I have seen HOT TANK blocks, DOES use a special cleaner, and it DOES get SUPER HOT. When they open the door, steam ROLLS out. I would assume such is norm.Dale in Indy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stealthbob Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 When my block was "Boiled" I did not see what was done, but I did see what was left and that was bare cast metal!I was very impressed with what I saw...looked like a new casting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudbone Posted January 28, 2012 Author Share Posted January 28, 2012 I just got back from power washing the block and heads. I had a brown river flowing out of the water jackets! I hope to get it over to the machine shop this week for further evaluation and cost. At the very least I want the block and heads boiled out so no hidden crud will spoil the rebuild. Mud Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick5563 Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 I agree 100%. I wasn't trying to talk you out of it. Keep it up Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudbone Posted January 29, 2012 Author Share Posted January 29, 2012 Is it wrong to love your sand blast cabinet? It makes things go from ugly to pretty in a matter of minutes. Mud Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 Is it wrong to love your sand blast cabinet? It makes things go from ugly to pretty in a matter of minutes. Mud...almost driver quality Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick5563 Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 Is it wrong to love your sand blast cabinet? No. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudbone Posted January 29, 2012 Author Share Posted January 29, 2012 I have a lot more wear on the rocker arms than I thought. It looks like the push rods were not turning on about half of them. Mud Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Rob McDonald Posted February 6, 2012 Share Posted February 6, 2012 Tool love is a natural urge for healthy men. Don't be ashamed but keep it private. At various times, I've been smitten with my Sawzall, my cordless drywall screwdriver, and the coolest brake assembly tool. The love of my life though remains my table saw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smithbrother Posted February 6, 2012 Share Posted February 6, 2012 Having worked for Tractor Supply for 15 years, owning my own True Value hardware for nearly 25 years, well, it was a natural to collect NEEDED tools.If I were to put a finger on my prized tool/tools, well, it would be my 65 year old cast iron Delta/Milwaukee 14" floor band saw. It has a gear reduction, so will cut both wood, and metal, it just won't quit. One cheap power tool I find myself using DAILY is a 1" X 30" bench belt sander. The tasks are endless that it performs, and it too just won't quit. Dale in Indy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudbone Posted February 11, 2012 Author Share Posted February 11, 2012 I received a call from the machine shop today. They said it would take at least .030 oversize to clean up the block. (They will do a rough cut and call me) And they will have to go .010 under on the crank. He said whomever did the engine work last time cut the ridge too deep with the ridge reamer. (That is why I thought it was in pretty good shape as there was no ring ridge) Ca-ching $$$$$$ Mud Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stealthbob Posted February 11, 2012 Share Posted February 11, 2012 Just think of all that extra horsepower! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudbone Posted February 11, 2012 Author Share Posted February 11, 2012 Anybody know what cubic inch increase that would be? 322 + .030 over? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stealthbob Posted February 11, 2012 Share Posted February 11, 2012 (edited) My Math says that it was originally 321.536 cu in...with the 0.030 over bore it would be 326.377.That in HP is debatable but it seems that it would be anywhere from 5-8 hp Edited February 11, 2012 by stealthbob (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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