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1989 Buick reatta problem HELP


Guest diesel991

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Guest diesel991

My car runs well but has electrical issues, the car does not communicate with the computer so it says VEHICLE COMPUTER COMMUNICATION PROBLEM DETECTED" help! thnaks where and what do i look for? thanks

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First step would be to check and make sure cover is on the ALDL connector. It is under the dash near the parking brake.

Then disconnect the battery and re-connect after a minute or so. See if the problem reappears. If it does then check for trouble codes stored in the computer. Instruction on how to do that can be found on ReattaOwner.com

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First step would be to check and make sure cover is on the ALDL connector. It is under the dash near the parking brake.

Then disconnect the battery and re-connect after a minute or so. See if the problem reappears. If it does then check for trouble codes stored in the computer. Instruction on how to do that can be found on ReattaOwner.com

Let's see if a photo will explain it better.

post-52331-143138346055_thumb.jpg

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If you have a U-Pull yard around, note that some late '80s/early '90s Cadillacs have the same cover. Probably Olds too. The proper cover has a metal shorting jumper between pins L and M. (The two on the lower right side of the connector.)

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Guest diesel991

My car stopped running, i hope this cover fixes my issues. I will go out and find one tomorrow AM see if i can get it to start since all it does is crank and it wont fire up. I left it at a convenience store tonight

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Guest diesel991
If you have a U-Pull yard around, note that some late '80s/early '90s Cadillacs have the same cover. Probably Olds too. The proper cover has a metal shorting jumper between pins L and M. (The two on the lower right side of the connector.)

i will see if i can temporarily run a resistor between said pins. Do you happen to have a picture? or more info? maybe i can get a temporary fix since im missing the cover

Thanks!!!

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I got a cover off a cadillac, where are the metal pins supposed to go? Which is l and m
It depends on the model of your Reatta.

Please add the model of your Reatta, (and any other relative information), to your signature line or include it with all your questions. It will make it easier for us to help answer your questions without repeatedly asking you about the specific model you own.

Click "User CP" in the menu at the top of this page and scroll down to "Edit Signature"

Thanks!

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Guest diesel991

I'm sorry to be so annoying oi will update when I get home. Its a 1989 ratta coupe v6 vin is 1g4ec11cokb903196 not sure what else I need

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Guest diesel991

I'm on my phone. The car is running now, it was a bad crank pos sensor still trying to figure out the position of the pins on the cover

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I got a cover off a cadillac, where are the metal pins supposed to go? Which is l and m

Looking at the connector, pins L and M are the rightmost two on the bottom row.

If you have the correct cap, it will already have the pins (actually a U-shaped bar) built into it.

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Guest diesel991
ALDL photo from 1989 FSM might help.

based on that picture its the top right connectors that need that metal insert because mine is mounted horizontally. i will try to reset the computer and insert that cover to see what happens

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Guest diesel991

hey guys, thanks for all the help. This car seems to be a nightmare. The new aldl cover did nothing, the car still runs poorly. The car has a "communication problem" among a few other issues. The car will work when it wants to. I notice when i start it, it runs at high rpms and the odometer, speedometer, rpm gauge and temp gauge dont work. when i drive the car sometimes the speedometer will randomly start to work, along with the rpm gauge, temp and odometer. When they start to work the car has more power and idles normally. EVERY single time the computer starts to read info, there is a new message that says (engine control problems detected electrical issues) and well check engine is still on as always. i had a few issues recently, the glove box broke and im now in the market for a new handle, the radio has loud static and popping noises sounds like two wires are touching i cant listen to music and the car sputters and stalls when it wants to. anmy info? still have same problems

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That many problems is usually a grounding issue and a car from the rust belt. Make sure you check both ends of the big ground cable to the block for white powder and the body connections behind the battery.

Bad grounds can also cause voltage spikes and the electronics really do not like those.

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Guest Mc_Reatta

Just had same problem with mine. Would display Vehicle Communication Problem and throw a BCM 334 code. So check your codes.

When in this state, odometer, speedometer, tach, and temp gauge don't work, and you drop out of closed loop operation.

ECM is not processing the signals that the BCM is sending. Dropped the ECM down from behind the glove box and checked the data lines from the BCM to the center plug on the ECM. No problem with the wires or connection.

Turns out it was a faulty connection inside the ECM. Could make it come and go by rapping the ECM sharply while driving.

New ECM was called for. Took advantage of the great discounts at Advanced Auto and got a refurbished Cardone at 40% off by ordering online and picking up at the nearest store that had one in stock.

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Guest diesel991

thanks guys will continue to check the car will start at the grounds. The codes im getting are B334, B552 history, C553 History B441 History (all of the history codes have an H next to the numbers)

Edited by diesel991 (see edit history)
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Guest Mc_Reatta

Same exact issue I had.

FSM page 8D2-34 says to check pins 2A8 and 9 on the middle plug of the ECM (tan and tan/white wires) and see if you can cause the problem to appear or disappear.

I dropped the ECM down and reconnected on the floor of the passenger's footwell.

While it is loose, remove the cover and remove and replace the PROM to ensure it has a good connection.

Reconnect the plugs to the ECM and fire up the car. Use some electronic contact cleaner if they look dirty.

Sometimes my car would go a mile or so before it would happen, then it got worse so it would start soon after the engine fired up.

Wiggle those data link wires on the middle plug to see if the problem comes and goes.

This had no affect on mine, but if I hit the metal case sharply with an umbrella I carry in the car while I was driving, I could correct the problem, and if I hit it again, the problem would return indicating a probable cracked trace on the PC or cold solder joint.

I was out of working spares so I found the best place to get an ECM is to go to Advance Auto's online site and search for the engine computer for your 89 Reatta. Put in your zip code and search your nearby stores to see who has one in stock.

Place the online order and select pick up in store so you don't pay for shipping. If you don't have any nearby, I call the store and have them bring one in from the warehouse. Once it hits their inventory then place the order so you can use the discount code to get 40% off.

Good thing with this problem is it won't leave you stranded until you can get it fixed.

Edited by Mc_Reatta (see edit history)
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Guest diesel991

hey guys so far no luck with this nightmare. The car runs trerribly sputters computer issues etc. Also i cant listen to music because the speakers give off a loud popping sounds, replaced speakers still giving off terrible sounds, any other ways of fixing this problematica car?

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hey guys, thanks for all the help. This car seems to be a nightmare. The new aldl cover did nothing, the car still runs poorly. The car has a "communication problem" among a few other issues. The car will work when it wants to. I notice when i start it, it runs at high rpms and the odometer, speedometer, rpm gauge and temp gauge dont work. when i drive the car sometimes the speedometer will randomly start to work, along with the rpm gauge, temp and odometer. When they start to work the car has more power and idles normally. EVERY single time the computer starts to read info, there is a new message that says (engine control problems detected electrical issues) and well check engine is still on as always. i had a few issues recently, the glove box broke and im now in the market for a new handle, the radio has loud static and popping noises sounds like two wires are touching i cant listen to music and the car sputters and stalls when it wants to. anmy info? still have same problems
I agree with Dave. One problem at a time until you get it corrected.

You are sending mixed signals about the problem. Your original post in this thread was:

My car runs well but has electrical issues, the car does not communicate with the computer so it says VEHICLE COMPUTER COMMUNICATION PROBLEM DETECTED" help! thnaks where and what do i look for? thanks
Now you are telling us it runs poorly and is a nightmare. That changes the playing field for finding the problem. I thought you were having an occasional computer communication problem that can be just the ALDL cover but the ALDL cover does not cause a poor running engine along with all the other issues with the engine you describe. In your future posts it would help us help you if you could clearly state the problem and give us details about the symptoms you are experiencing. And as Dave said, one problem at a time.
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Guest diesel991

ok guys heres the update: the car has new plugs, wires pcv valve Seafoam treatment and i fixed the poor connection on the ecm (was causing communication problem) so now the car runs great. I just have one problem now and that is the display shows (engine controls problem detected) what would you guys suggest is the next step? thanks

Edit: will get codes too in a bit, just wondering what could cause that engine controls problem to come on>> also fixing the communication controls fixed the RPM speedometer and temp gauges

Edited by diesel991 (see edit history)
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Guest Mc_Reatta

Highly recommend cleaning the connections at the common ground points as well as the battery cable connections.

Take apart and clean the dirt and corrosion off of each of the lugs and reconnect. I like to use a Dremel tool with a brass or wire brush. YMMV

Ronnie shows the most important one at: Negative Junction Box Location - ReattaOwner.com

Refer to page 8A-14-15 in the 89 FSM which lists them and the reference to the drawing in the pages 201 section which will show where the are located.

Doing this along with checking the ALDL is in place will keep you from chasing red herrings around and around.

Bad splices and poorly grounded circuits are the cause of so many of the electrical problems we face.

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