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I just priced PPG BC for my 55 Century. One Gal of Red is $715.00. This does not include the reducer. And I was told that is with my discount. Any color other than red comes in at about $375.00. I always wanted to use the best products possible but now I am thinking of using the PPG OMNI line. Any thoughts on the mater? Mudbone

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I just priced PPG BC for my 55 Century. One Gal of Red is $715.00. This does not include the reducer. And I was told that is with my discount. Any color other than red comes in at about $375.00. I always wanted to use the best products possible but now I am thinking of using the PPG OMNI line. Any thoughts on the mater? Mudbone

I think I'd be looking at another supplier real quick!

You need to take a look at this link where you'll find detailed pricing on several PPG products mixed for the correct red for a 1955 Buick. You might also want to compare prices with their "house" brand.

AutoColorLibrary - Color Chip Selection

I should also mention that "OMNI" is considered as PPG's "B" grade product line. Much in the same fashion that Nasson paints are DuPont's "B" grade product line.

Jim

Edited by Jim_Edwards
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Reds are expensive regardless of paint manufacturer and many of the BC/CC reds are semi transparent. Going to Omni or Nason will reduce cost but be careful to check for transparency. While it may be less expensive you may need more to cover. A single stage should reduce costs and bring the paints appearance more in line to the original. appearance. Pay particular attention to the sealer color . There may be a recommended color to apply the red over. This will help with the coverage issue.

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Look at it this way. Your car will be leading a sheltered life after being painted and the OMNI line is probably better than their best paint a few years ago.

Willie

How very true! Far better than those used "back when" and yet we every so often see cars today with original 50 or 60 year old original paint that still looks great.

If doing a car from the '50s or early '60s I still prefer using acrylic lacquer or acrylic enamel paint because I think they look more nearly luster correct for cars of those times. I have this thing about an overly glossy '50s or '60s car. Just doesn't look right! Almost as wrong as 22" cast aluminum Conestoga Wagon wheels looks on them.

Jim

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I would think that if the paints matched color-wise, that you couldn't tell the difference, mostly because the engine compartment and trunk are dark. I painted my firewall in single stage about a year before I had my car painted base / clear. It was a different paint from the same supplier. I've never thought about it until you asked, so certainly it is close enough for me.

For the most part, I think you are over thinking it, Ken. Not that I don't do the same thing every day :D .

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I keep telling myself that this will be a driver. My main concern is durability. I want it to maintain its looks for years to come. As it most likely won't see any bad weather it would be better than original no matter what system I use. I want to get the firewall painted soon so I can get the body back on the frame. I want to fit all the panels before paint. Thanks, Mudbone

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My main concern is durability. I want it to maintain its looks for years to come. As it most likely won't see any bad weather it would be better than original no matter what system I use. I want to get the firewall painted soon......

Even if it did see bad weather, how much rain, sleet and snow would the firewall get? :D

Sorry, can't help on your TCP question.

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Ken,

If you have been using PPG product to this point stick with it. That extra cash will seem like nothing and you will wish you spent it if the other product wrinkles or peals off the primer/sealer.

I have been using the PPG shopline up to this point and have been extremely happy with it.

As for single stage matching BS/CC it depends on the color, weather it's metallic, etc. With a straight red if your supplier has the mixing recipe for both you will probably be fine. As mike indicated those areas are low light low visability and nobody will know the difference.

My 2cents,

Rich

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Look at it this way. Your car will be leading a sheltered life after being painted and the OMNI line is probably better than their best paint a few years ago.

Willie

That's my opinion. Whatever paint - like motor oil - is going to be way better then what was put on in 1955, 1975 etc so using a gnerally recognized high quality paint should work.

I can't afford $725 a gallon, personally. IF I could I would still hesitate. Proper prep, good application and buffing will get good results. (great results)

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I finally made a paint brand decision. My neighbor owns and runs his own body shop nearby. He has already done some work on my left ¼ panel as it was dinged pretty well in the rear. He uses PPG Global system and mixes his own paint. He will most likely be painting the exterior panels on the car, as I am not convinced I can make my garage dust free. I will do all of the priming, blocking and fitting panels as well as painting the firewall, trunk area and under side of hood, trunk and all the small parts. He said he would mix up a QT of BC/CC and get me all the right products to do the firewall and trunk area. That way I am staying with the same line of paint and should not have any reaction problems with primers and sealers. I will be saving about 1/3 the cost over the auto parts store. The color scheme will be White/RED/White (Cherokee/Torch Red) and Dover) I am going to pick it up in the morning right after I go to the BANK! Later, Mudbone

Edited by Mudbone (see edit history)
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