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JustJordy

Seeking HiComp 1965 330 Engine or Crankshaft & Advice on Engine ID

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I'm not a Newbie to Oldsmobiles, but this is my first Classic or Vintage Olds and since I've always been a Chevy man with the exception of my 58 Buick and my GMCs, I'm ignorant regarding early small blocks, however I'm reading great stuff about the 330 engine which is what's in my 65 Cutlass Convertible.

The restoration done in the early 80s was well documented and the car was in storage for almost 2 decades but unfortunately the heir to the collector's estate is clueless, and I've found nothing indicating that anything was done except cosmetic work. I've not uncovered the codes on the right head yet because of the power steering pump brackets as I am driving the car for inspections, tire installation etc, but the casting on the front of the block shows to be a 66-67 394417 39° cam bank angle according to what I've read, so I'm asking for assistance. The number that's easily visible on mine is 394417 3 and my question for you experts is... COULD THIS BE THE CORRECT NUMBERS MATCHING ENGINE FOR A LATE PRODUCTION LANSING MICH 65 CUTLASS CONVERTIBLE, or has the engine been changed out? Everything indicates this is an original 66,000 mile car including the title and assurances of the seller and their agent, and I first became alarmed and concerned when my Carb guy said that this has a 67 W-30 Quadrajet which he's rebuilding and setting up for my small block since it ran really rich, leaked all over the place and loaded up on occasion. Tank and fuel lines were flushed and we're double filtering pre pump and in carb.

Engine ID numbers on heads makes no sense to me because you can change out the heads easily, so how do I figure this out guys?

If this isn't the correct engine for my car I want to acquire one eventually so I'll be on the hunt, and I want the best heads which are the 330 with a #4 stamp correct??? I've acquired some already so I hope so! LOL

I'll have them ported polished with the larger stainless valves and hardened ex seats and keep driving with no down time, and those are the heads I have on the engine now too. Or, what about the Edelbrock aluminum with their intake?? Any feedback or advice since that's bolt on out of the box and can be as good of a deal depending on how much you spend upgrading yours? This is a driver, investment, local car show fun toy, but I want some things as close to original or kept easily restore-able for purist and value reasons. http://multiply.com/mu/justjordy2/image/1/photos/50/800x800/20/17-10-10-1642.jpg?et=NJ2zBff%2CZqSnUGr8tF7F6A&nmid=376555438

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...the casting on the front of the block shows to be a 66-67 394417 39° cam bank angle according to what I've read, so I'm asking for assistance. The number that's easily visible on mine is 394417 3 and my question for you experts is... COULD THIS BE THE CORRECT NUMBERS MATCHING ENGINE FOR A LATE PRODUCTION LANSING MICH 65 CUTLASS CONVERTIBLE, or has the engine been changed out?

Well, the first problem is that there are no numbers to "match" on the block, since Olds didn't start stamping a VIN derivative on the block until the 1968 model year. The engine unit number on the head is traceable to the VIN if you have the Protect-O-Plate, otherwise it's meaningless. As you note, the heads could have been changed anyway. The block casting does show as a 1966-67 motor, so it's doubtful that you have the original block anyway. Even if you did have the correct block casting number, all that would prove is that you have the correct casting for your year car. There were probably several hundred thousand blocks cast with that same casting number, so it still could have been a replacement. There is no way to prove that a block is original to the car prior to the 1968 model year.

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Well, the first problem is that there are no numbers to "match" on the block, since Olds didn't start stamping a VIN derivative on the block until the 1968 model year. The engine unit number on the head is traceable to the VIN if you have the Protect-O-Plate, otherwise it's meaningless. As you note, the heads could have been changed anyway. The block casting does show as a 1966-67 motor, so it's doubtful that you have the original block anyway. Even if you did have the correct block casting number, all that would prove is that you have the correct casting for your year car. There were probably several hundred thousand blocks cast with that same casting number, so it still could have been a replacement. There is no way to prove that a block is original to the car prior to the 1968 model year.

I was noticing parts often say not for Pre 67 and I was aware there was a cam angle difference and felt it would be best to know which engine I have, and the only thing I can see on the heads so far is the #4 and I'm certain the Carb is wrong, but it's way better so I'm not complaining, so I had pretty much decided it probably wasn't the original engine and it wasn't a one owner car by any stretch of the imagination. This car could have a 6 cylinder and a three speed on the tree and I'd never complain. The only surprises were good ones with the exception of the possible engine difference, but if they all have good web mains and forged cranks I don't suppose it really matters as long as it's a 330! Thank you for your help on this. The plate is intact as is 99% of this car, so I'll check the head codes when I get it dismantled.

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the best heads which are the 330 with a #4 stamp correct??? I've acquired some already so I hope so! LOL

I'll have them ported polished with the larger stainless valves and hardened ex seats and keep driving with no down time, and those are the heads I have on the engine now too. Or, what about the Edelbrock aluminum with their intake?? Any feedback or advice since that's bolt on out of the box and can be as good of a deal depending on how much you spend upgrading yours?

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