new owner

[Guest clint50]

I'm a new Reatta owner with the same budget problems as most everybody else.It seems that while waiting for me to get on with refurbishing my car, the fuel pump has decided to quit working. I'm no mechanic but the motor isn'tt getting fuel and everything else seems to be intact. Is there any way to tell for sure if it's the pump,can only afford to do this once! If I need a pump,which one?,lots of pumps for sale all different prices? Do you think I would be able to do this repair myself? I was told that the tank has to come out,then someone else said to hook an electric pump inline? Would prefer advice from somebody familiar with Reattas. Oh yes, the car ran fine and was started every week then just quit.It starts right up with fluid sprayed into intake. Thanks for your help. Clint

[padgett]

Depends on the year which pump. Can take line loose at filter and apply 12v to prime connector (with a pan underneath) and find out if works. I use only AC pumps.

[jonlabree]

Have you checked the relay or the filter???

[Guest clint50]

Thanks for the replies. My Reatta is a 1990.Neighbor checked the relay and fuse box,I'm not sure about the filter. I plan on trying both suggestions this weekend. I'll let you know how it works out. Thanks Again!

[Guest Double M]

Hey Clint! I too am a new owner on a budget. I have a 90 Coupe. I won it on ebay for $1145. I can tell you that The Reatta pays for itself in more than just miles. I have found it to be a car worthy of waiting for & saving for the parts or to figure out this or that. It can seem complicated, but after awhile I can see it being understandable. I look at it this way, I get to drive a car that cost $30,000 for a fraction of what it cost and I have this great community of other Reatta Heads to keep me going!

Good luck with the new ride!

[Jim]

Since it started and ran good before but just stopped I would suspect the fuel pump rather than the filter although the filter would be the first item to replace. They are fairly cheap. The engine requires over 40 pounds of pressure to run. If you can find someone with a pressure gauge you can put it on the Shraeder valve on the fuel rail. Cycle the key a few times and read the pressure.

There is a single green connector on the fender well on the drivers side just forward of the strut tower. There is nothing plugged into this connector but if you put 12V on that connector the pump will run. Someone suggested putting 12V on the pump to see if it is pumping. It probably will but you have to have at least 40# of pressure.

I had one car that had 37# and it would not run.

To remove the tank you have to disconnect the fuel lines just ahead of the rear wheel, remove the stabilizer bar and the tank straps.

If the tank has a lot of gas in it, it will be heavy but you can get the fuel out ahead of time by disconnecting the fuel line at the engine, adding a piece of tubing to a can and putting 12V on the green connector.

[waltmail]

There is a single green connector on the fender well on the drivers side just forward of the strut tower. There is nothing plugged into this connector but if you put 12V on that connector the pump will run.

If the tank has a lot of gas in it, it will be heavy but you can get the fuel out ahead of time by disconnecting the fuel line at the engine, adding a piece of tubing to a can and putting 12V on the green connector.

Thanks for the tip on the fuel pump energizer connector. I'll be using that one some day.

[padgett]

Can also check for continuity through the pump at the connector. If over about 100 ohms have either a wiring problem or a burnt out pump (rare). If continuity with 12v applied someone with good hearing at the rear wheel well should hear the pump humming.