Jump to content

Will Mustang wheels fit?


Recommended Posts

Are they real Mustang wheels or aftermarket ? What year Mustang (1994-up is best fit) ? What is the size including the bolt circle, offset, and hub diameter ?

Have heard arguments both way but most of the nay-sayers do not seem to have tried it. OTOH a F*rd bolt circle is 114.3mm and GM is 115 but should be ok if the hub centers properly which brings us back to the first paragraph.

FYI a typical GM 16x7 has a 5x115mm bolt pattern, 46-51mm offset though 38 is O.K. and 70.3mm hub. All are important. Am finding the snowflakes (cross-laced) I like for $80 a set and given a choice prefer factory wheels.

Or, insufficient data.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks stock - size is usually cast on the back of the ribs. Also if the center is a standard 2 1/8" snap in you have a lot of choices there.

That a cellphone photo, can't really tell very much.

Link to post
Share on other sites

According to my notes, the late Mustang factory wheel uses a 70.3mm hub the same as a Reatta (why I asked if factory or aftermarket - aftermarket wheels often drill an 80 mm hub to fit the maximum number of different cars). 114.3 bolt circle is about .015" off a 115 so a hub that is too large could allow an offset that would vibrate.

There are shims (usually plastic that disintegrate but some are metal) that fit in the hub opening of the wheel to adapt a large opening to a smaller hub. Look for "hub centering rings".

I have passed on nice wheels before because the hubs did not match because there are pleanty of factory wheels around that are right in 16x7 (Bonneville), 16x8 (Grand Prix), or 17x7 (Lucerne).

Then again, I have heard more people swear by the Mustang wheel than swear at them and they do look nice.

The big problem is filling the wheel whell which is designed to allow people to fit tire chains.

Edited by padgett (see edit history)
Link to post
Share on other sites

In other words, when tightened, the studs bent and the hub kept the wheel centered while doing so (why the hub is so important). Only tighten to factory specs, do not play Godzilla.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for all the advice guys. I appreciate it.

The wheels were not "chrome" as advertised. They were not off a '97 either. They were off a 2001. They are machined alloys and almost look like chrome from 10 feet. I thought they looked good so I bought them.

The fit without any problems. I did feel a difference when tightening the lugs versus the Reatta wheels. I guess it was the lug bolt flexing to fit the holes in the Mustang wheels. I drive it around town for a little while ant then hit the Interstate. At 85 mph I couldn't detect anything unusual such as vibration or ill handling.

I like the way they look. I think they give the Reatta a wider, lower looking stance. Compare the photos with the stock look of my Reatta in my signature line photo. What do you guys think?

post-52331-143138312286_thumb.jpg

post-52331-14313831229_thumb.jpg

Edited by Ronnie (see edit history)
Link to post
Share on other sites
Any chance of the lugs developing fatigue cracks?
I guess it is possible but I don't expect it to be a problem. Fatigue cracks occur when something is flexing back and forth repeatedly.

The center hole seemed to be the same as the Reatta wheel. I couldn't do an accurate measurement with my dial calipers but measuring with a rule the holes appeared to be the same. The load on the wheel should be carried by the hub and not just the lug bolts. I will be watching it for a while to see if I notice anything unusual going on.

Link to post
Share on other sites

The bore at the wheel stud is only about .014" off. (.7mm/25.4/2). Suspect aftermarket mfrs might split the middle and only be .007" off for either.

Incidently 114.3mm is really 4.5" & is a common size (just not for GM).

Link to post
Share on other sites

There is some clearance between the hub and the wheel. So it's the stud and not the hub that's under stress. As a result, I would machine out the wheel lug holes to an oval shape for stress relief. You can use a compass or template to trace the two bolt patterns onto one diagram to create the optimum lug opening.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Ronnie, I think you did well. They look great.

My first aftermarket wheels that I put on my car were 5 spoke American Racing wheels that are very similar to your Mustang wheels. Since I got my "new" Buick rims, I put the AR wheels on my Black.

If you remember F67 used Mustang wheels and he probably rode his car harder then you ever will and he never talked about problems [other then he was looking for a Buick center emblem].

There are only two things I don't like about the Reatta. The pop up headlights and the wheels. And you took care of the wheels!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Dave, I really like the new Buick wheels like you got the best but, as usual, I went the cheap route. I'm very happy with the wheels I got at $200.00 for the wheels with 225 - 55 tires mounted on them. At least I thought it was a good deal. Bought them from an individual locally so no shipping cost or tax was involved. Tires still have about 50% tread left on them. They should last me a long time driving the car just a few times a month.

Link to post
Share on other sites

$200.00 is a very good deal. Let's break the deal down.

Around here the best I can do at mounting and balancing is $10.00 a wheel.

If I am lucky and they just get in a set of tires at the local u-pick [never in 16" or 17"] they cost $60.00 for all 4. That would be $100.00. So that means you bought the rims for $100.00.

You should easily be able to sell them for that one day [if you want to...]

Pretty good deal I would say.

And in my opinion a little "shine" on these cars is a good thing. Course I am a product of the '60s where there was a lot more chrome...

Link to post
Share on other sites

I am funny about used tires unless just 1 or 2 years old. Agree they are not cheap particularly in "interesting" sizes but prefer a set of bare rims then hie to Sam's for either Michelins or BFGs (same company and made in the USA) when they go on sale 2-3 times a year.

Have two sets of 16x7 rims sitting here now I have not decided what to do with but both sets were under $100. My issue is that tires here usually age before they wear out. Judge had 7/32 or more left on all four but were 1993 vintage I bought new so used tires with any age are right out for me.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I was too until that Gov't program "Cash for Clunkers." I just couldn't pass up what was coming thru. I learned to read the manufactuers age code and bought brand new tires 4 for $60.00. And I mean brand new. They were less then 1 year old and the tread depth was brand new specs.

My newest son in law works for a parts distributer and I get closeouts [like my latest 16" purchase] 4 for $185.00 [Coopers]

I try not to buy anything unless it falls into my lap [which means typically a good deal].

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...