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Radiator Relay


Guest Lisa Courtney

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Guest Lisa Courtney

I pulled my Reatta out of the garage to change all the fluids and noticed that the fan doesn't stay running. If I am not mistaken it came on when I turned the key on before. I watched it several times as cranking the car and it turns when I start the car but winds down to a stop, so I let the car get to temp and it will not come back on so my thought are it may be the relay? Any suggestions on what I should test? Where is the relay located?

Thanks

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Is the a/c on ? Otherwise the fan circuit should be off when driving but there may be a POST check (never looked) on startup. You can use the ECM outputs (EO09 and EO10) in diagnostics to force the fans on and off & check the circuits.

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Guest Lisa Courtney

Thanks Padgett I will have to pull her out in the next couple of days and obviously do some more investigating.

Should the fan come on at a certain temp?

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Guest Mc_Reatta

Believe the start-up diagnostic test does exercise the quad drivers which control the fans so they probably do spin up for that.

If you find either one doesn't run, it is most likely a bad relay.

There are 3 of them and they are in the underhood relay center which is at the front driver's side behind the washer bottle and the air cleaner box.

All the relays in there are identical so you can check them out by swapping them around and see if one problem goes away and another crops up. The other two are for the horns and the AC clutch.

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Guest Lisa Courtney

Thank you both, I will check all the above. I did put a thermistate on it last summer cause I felt like it was running to hot when at an idle. It never ran hot but when idling at a light with the air on it to elevated over 200 and I had the engine flushed to which they done a poor job so I brought it home and done it myself till both the engine and radiator ran water like fresh spring water. Then I filled it with coolant and put a 185 thermistate on it. the car doesn't have but 36,000 mies on it so I am trying to make sure and always be observing of temps and such.

The weather is pretty hot here in Colorado during summer months. What would a normal temp be for idling at a stop with air on.

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Guest Lisa Courtney

OH and one issue I do have is my diagnostic center fuzzes at times I need to get it rebuilt, I could do it myself if someone know how and could share that info. Then maybe I wouldn't be so nervous about temps and what is going on if I can see it on the diagnostic center. It is in and out so fuzzes just like a tv so that is why I am not knowing about these other issues (if there is even any issues) May just be I baby it to much :)

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Guest Mc_Reatta

Your temps were not out of line. With a stock thermostat, at 90 F ambient, I see 197 when I'm rolling. When stopped at a normal light, temp creeps up to 201 to 203 and that's with the AC on. Left idling for more than a couple of minutes the temp will keep climbing.

I'm working on an special connector that will cause the fans to run on high all the time whenever the ECM commands them on at any speed.

That should help both the engine temp and the AC outlet temp to stay low in stop and go traffic at low speeds.

Your problem with the CRT may just be a bad connection on the video cables from the CRTC to the CRT. Particularly the coax cable which carries the horizontal signal.

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Didn't say it wasn't stock, the general doesn't get bothered until over 230F. Of course they do not warrent things for 20+ years either.

Been running my cars cool for multiple decades now and everything under the hood lasts longer. Of course I also keep cars way past the sell-by date.

Know it is un-American but I see no reason why a properly maintained car shouldn't last forever.

Heck, next year my newest will qualify for antique insurance...

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Guest Lisa Courtney

Okay then I was panicking for nothing, I have checked all relays and they are good. I finally figured to turn the fan on on the CTR screen and it works fine. I was a little low on water and that due to flushing out the engine and radiator then when putting on the hose at the bottom of the radiator it was not tightened properly and I was dripping water. I am going to run it tomorrow and try to see how high it will go and see if it will turn on by itself at a certain temp 213 as stated above. I have never seen it that high on temp as of yet.

Thanks everyone (better safe than sorry)

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Guest Lisa Courtney

Your problem with the CRT may just be a bad connection on the video cables from the CRTC to the CRT. Particularly the coax cable which carries the horizontal signal.

A question for this.

Do these coax cable run under the dash (glove box) I have that out now due to replacing the computer. I had it diagnosed and the outcome was the computer wasn't sending messages to the injectors as needed. I still have a slight miss at times. after changing the computer. ( runs fine down the road) Just when idling or slowing it does this. I am sure it is something very minor but with just me taking my car to someone to change the tires the tech drug his foot over the rubber in the door and made a break in the rubber. I was HOT ! So I now figure doing everything myself will be better if able to figure it out. I would rather be the one to break something, not to mention they would be safer too :)

Another issue.......

I noticed a black (looks like wire but is actually some sort of compressed air line under the glove box and if I move it it hisses like leaking air. At the very tip it has a clear boot shaped like an L to which is going into some sort of box with other wires. Does anyone know what that is. I think I may have made it leak when putting the computer in. The only way I hear it is if I move it. If left alone it does not seem to be hissing air.

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Guest Mc_Reatta

The black line you are talking about is the vacuum line that operates the air diverter valves in the dash to switch from defrost to center to footwell. Make sure it is snugly back in place after the ECM is back in place, as well as the other colored vacuum lines there.

The wires from the CRTC to the CRT are all in the console. I'd start with pulling out the CRT and checking the connections there. Then you can follow them back to the CRTC if you need to.

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Guest Lisa Courtney

I do believe I cracked the boot on the vacuum line not 100% on that cause I can't see behind it. So I think to be safe I should just replace it. Where would I find something like that ? Anyone here know.

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