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64R

Seized trans cooler line

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Have any of you had any success with removing a seized trans line from your rad? One side came off like nothing, the other the nut turns but the line is seized in it. I sprayed it wit Liquid Wrench and WD 40 everyday for the last several to no avail. I know I can cut it and patch with some fuel line but that isn't my first choice, neither is bending up a new line.

Edited by 64R (see edit history)

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Rob-I'd use some propane heat and a flare wrench. I always try first to get a tad of movement in the tightening direction-good luck

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Thanks I'll give it a try before resorting to drastic measures. I did consider that but the problem is the bolt turns easily, it's the line that's seized inside the nut, (well two nuts actually) so I wasn't sure how much that would help? Worth a shot though

Edited by 64R (see edit history)

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Are you using a flare/line wrench? You can apply more force and not strip the head on the fitting.

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Yea those can be a real bugger. Apply heat to the nut as suggested with a torch. Try wrapping a wet rag around the line to keep it as cool as possible when heating. I agree you should try tightening it a bit first because that will squeeze the line tighter against the flare and hold it from spinning maybe just enough to break the bond between the two.

Heat the nut as hot and fast as you can but remember too much heat for too long will melt the solder around the female fitting. Repeatng the process of heat, cool, & penetrating oil a few times should get it to break loose.

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Are you using a flare/line wrench? You can apply more force and not strip the head on the fitting.

I haven't been since the nut turns with ease, that and my largest flare nut wrench is 9/16 and this is 5/8

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I have had some success using a flaring tool to clamp the line as close to the fitting as possible, to prevent the line from twisting when your attempting to turn the fittings to remove the lines. :)

Edited by 68RIVGS
spelling error (see edit history)

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I have had some success using a flaring tool to clamp the line as close to the fitting as possible, to prevent the line from twisting when your attempting to turn the fittings to remove the lines. :)

That's a great idea, clamping the line with a flaring tool, I never thought of that, what did we do before forums? :D That after torching the nut a bit may be the answer.

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Good to know 'mission' accomplished ! Did you use the flaring tool to hold the line, or was it even needed ? :confused:

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Good to know 'mission' accomplished ! Did you use the flaring tool to hold the line, or was it even needed ? :confused:

Nope, didn't need it, the nut turned with ease right from the start so it wasn't a matter of muscle, once I got it hot the seized line broke free and a few seconds later it was out :D

Never underestimate the power of good old BTU`s, aren`t rusty old cars fun?

Yeah no kidding although I can't complain too much about this one too much, other than the one rad line and the exhaust, everything has come apart surprisingly easy. I sprayed the exhaust bolts last night so hopefully that won't be an issue when I get back to it. As you may have figured I won't be visiting you for a bit, time flew by and I had to get on pulling the motor.

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