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Tom_Overfield

Rear Fender Gravel Guards

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Can anyone offer hints on the installation of the gravel guards? This is one of those jobs I could put of forever.

I am thinking some kind of contact cement, nerves of steel and trying to keep the cement off the paint where it should not be.

Thanks

Tom

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I felt the same way the day I cut the hole in my Pontiac hood, to install a

hood tach...

I would wait for the continental guys to chime in....Hey Murph!! I would think

basic 3m trim adhesive "snot" would work..look at lots of pics..

ask Jim Zeffer he has a nikon and a continental..with I am sure original rubbers

get some close ups to be sure.... Hey Jimmy!!

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I dont know if the continentials are different than the Lincolns but mine have studs attached for mounting. But the ones I have are Stainless steel and have been on the car since at least 52 when a family member bought it from the original owner.

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The original guards on my car were rubber that was vulcanized onto aluminum sheets that fit the contour of the fender. These sheets did have the studs and they simply bolted in place. I have the originals and it is sure tempting to try and duplicate at least the backing plate, and glue the rubber to that.

But that is just a thought. If nothing else I will fit them to the fender with carpet tape until I get the to fit properly, then try the contact cement unless someone can suggest something better.

Tom

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Our '48 Connie came with a spare set in the trunk. Nothing but a piece of molded rubber with no visible means of support. I'd try Barge shoe glue, basically heavy duty rubber cement, or contact cement. Our left rear fender has a bit of rust on the bottom front, and the trim molding just fell off. So we'll use the gravel guard eventually. Surely one of us has done this job before.

Abe

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I have a set of rubber gravel guards that I have not put on the car because the installation was going to require drilling holes in the fender. I too was

going to get some direction from someone with prior experience AND success.

Any help out there? Glenn Lorei (b6vt)

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TOM - I have a '41 Continental Cabriolet - As soon as I can I will send you

pics of my rubber guards. I beleive mine were a combination of glue

with some rubber "pull" grommets.

I have to remove the skirt to get pics for you.

You had previously asked about the trunk light wire - my engine and

tranny out both out (along with the battery) so I couldn't answer your

question about the trunklight / headlight switch.

MR LYNCH

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I had to crawl thru my storage bldg. to get these pics.

The fit is FAR from perfect, but you can see the THREE rubber

grommet "pull thru's that hold this on, along with (YES! contact cement)

PLEASE keep in mind that this restoration was done in the EARLY 90's.

LOVE THE BLUE PAINT !!! MINE IS CAPRI BLUE METALLIC

MSSR LYNCH

post-39370-143138287732_thumb.jpg

post-39370-143138287737_thumb.jpg

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Mssr Lynch,

Thanks for taking the trouble to get the photos. I bought a set of the shields with the rubber tips that are supposed to pull through the original mounting holes years ago. Naturally only a few of them actually matched up with the holes and they mount too high above the stainless piece to suit me. I do have another set without the tips, they will just require some careful trimming before they are glued on.

Looks like the best idea is to use a contact cement on the fender and guard, let both dry, then using paper between them, slowly pull the paper out and allow the rubber and fender to bond. This is how formica is applied so it should work, Thanks to John Murphy for the reminder of the paper to keep both pieces apart till they are ready to be bonded together.

I am still open to suggestions.

Thanks everyone

Tom

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Kudos Mr Lynch on the effort..nice pics..very well done..

Isnt it amazing to see / hear the endless pursuit of little detail stuff...just when you

thought you had heard it all...................fun stuff!

Now if we can get Jim Zephyr to photo his..we will be all set...I am pretty sure they have never been off..

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Thanks - IT WAS GREAT TO SEE THAT CAR AGAIN. WHAT AMAZES ME (IF YOU LOOK AT

THE 2ND PHOTO I TOOK) IS THAT THE 20+ YEAR-OLD PAINT STILL HAS THE RELECTION

QUALITY ON THE DOOR PANEL.

THIS IS THE LAST SUMMER I AM SPENDING WITHOUT A RUNNING V12.

I FINALLY FOUND AND BROUGHT HOME A DECENT BLOCK, ONLY TO DISCOVER IT IS

A 1942 BLOCK!!! (ORIGINAL LARGEST BORE)

IT HAS BEEN MAGNAFLUXED - NO CRACKS, BUT THERE IS ONE CYLINDER THAT HAS

SOME DEEP PITTING (LOW IN THE BLOCK) - i DON'T QUITE KNOW WHAT TO DO WITH THAT ! ?

MIKE LYNCH

post-39370-14313828797_thumb.jpg

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Mike,

I don't have the storke of that engine close at hand but if the pits are below the stroke of the piston, I would not worry about it. As long as the rings don't pass over that area you should be good to go, (my thoughts anyway). If you find you want to correct the problem, I am sure a good machine shop can fit a liner in that offending cylinder.

Another possibility would be to check with Egge Machine and see if they offer over size pistons for your V-12. Then the pitted area can be bored back to smooth and you will have 12 nice fitting pistons in the process.

Tom

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Regarding installing the rear fender gravel guards--for almost 5 years they languished in the trunk of my 48 LC . Everytime I looked at them I cringed at the thought of boring holes in that fender to pull those knobs thru and then not have the holes in the right spot. I cut the knobs off. I went to the auto parts store and bought some 3M"SUPER STRENGTH MOLDING TAPE" ITEM No. 03609.

Washed that part of each rear fender down with PREPSOL, as well as the back side of the rubber gravel guard. Applied the molding tape around the perimeter and the center of the of the rubber guard., pulled the protective plastic from the tape, (the hardest part of the process) and applied the gravel guards to the fenders They look great. They appear to be securely attached.-- If they fall off I 'll let you know. It will take three 5' rolls of tape @5.00/roll Glenn Lorei b6vt

Edited by b6vt (see edit history)

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Glen,

Thanks for the hint, I will give that a try first, as it is an automotive tape, it should hold quite well. The secret is cleaning the rubber and fender of any wax or mold release they may have used on the rubber part. Prep Sol is good stuff and I have a gallon on hand so I will grab some tape this week and give it a try.

Tom

Tom

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