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Kitskaboodle

Ever afraid to ask a question cause you know what the answer will be? :(

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This has been asked before but I'm going to ask again:

Is there any way to disable the Reatta Teves system so that it will not think it's in ABS mode? Has anyone tried to disable theirs?

Lastly, I recall that at least one member converted theirs to "normal" Riviera brakes. (forget which year Riviera to get the parts from)

What needs to be done to make this swap work?

Thanks, Kit

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Sure, pull the relay.

As to the second, I think it is mostly a matter of a small diameter brake booster (9" ?). Also since there is only one line going to the back, you may have to either put a plug in one outlet or use an old three port m/c.

If you do decide to do this I could use some spare wheel sensors.

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This has been asked before but I'm going to ask again:

Is there any way to disable the Reatta Teves system so that it will not think it's in ABS mode? Has anyone tried to disable theirs?

Lastly, I recall that at least one member converted theirs to "normal" Riviera brakes. (forget which year Riviera to get the parts from)

What needs to be done to make this swap work?

Thanks, Kit

I wish someone would give a detailed, step by step tutorial on how to do this. With photos would be nice. I would like to put it on ReattaOwner.com to help anyone wanting to do change to standard brakes. As our cars get older it is something we may need to do to keep our cars going.

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The difficulty is not converting (and a Hydroboost might be an answer), have seen at least three, think most use Riviera parts of the same year and plug a port. Fiero unit might fit (also four wheel disks & lots available). Might need a proportioning valve also.

The problem is turning the red and yellow lights off. Might be that you just pull the relay and diode but do not know. Riviera PROM might do the trick.

The "parts" car I just acquired has been converted, next time I am over there, I'll take a look.

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The difficulty is not converting (and a Hydroboost might be an answer), have seen at least three, think most use Riviera parts of the same year and plug a port. Fiero unit might fit (also four wheel disks & lots available). Might need a proportioning valve also.

Interesting that you mention Hydroboost. In the GM truck world, a common conversion is going the other way - replacing a vacuum booster with Hydroboost. (Diesels, of course, require Hydroboost. But even the heavier duty gas trucks have it.) The Teves is already hydroboosted. Main difference is that most Hydroboosts are run off the power steering pump - rather than having an integrated electric pump.

The problem is turning the red and yellow lights off. Might be that you just pull the relay and diode but do not know. Riviera PROM might do the trick.

Or maybe disconnect/bypass the control box in the trunk?

The "parts" car I just acquired has been converted, next time I am over there, I'll take a look.

Are you up to #5???

Kit: Before jumping into the conversion, maybe you could update us on what the brakes are doing? When we talked, it seemed like the main problem was a soft pedal.

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Basically, the ABS light comes on after you get it past 12-15 mph.

It then stays on all the time you're driving. It's been doing this since

I've had the car. In addition, while you're driving down the road you'll

press on the brake and A) get that brake pedal pulsing and B) greatly

reduced brake stopping. (mine is totally unpredicatable as to when it

happens)

Over the years I have replaced the Teves unit, the trunk brain box and

all 4 wheel sensors. (front two are brand new/rears are from a "good"

Reatta in the junkyard) Nothing ever fixed the problem so I kept driving it

until last summer when I noticed the pump continually ran...EVEN WITH THE

IGNITION OFF!!! :(

Anyways, after this I put on another rebuilt Teves unit, bled it and now

A) I have only about 20-30% braking power (must not have bled it properly)

B) dang ABS is still on and a new problem cropped up: C) dash occasionally blacks out but then sometimes comes back. :(

There you have it.......and this is why I no longer drive this car. :(

Walter...in case you're wondering I did have a lengthy phone chat with the

guy who owns the gas station in Cupertino and he basically said not to bother since it can take days for him to find out what the REAL problem is and his shop rate is $110.00 an hour. (I told him after 2-3 days the car would

be his!) :(

Still looking for someone (in my area) who knows how to diagnose this car's

brake system and doesnt charge an arm and a leg for it. :(

(I do have some mechanical/troubleshooting skills but as you can see I havent had much success)

Kit

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The pump staying on sounds like a hung relay.

Comes on over 12 mph and stays on - that soulds like a sensor mismatch. Once the ABS triggers (yellow light on). It will stay disabled until the ignition is turned off. Only time a yellow light will turn off while driving is if it was triggered by low brake pressure.

What ABS codes are set ?

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This has been asked before but I'm going to ask again:

Is there any way to disable the Reatta Teves system so that it will not think it's in ABS mode? Has anyone tried to disable theirs?

Lastly, I recall that at least one member converted theirs to "normal" Riviera brakes. (forget which year Riviera to get the parts from)

What needs to be done to make this swap work?

Thanks, Kit

Disconnect a wheel sensor will disable the ABS. Or fnd a Eldarodo get the brake pedal, mastercylinder, lines, and a flairing tool. The swap is pretty basic.

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Kit, what happens when you swap relays around? (Mark them with masking tape first - so you can keep track of which one is which.) And what codes are set by the EBCM?

Also, I have a spare instrument display you are welcome to try. If you are interested, I can drop it by the store.

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One of my parts cars has been re-fitted with a vacuum-booster style M/C, an '89 White/Burgandy. I'll be out behind the barn today, maybe even down-under, in the spreader stall-where it resides. I'll take some pix, but may not get back to my 'puter 'till Monday.

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Kit, what happens when you swap relays around? (Mark them with masking tape first - so you can keep track of which one is which.) And what codes are set by the EBCM?

Two more questions: Are the tires the same size and have approximately the same amount of wear? Also have you checked the sensor rings in the hubs for missing/bad teeth?

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Sounds like there is more going on that just the relay. Having said that, it is one part he doesn't say anything about replacing. The relay may be a good start point. Once you know it's good, go from there.

Tom T

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