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1931 Ignition Lock Barrel


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Jules:

If you look under the steering lock assy you will see a small hole under the cyl. The factory drove a pin into that hole. To remove the cyl one must drill out the pin. It might be easier to have a locksmith "pick" the lock if it has not died due to age.

The only replacement that I know of does not fit flush on the housing, but rather sits "proud" by about 1/4"

Bill

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  • 6 months later...

Drilling out the pin is not a real difficult task, it just takes a little patience. Jessers will make a key to fit the cylinder. I tapped the hole with the cylinder removed and then installed a stainless steel screw with the head cut off and a screwdriver slot cut into the end. This way I can remove the cylinder in the future with little work.

Bob Engle

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  • 5 years later...

29,30,31 USE A DIFFERENT PIN FROM 32.   Ii DON'T KNOW WHAT THE DIFFERENCE IS?  TAKE A 3 DRILL SET WITH YOU.  THE PIN IS BELOW FLUSH SO YOU CAN SEE WHICH DRILL SIZE WILL FIT INTO THE HOLE. 

THE MASTER PARTS BOOK HAS AN EXPLODED VIEW OF THE "OAKES" PARTS 

 MY  32 WAS DRILLED OUT WITH A #26 DRILL (0.147" DIA) .  AS I RECALL, I TAPPED IT FOR A 10-32 SETSCREW. 

BOB ENGLE

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NO, The key must be inserted and turned, this allows the ignition switch to be turned on which unlocks the steering wheel and also completes the electrical circuit that sends power to the coil.  Then the foot pedal can be used to engage the starter.

 

The foot pedal can be used to engage the starter without the key inserted and turned, but it will not start because there will be no current to the coil.

 

It is possible to put a jumper wire across the electrical contacts on the bottom of the switch and start the engine, but unless the cylinder has been removed and the steering lock pin removed, the steering wheel will not turn.  Removal of the jumper would shut off the engine.

The steering wheel will not lock in all positions, only when the wheel is in the  straight ahead position or a full turn off of this straight ahead position.

 

I am referencing 1932 Buicks, however, I do think the 1931Buicks are the same.

 

Bob Engle

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Be careful with the small pieces.  There is a knurled cap that has a small spring and ball inside and it's best to remove the cover and switch parts on the underside before removing the lock.  Once the lock is out, part 3 can be removed. 

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Edited by Bob Engle (see edit history)
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The Pin goes about 1/4" through the casting and then about 3/16" into the hole in the outer cylinder housing.  When you look at the key slot you csn see the The circular chrome plated housing.  This housing is a straight cylinder and as such you can see outer surface is the bore diameter in the casting.

 

In the attached photos, the parts are in there orientation for assembly.  You can see the set screw I made to lock the cylinder in place without a press fit pin.  

 

Us folks that live out in the country don't have a competent locksmith to do house calls at a reasonable rate. I took mine apart to get the parts plated.  I took the cylinder to Hershey and Jessers cut a key on the spot for me.

 

If you plan to put a press fit pin back in, I would start drilling with a center drill and then start small and work up in drill size and depth.  As I recall, the cylinder housing moved when I was close to breaking though.

 

Bob Engle

 

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  • 1 year later...

I'm trying to get the lock cylinder out of my 31 Model 67 and I think I've got everything covered except how to nudge or withdraw the cylinder once the retaining pin is drilled out. I have an extra column to test procedures on. It's drilled out but I see no way to pull the cylinder. Any clues out there for this step?

Steve Gorthy BCA #44510

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After the pin is removed, try to turn the barrel where the ignition key goes in.  The surface should be about 1/16" above the casting bracket.  Try to wiggle the barrel.  Hopefully it moves.  If it moves, remove the ignition switch on the underside by removing the two flat heads screws.  Remove the chromed  knurled nut and collect the lock washer, spring and detent ball.  Now wiggle and pull the barrel out of the casting. With this removed, you can now pull the lock lever assembly out of the casting.  You can make a tool with a short 90 degree bend on the end and use it in the retaier pin hole to assist in getting it to move out.

 

I have removed 5 of these column assemblies.  Three of them the key barrel slid out with gentle wiggling.  the 4th required soaking for several days with a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF.  Caution, it is flamable and not good for inhaling.  The 5th was a disaster.  The key barrel would not budge.  after many days of fooling with it, I taped the outer edge and put channel locks on it.  Needless to say, the diecast inner piece broke and the key tumbler assemby was junk.

 

I hope this helps

 

Bob Engle

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