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Start/No Start? Need some help!


Guest wayne2reattas

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Guest wayne2reattas

I have a 88 Reatta. Starts and runs fine 99% of the time. A couple weeks ago I was coming home from work and stopped at the store. When I got back in it would crank but wouldn't start. I called a tow truck. After waiting two hours for the tow truck I tried starting it again and it started and ran fine. It happened again last night. Same situation. Drove home from work stopped at store and it wouldn't start. So just let it sit about 45 minutes then it started fine. Both times this happened the outside temp was around 95 degrees.(Don't know if that would have anything to do with it). The garage I go to said they can't check anything when the car is running fine. He said they could only do something at the time the problem occurs! Any help would be appreciated! Thanks...

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Sounds like you just need to drive to the garage and try to restart.

Understand that when hot if you try to start, the engine spins but there is no sputtering or anything, just spins evenly. Cools down and starts fine.

First thing I'd do is swap the ignition module and coils for a spare. If you have a Magnavox, get a Delco. See here.. Classic symptoms.

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Guest Mc_Reatta

Seems to be becoming a fairly common problem especially in this heat.

Check that there aren't any codes set leading elsewhere.

Check fuel pressure if you can to make sure it's not the pump.

Most likely culprits are the Ignition Control Module and the Crankshaft Position Sensor. Unplug the connector to the ICM and look for any gooey leakage from the unit. Sure sign of heat failure.

CPS is harder to troubleshoot without test gear. Believe there is a troubleshooting test in the FSM that uses a test light.

Search this forum for starting problems posts. There are a few where replacing both of these items did not fix the problem, but they are certainly the place to start looking.

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Just saying that if it doesn't have a Delco, it should and even if you do not need a spare now, you will.

Swapping the ignition assembly is a lot easier than the crank sensor and is more often the problem (unless you just replaced the balancer).

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Guest wayne2reattas

Just wanted to say that when I first try to start it doesn't crank just spins. After about 15 minutes engine starts then car shakes badly then dies out. After about an hour or more it starts and runs fine. No codes , no check engine lites. Thanks for the info. Going to check ICM in the morning.

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Guest wayne2reattas

This has only happened two times. Both times that it did happen was when I was close to home after driving home from work. I work 16 miles from my house but it takes me two hours to get home due to sitting in traffic! When I drive a short distance then restart the car it starts fine. If it was the ICM or fuel pump or CPS wouldn't I have this problem all the time?

Also when I am at a complete stop and accelerate very lightly the car hesitates like it is going to stall but doesn't.

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Guest Bobby Valines

The same thing happened to me last summer, it turned out to be the fuel pump. Harbor fright has a fuel pressure gage for $10.00. I would assume a good mechanic would have checked fuel pump and ignition module, coil.

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Fuel and secondary ignition issues do not set codes. A crank sensor rarely does. Mostlikely you have a failing "something" either a sticking fuel pump or a degrading ICM that fails following a hot soak. The fuel pump can be checked just by depressing the schraeder valve on the fuel rail and see if it spurts (use eye protection, do not try in living room, & other weasle words). If fuel pressure is present, the next thing I do is to swap the whole ignition module. The above takes about 10 minutes provided you have a spare ignition module. If not see below.

The last entry in the DOCS section at Reatta.net is an 8MB file on "cranks but does not run". Following it is a bit time consuming but will find the problem. About once a year one of the herd has an ignition. If it goes away following a swap, I troubleshoot the assembly. Green goo is a giveaway.

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Guest wayne2reattas

Just checked fuel pressure it was 36 which should be fine. Checked ICM everything appears fine. No sign of any oozing.

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Guest wayne2reattas

More problems! When I checked the ICM I took the coil pak off. Everything looked good so I put it back together. Now the car will not start. It spins but doesn't crank. Could I have damaged the ICM?

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Guest wayne2reattas

I just switched ICM and Coil pak from my other reatta. It still won't crank. Checked fuel pressure again is about 40.

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Sounds a lot like a crank sensor. Did you follow the checklist in the service manual (what I extracted as "Cranks But Does Not Run") ?

BTW in GMese, if the engine is turning, it is cranking. Once upon a time, long long ago, you used a handle to "crank" the engine. My 55 MGA came with a crank. If fitted on the end of the shaft with the rods and flywheel hence "crankshaft" (also because the rod journals looked like a crank).

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Guest wayne2reattas

Its RUNNING!! I have been following the other post for the black 89 that wouldn't start. So I checked the 15 amp fuses under the hood. The fuse that is closest to the dash was burned out. I replaced it now car starts fine. My question now is what caused the fuse to blow? And was this causing the no start problem I had before when the car would start again after cooling down. I want to thank everyone for all of the help!

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Guest wayne2reattas

The fuse was in tight. Had to use pliers to get it out. I don't know if the fuse that blew was the one for the Computer Controlled Ignition or the one for injectors and fuel pump. I assume it must have been the one for the Computer Controlled ignition since I did have fuel pressure each time I checked. Once again thanks to everyone for all the quick help!!

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Guest Stan Leslie

A blown fuse would not repair itself when cooled. I seem to remember that some GM? cars used an oil pressure circuit as a redundant feed for the fuel pump. If the fuel pump fuse was blown the oil pressure circuit would feed the fuel pump as long as you had oil pressure. It could be that the cranking motor could not build adequate oil pressure when the oil was hot, but could if the oil cooled a bit. Just a thought. Did you figure out what the fuse was for that was blown?

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Guest wayne2reattas

I have not been able to figure out what the blown fuse was for. Have been looking through the service manual but can't find a diagram for the relay center under the hood.

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Guest wayne2reattas

I have a 88 manual. I am looking now but my pages go from 5-15 to 10-1. Under section(8A). There are no page 6's. Does it tell you which 15 amp fuse is the closest to to firewall?

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