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I NEED ADVICE fast.....


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OK guys...I really need advice fast....now that I changed EVERYTHING,including new fuel rail, injectors, fuel pressure regulator, including a new throttle body with IAS and TPS, the tc still acts up after 5 minutes of driving...so it could only be WHAT>???????????? the fuel pump???

then why does it only appear if the engine is heated up a little?? could it be something else???

there are pumps on ebay for 65 bucks but it says they are for a 91 tc...

does not make sense since they would fit the gas tank ( its the exact same gas tank for all years...) are the fittings different?

would I have to drop the tank or can I just leave it on while switching the pump?

please help!.

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Not a high probability but have you checked the wiring for continuity while the car is warmed up? A wire may have a break inside the insulation that only comes apart when warmed up.

The problems you are having remind me of why I parted out my 89 before throwing too many parts at it. I also had to think about the fact that my car had been previously damaged in the rear (and the brakes went bad while it was sitting) which lowered my desire to spend a lot repairing it. I probably would have kept trying to repair it if not for that damage. Have you tried taking the car to Hemi's shop for diagnosis? If your car is nice then adding a few hundred for professional eyeballing onto what you have already spent would be a wise choice.

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thanks david!..did not try talking to hemi ...checked grounds...all good...and changed hep sensor too...what really is interesting is the fact that it starts perfectly, runs great for 5 to 10 minutes...and then the rpm's start to dance and the engine cuts out..does not die yet ,keeps running...but the idling is very rough....when stepping on the gas its a little better...I still believe its the fuel pump...everything else is exchanged...

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update...exchanged fuel pump successfully with a brand new one.again - everything else was exchanged too!...except for the o2 sensor and the EGR valve...

PROBLEM persists! can someone hand me a box of matches?? because I dont know what to do anymore

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Shelby, my husband suggested it could be a coil, or you may want to check the HEP hall effect processor, as Bill Reichert posted yesterday. We did that first, thinking it was the problem. Maybe it works too in backwards order... :)

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Check voltage at the fuel pump shutoff relay at the IN side when the car is first started and then again when it starts giving problems. The computer will not let the car run well if the voltage drops below 12.5 if I remember correctly. If there is a voltage change at that side then I would start checking wiring at the fusible links and go from there all the way to the fuel pump. Also check if the ignition switch is getting hot which would show resistance and could affect voltage.

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Sure sounds like an O2 sensor problem. You've described the symptoms exactly.

The engine computer is in Open Loop mode for the first few minutes of operation. Open Loop mode runs the engine with the O2 sensor ignored. After the engine temp goes up the computer switches to Closed Loop and the O2 sensor is the used to regulate fuel delivery. All other factors and sensors remain unaffected.

In Open Loop the engine is run in a rich condition, in Closed Loop with a bad sensor it will go to very lean and run horribly. This would also explain the consistency in the timing of the problem recurring.

I might add that getting the O2 sensor out can be quite a chore but I'll bet just about anything that this is your problem. I know as I had exactly the same problem with my 89. I had damaged one of the sensor's wires when replacing the head gasket. The damage was internal to the sensor when one of the wires got pulled too hard and came loose in the sensor itself.

Edited by george w (see edit history)
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When you changed the HEP in the distributor did you check the plate that it mounts to for looseness? Some of these are held on by plastic pins that can break or come loose which allows a wobble while turning. That wobble is detrimental to the running of the engine, and the sanity of the driver.

Take a month or two break from working on the car but keep reading from Mopar sources about common problems with the turbo cars. Something will set off the lightbulb in your head.

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david....weeks!!!!! of throwing parts, weeks of no codes, putting in fuel pump and o2 sensor, replacing everything...and now this...fixed the metal plate wobbling with superglue...sticks to the plastic now ...and the car just runs fine...holy *(@(#*$....

that was the cheapest fix ever...thank you and everybody on this forum for input!!

at least I fixed it... ( well...if it still has no issues after testdriving it for 20 minutes, I assume, its going to be allright...)

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Hope that is a stable fix, I never had to redo one with bad plastic pins. The earlier 2.2 distributors had metal pins but I don't know about interchanges with the later engines, maybe someone else can chime in on that. Even when you get a rebuilt dizzy the plate is sometimes loose because they didn't check it.

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If you are interested in contacting Hemi, his number is 805-216-9257. His 40 years in the field has given him a good understanding of Chrysler products and he is near you if you can dive over to Ventura area----TC JOHN

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