BCM

[Guest 89ln3]

So i had my teeves system replaced by a dealer. Everything works fine then all of the sudden the damn ABS light starts coming on again. Take it back they said its the rear passenger side wheel speed sensor. They replaced it and reset the system to clear the codes. the light doesnt go away. now they say i need a new ebcm because the current one isnt working with the wheel speed sensor. Problem is they want $1100 for the ebcm. So my question is does the ebcm control the ABS and is a ebcm the same as a bcm which i can get for $130 from A-1 cardone. Also how realistic is for a DIY person to put it in?

[DAVES89]

It is one of the easiest jobs a DIY selfer can do. It is in the trunk on the drivers side. If it takes longer then 5 minutes to swap out its because you are distracted by something else.

The wiring harness "snaps" in place and the EBCM is held in place by I believe three nuts. No special tools, no climbing in the trunk or contortioning to get at anything.

Jim Finn should have a good working used one, give him a try...

But I would check out the relay on the fire wall first. There are three there, swap them first.

[Guest mongeonman]

If you go the a dealer to get your car fixed,its 90% sure you will have to go back,the reson is:they want your money....its even worse when they see you comming in in a Reatta....

[padgett]

Also I have sound some of the Teves codes listed in the manual may be rong. If the light stays on all of the time the first question is "do you feel the "thump" in the brake pedal shortly after turning the key to "run" or shortly after starting the car ?

If not, it is probably the relay. If you feel it then it is probably a sensor but possibly not the one indicated. You need to measure the sensor connections at the EBCM (in trunk) connector. Good sensor will be 800-1200 ohms.

The most common problem if there is a thump is a sensor lead with a cracked and frayed insulation that has shorted, usually a front one. The only real way to test is to measure the sensor resistances.

I have yet to see a failed EBCM (always a first time) but also have repaired any number of error codes (including one for an inlet valve) just by replacing a faulty sensor, and it has never been one pointed to by the codes.

[Guest 89ln3]

There is a thump when i turn the car over with my foot on the pedal. i need to go out and buy a multimeter to test the resistance.

[Rawja]

Speaking from experience, never EVER go to the Buick dealer for Teves work. Get an EBCM from Jim Finn. Likely not what's broken, but at least you'll find it out inexpensively.

[DAVES89]

I'm curious on a few things;

1] Where did they get a rear wheel sensor? I thought they were discontinued.

2] Did you check the relays? That is also an easy fix. Buy a new one and swap it out.

3] Take a look at all the wheel sensors. If the leads are frayed as Padgett said, that will probably be the one to replace. The front ones wear faster due to turning, but the back ones go as well.

[padgett]

When you have a DVM ($2.99 at HF), the diagram below shows the connector. This is found in section 5E1 of the FSM. Sensors should read between 800 and 1400 ohms.

My experience is that if you get the thump and the brakes work, it is usually a sensor (but the code may not match). No thump, a relay.

Thump is good, that means everything is getting exercised at startup.

Black car was giving a 26, 32, and 76 (inlet valve and right front wheel sensor). Rang it out and the left front wheel sensor (pin 5 and 23) showed open. Replaced that sensor and all the codes went away. Did find a badly worn spot.

Now this is dredging memory but I seem to remember that when I opened the other front wheel sensor, I got a 33 which the code table says is a rear wheel.

Anyone care to just open all four sensor connectors, one at a time, and see what codes set and which go away (think 3x is history and 7x is current) ? There are a lot of nuances to those codes I just have not found out.

[Guest 89ln3]

yea so i tested all of the sensors got the right readings for everything but the front right wheel speed sensor it had came back with no reading at all

[Jim]

Thanks all for the recommendations on the parts. I agree the EBCMs rarely go bad but the wheel sensors do.

I have EBCMs and I also have good sensors. The EBCMs are pretty cheap but if you can find a new sensor I recommend getting a new one. The reason is, mine are good but because they are so hard for me to get out of the knuckles without damaging them, I have to charge the same price as I have heard you can get new ones for. About $ 75, but like Dave says rumors are that they are not available anymore and rumors are that they are still available. ???????

[padgett]

That is common and I'll bet if you take the wheel off and examine the sensor cable carefully you will find an area with the braid exposed.

If here we could just attach a new sensor and see if the problem goes away. Did you ever pull the codes ? Would be interesting to know what it is (would put my money on a 33)

It is possble just a 1k ohm resistor could simulate the sensor as a check (yellow light should go off as long as car is not moving) but I have never tried that.

The front sensor is a BWD ABS600 or Duralast SU9787 or GM 1648453 or 3521271 (have not verifiesd the last)

Autozone page says they have the SU9787 for $142. Pep Boyz ABS600 $182 this is getting silly. Few months ago a pair of ABS600s were $93 ea (and come from Japan). $75 for a nice front with good rubber sounds like a deal.

BTW have now coated all of the sensor cables on one car with liquid rubber and plan to do same to others.

Edited July 5, 2010 by padgett (see edit history)

[Guest 89ln3]

Ok quick question are the front abs speed sensors the same as the rears? because all i can find is the rears. Rockauto and autozone.

Also here all of the codes i am pulling

E013

E048

B448

B552

B660

C553

for whatever reason i dont have the link to the codes anymore so if someone would be kind and post it.

Thanks again for the help

[Ronnie]

I don't think the front and rear sensors are the same. They have different part numbers.

NAPA Part number Front: 530067 - Price: $ 139.69 as of 6-2-2010.

NAPA Part number Rear: UP 530079 - Price: $ 98.69 as of 6-2-2010.

PartsAmerical.com: Part number Rear: ABS530079. - Price: $ 59.99 as of 5/28/08.

You can find the codes here:

ABS Diagnostic Codes*-*ReattaOwner.com

BCM & CRT Diagnostic Codes*-*ReattaOwner.com

ECM Diagnostic Codes*-*ReattaOwner.com

Edited July 8, 2010 by Ronnie (see edit history)

[padgett]

Those are the ECM/BCM/CRT codes. We need the two digit EBCM codes. You will need to jumper the ALDL connector (by the parking brake) A to H (89 & 90) and count the flashes of the yellow ABS light. See pages 5E1-7,8,&9 in the 89 FSM "Displaying EBCM trouble codes"

Note the entire FSM may be downloaded from http://reatta.net/docs/

Front sensors have the mounting hole at a 90 degree angle to the cable. Rears are inline.

[Ronnie]

Those are the ECM/BCM/CRT codes. We need the two digit EBCM codes. You will need to jumper the ALDL connector (by the parking brake) A to H (89 & 90) and count the flashes of the yellow ABS light. See pages 5E1-7,8,&9 in the 89 FSM "Displaying EBCM trouble codes"

Note the entire FSM may be downloaded from http://reatta.net/docs/

Front sensors have the mounting hole at a 90 degree angle to the cable. Rears are inline.

Read my post again.

ABS codes: ABS Diagnostic Codes*-*ReattaOwner.com

[padgett]

Ronnie:

a) we were typing at the same time

thought he might need to know HOW to pull the EBCM codes

c) will bet he gets a code 33 and it will be the right front wheel speed sensor. The code list is less than biblical

We really need to find another sensor that will fit. The only failures I see is in the three foot attached cable. Over $100 is silly for a hall effect sensor.

ps NAPA Part number Front: 530067 Rear: 530079 are sourced from Raybestos. Borg Warner Division is the other source BWD ABS600 front and I do not have a p/n for the rear.

Edited July 8, 2010 by padgett (see edit history)

[Guest 89ln3]

Ok a jumper as described in the FSM is just a wire or what exactly is that

[DAVES89]

Use a paper clip

[padgett]

Paper clip will work, or just a piece of wire.

[Ronnie]

Piece of wire will work, or just a paper clip.

[Guest 89ln3]

Ok this really makes me mad about a dealership. So I checked the abs error codes. I got a 32 and 76. all right front wheel speed sensor codes but the dealer is telling be its the rear. Thank you everyone for the help its more than appreciated!!!

[padgett]

Let us know if it is the right on your car. On my 88, 32/76 was the driver's side sensor.

[Guest 89ln3]

The first link is my driver side wss cable and the second one is the passenger side.

Edited July 10, 2010 by 89ln3 (see edit history)

[padgett]

Both have most of the rubber sheath missing & look terrible. Driver's side looks worse but pass side looks like it has been partially wrapped with insulating tape. Dealer did not say anything ? Going to have to reach through the hood opening into the inner fenderwell, disconnect the connector, and measure the resistance. My bet is on the driver's side being bad.

Edited July 10, 2010 by padgett (see edit history)

[Guest 89ln3]

I pulled off both connectors and the right front again was the one reading nothing the driver side was right within specs. I went to NAPA and the guy said the 530067 where for 90s plus so will this part still work on my 1989?

[padgett]

88-90 They are all the same. Are they available ? How about the 530079 ? I am ok for fronts but have no spare rear.

[harry yarnell]

What kind of price?

[Guest 89ln3]

the price was 140.00. they had both the fronts and rears but you have to ask for a 90 reatta not a 88 or 89 bc they said they dont carry those years any more. its also a 3 day shipping period if not in stock.

[padgett]

Interesting, rear used to be about 3/4 the price of a front.

[Guest 89ln3]

ok replaced the front right wheel speed sensor today pulled the negative battery cable to replace the sensor and also reset the ebcm by displaying all of the codes then driving over 18mph. the light turned off then about 30 seconds later came back on. i drove one the highway for 15 minutes never went off. Turned the car off the light doesnt come on again till about 30 seconds after starting. The codes i got were 32, 42, and 76 all the right front wheel speed sensor. I checked the resistance at all of the connectors rf 1161 ohms, lf 1190, rr 1130 lr 1156. At the ebcm connector the rf 1190 lf 1209 the rears were almost exactly the same.

[padgett]

The resistances look good but sounds like you have an intermittant. Was the sensor you replaced open ?

I saw that before when I had a sensor that failed when I hit a bump and the cable flexed & would have a 36 & 76 when checked. Never saw a 32, 42, or 56.

Once on, the yellow light stays on until the ignition is turned off. For a while I could clear mine when it came on by cycling the key long enough to reset but short enough that the engine did not stop turning.

Four years ago I went throught the whole nine yards with an intermittant 36/76 that turned out to be the driver's side. In the course of that I checked the clearance on all four sensors (is supposed to be .020", cleaned the toothed rings dor dirt/grease/debris, and made sure the rings did not have excessive runout (bad wheel bearing can cause)

This was when I found the code was indicating the wrong side. Finally traced to a bad cable.

Now, as you have noticed, each sensor has four codes associated with it: 32, 36, 42, 56, 76

If you look at these in binary, the relation jumps out:

32 0101 0010

36 0101 0110

42 0100 0010

56 0101 0110

76 0111 0110

I *suspect* there is indication of open/short, current/history, constant intermittant, internal/external but have never spent the day to find out. When I tried to contact Continental/Teves who should know, I never got an answer. I did determine that the driver's side (left ?) when open gave a 36 and and the passenger side a 33 but never when further or checked another car until recently when the black car gave a 32 and again was the driver's side.

Have put it down as something else that needs a round tuit.