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padgett

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I have a daily driver (well, all of my cars are "daily drivers" if I feel like it, ain't coffee tables) that needs paint.

Like most of mine it is white. Several people advised that a particular MAACO was run by a guy who did good work and the $2k price for a TOL basecoat/clear coat seemed reasonable with an extra $325 prep included to remove the crazed original paint and $320 for some small body work..

What I question and have not gotten a good answer for was the extra $177 for "materials and supply". Got two quotes, one for a lesser package but the M&S was the same. Thought I was being given a package price. Is this normal ? (Sent an e-mail to Maaco but they have not replied, Google finds a few references but no answers.)

Opinions appreciated, like I said local people had advised this shop does good work and had seen examples that looked nice (but what I miss seeing is legendary).

ps does anyone know how much of a difference there is between a 1990 code 40 WA8554 "white" and a 1999 code 10 WA9567 "Arctic White" ?

Edited by padgett (see edit history)
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Guest steveskyhawk

Find a place that does "soda blast" and have it stripped first. They use baking soda instead of sand to take off the paint without damage. Plastic fenders cant be done this method. I was charged $600 to do this to my black coupe and it was well worth it. Body men tend to bury their problems. It will reduce the cost of the prep work and come out much better.

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Guest re-reatta

I was quoted a price for soda blasting of from $800 to $1100. Guess I better shop around some more. Anybody in the area between Philadelphia and Harrisburg PA have any suggestions???

Thanks,

Kevin

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Guest mongeonman

For the price i think it is much to high,i had my reatta done 4 years ago ,they took the car apart and back together ,for 3500.00canadian,and it was a very nice job,it stayed at the body shop for 7 weeks.About the color,a had the hood of my 90 painted this spring and even if they had the code they could not get the exact color,they said code 40 wa8554 has 3 different shades and it is very hard to match exactly(i went to different place to try to get the paint and they all said the samr thing)what the did is scan the paint,it ended up as "cotillon white",i can see the difference but not bad at all.

Edited by mongeonman (see edit history)
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Guest Richard D

Padgett, Come on down to Miami for four or five days and have the shop that painted mine paint yours. It is an independant shop, they painted my T-Bird about 10 years ago and I recently talked to the man who bought it from me and he says the blue metallic still shines. And that was not their best paint job, including minor body work it came to $550.00 with a four year warranty against fading, peeling, etc. On my Reatta they had to take it to metal/factory primer because someone had tried to paint the horizontal surfaces with the wrong primer. This job came to $850.00 with a five year warranty. It looks great and black is not easy, however reflections in the hood of flouresent light tubes look like a mirror and not distorted or bent.

Richard

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Found the answer, was part of $500 extra prep including taking crazed/porous poor repaint down to metal/plastic then three coat base followed by three coats clear urethane. Prep and paint is coming to $1600 with five year warrenty. Local close automotive friend I trust implicitly recommended highly.

Not my field, can miss seeing even significant paint defects.

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Guest steveskyhawk

Padgett,

We tried the soda blast on a spare broken fender to see if it came clean and smooth but it came out rough which would have made more work for the body shop. They did everything but the fenders. They did the hood, trunk, sunroof and headlight doors off the car. If you really want a good job the old paint must come off.

Semi naked reatta

post-53748-143138226545_thumb.jpg

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  • 6 months later...
Guest ReattaFan1
Found the answer, was part of $500 extra prep including taking crazed/porous poor repaint down to metal/plastic then three coat base followed by three coats clear urethane. Prep and paint is coming to $1600 with five year warrenty. Local close automotive friend I trust implicitly recommended highly.

Not my field, can miss seeing even significant paint defects.

Did you ever get the car painted? How did it turn out? About 10 yrs back regrettably I had a car painted here in Orlando by Econo Auto Body. It sucked so bad that I shortly got rid of the car. Im funny about the paint on a car. I'd much rather keep the original paint but here in sunny Florida it's hard to find used car that still has decent paint. It was like the equivalent to Maaco $249 "Ambassador" package. All they did was tape the trim, scuff up the old paint and slap on a coat or two of color. I had it painted a dark metallic hunter green and it showed all the flaws. First off the finish had tearable orange peal and from a side angle you could see deep swirl marks from the sanding prep work. It was thick overspray on the radiator and condenser and it was a bad masking job on the windows and body trim. I will never go back to Econo. It had been 10 yrs back but I guess you get what you pay for. Im not sure if Maaco would be much better. Has anyone ever found a decent paint shop at Maaco's prices?

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There is a possible alternative to paint if you have a decent finish. There were several vendors at SEMA this year hyping their "body wraps" this is the same process as used on buses, delivery trucks, etc to advertise the company. What they are now pitching is color changes, flames, two-tone, etc

Most of the advertising body wraps I have seen are not shiny but one company put a clear gloss finish over the color sheet. The material is similar to window tint in that it can be heated and streached around cruves and into body creases.

There were several cars there sponsored by the History Channel.... all done in bright yellow, a Rolls, Porsche, Ferrari, etc and they were taking people rides around the convention center.... after the show, they peel the wrap off and the car is back to new.

The picture below of two new Rolls coupes with a two-tone paint job. Note the graphics in the paint. Also I suspect they did not wrap it into the rear bumper to same money and time as it would be removed after the show There were probably several other that were so well done that you did not now they were body wrap.

This process would work well for a car that you wanted to do a custom paint job and maybe remove it in 3-4 years. The selling point is there is no body work needed, and you can put the car back to stock. Many local car dealers here have vans they use to shuttle customers and they have the wrap.....which they remove and sell the van.

At this time, I don't think this is a DIY project and probably cost $1000 to do a normal size car in one color (without graphics) Meguires (now owned by 3M) had a booth selling a system.

post-30596-143138380455_thumb.jpg

Edited by Barney Eaton (see edit history)
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I wouldn't let anyone but MAACO paint any car. they've painted over 20 cars for me in the past few years and do a superb job.

with that being said, here are VERY IMPORTANT things to remember:

-if you're going for the $249 "mooch special", don't expect miracles.

-if you have damage (door dings, dents, rust, clearcoat issues) and don't want to pay to have it repaired, don't blame the shop. if you do the body work yourself and the paint comes out badly, don't blame the shop.

-if you're too cheap to spend the extra $150 to have the paint color-sanded after it is painted, don't blame the shop.

after a car is painted, the job is only half-done. color-sanding is what takes a "lousy" paint job, and makes it spectacular. all of the flaws like orange peel are removed, and the finish is PROFESSIONALLY buffed at least five times with finer and finer polishes.

if you make the decision to skip paying the one hundred fifty bucks for the professional color sanding, and "you're going to do it yourself", prepare for disaster. color sanding is not achieved using a $30 buffer with a tie-on pad, and two different compounds you bought at PepBoys or Autozone. many of the compounds necessary for an excellent job are over $75 a bottle...and remember, you'll be using at least five different products. using the wrong sandpaper, or doing it incorrectly will also result in disaster.

I've had fifteen customers' Reattas painted at MAACO, with the average cost for JUST THE PAINT job (this does NOT include body work, prep work, or color sanding) at $893. this is for their premium paint package, which includes Sherwin Williams paint, and two coats of clear. one of the cars they did we then sold at Barrett-Jackson a few weeks later back in 2003 (it was the red convertible).

when you're ready, head for a few different MAACOs in your area. look at the cars that were just painted. be sure to ask which received the premium paint service and have been color-sanded. you'll be quite impressed. paint is paint (as long as it's not cheap synthetic enamel). you'll be shocked at how many late model cars are in there. they also do a ton of insurance work. if their work was lousy, they wouldn't have insurance jobs.

when you're ready, give the shop a little help. take off all of the moldings (and the clips); if they're color keyed, take off the stainless trim and emblems, and let the moldings get painted separately when they do the car. take off the rear Reatta emblem, and remove the back-up lights and license lamps. when you get there, take the tail lamp assembly out. remove (CAREFULLY) the hood badge. remove the headlight bezels, and mask off the headlights. tape off the VIN numbers on the fenders with BLUE masking tape. do the same for the stickers inside the door jamb. remove the trunk seal.

"wraps" are not cheap. when we inquired about having our trucks wrapped last year, the cost was around $3,000 apiece. the wrap only lasts about three years before it needs to be removed.

Mike Rukavina

buickreattaparts.com

Edited by reattadudes (see edit history)
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Guest ReattaFan1

Thanks Mike for taking the time to explain what all goes into getting nice results. I had no idea all that work went into the prep and final finishing. Now all that being said it seems well worth to pay the extra. I did allot of prep work on the prior car. I was just disapointed with seeing the prep scuffing through the finish plus the over spray was a bit overkill. Ill be sure to check with Maaco and ask to see some of their finished work. I hear polyurethane is to paint of choice. The last car I had painted I pulled all the moldings and emblems. On my Reatta I have the black molding trim all around the doors and bumper. I see some Reattas have painted moldings the same color as the car. It looks pretty nice, but I also like the black. That would be my only other deciding factor.

Edited by ReattaFan1 (see edit history)
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... On my Reatta I have the black trim all around the doors and bumper. I see some Reattas have that painted the color of the car and it looks pretty nice. But the black seems nice too. That would be my only other deciding factor.

It was a no-cost factory option to have the side moldings either black or body colored. So you will see them both ways.

Mike: You mention Sherman Williams paint. For an authentic restoration, why wouldn't you specify PPG? (I note that the web site for our local MAACO advertises that they use PPG. Though no mention of which 'level' of PPG.)

Also, considering the massive clear coat problems that many 80s/90s cars have had, who has the best clear coat?

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