1927 chevy

[Guest gilman]

I replaced my cam lifters and push rods in my 1927 chevy my lifters where they come through the engine block are all leaking oil. They are leaking more than just a little bit it is quite a bit. more than I can hanle leaves oil drips where ever i park it is there anything I can do to remedy this problem.

Also I am new to this forum Im trying to post a question and I hope I am doing it right

[rsb]

Welcome. You must have done it right because I was able to see it

Unless your lifters are excessively loose in their bores, I think you will find some amount of leakage normal. I haven't seen a Chevy-4 engine yet that doesn't "mark it's spot" with a few drips of oil. Did this just start happening after the new lifters were installed or was it happening before? If the leakage is excessive (puddles), you might have a problem elsewhere. Excessive oiling of the cylinder head and rocker arm felt will cause drips, improper seal on timing gear cover where oil settles will tend to drip. Loose front and rear main bearings will allow oil to escape around the crank (more rapidly than usual).

Most engine rebuilders tend to set the bearings too loose on the Chevy 4.

Regards.

[Guest gilman]

Thanks I have no leaks any where else except from the lifters I bought all new lifters as I replaced my cam I know the old ones leaked a bit but not as much as the new ones. Im wondering if I should reintall the old lifters as they seemed to be in good condition. I only replaced them so my new cam would have new lifters so they would be an even match

Thank You for your response Brian

[rsb]

I would remove a couple of the leaker lifters and mic the O.D. Compare that measurement to the originals. Obviously if the originals are a thou or two bigger, that would account for the leakage. I suppose you could get away with using the originals if the radius end is up to spec. From what I have seen, the lifters usually check out. It's the camshaft lobes that wear like a saddle.

[Guest gilman]

rsb Thank you You have solved my problem took the tappets to a friends he mied them the old tappets where .005 bigger than the new ones, so I am using the old ones no more leaks.

[Guest gilman]

So I aquired a 1927 chevy truck it is all original I had to put in a new cam and timing gear along with various other things. It is now running.

my problem is when I put the truck in reverse about a half to a querter cup of oil spits out of it from some where I mostly notice this if I am on a slight grade backing up hill.

I also think it may be coming from the Timing gear cover. The crank shaft goes through the cover there is not a seal but there is about a sixtenth inch gap all around the shaft opening for the fan pully. any info on this would be great thanks

[R W Burgess]

Let's keep this 27 Chevy in the same forum, Gilman.

Thanks,

Wayne

[rsb]

there is about a sixtenth inch gap all around the shaft opening for the fan pully.

There should be a felt washer about 1/8" thick between the cover and fan pulley. It doesn't really help much other than to deflect splash from the gears. On most engines, it's long gone.

[Guest gilman]

ok So after rebuilding the motor new crank shaft, camshaft timing gear and variouse other parts I geuse the oil is coming from the front of the oil pan gasket. I was very careful as to do this correct but I should have put the curved gaskets in front and back on the engine first so as to get a better seal. So back off with the oil pan and this time I hope I get it on with NO leaks. Thanks for the info guys.

PS Burgess sorry for posting in the wrong area I am pretty new at this and I was happy that I figured out how to get a post up. I'm sure it wont be my only mistake but feel free to tell me what I do wrong Cheers

[Tim W]

I have just bought a 1927 Chevy truck. 

Is there a place to buy cab parts or other things ?

 

Thanks for the add

Tim W

North Alabama

 

[Dave39MD]

Tim W, I would post your part needs in the wanted section here and on the Vintage Chevrolet site here https://vccachat.org/

 

Dave

[Leif in Calif]

On 9/1/2022 at 7:25 PM, Tim W said:

I have just bought a 1927 Chevy truck. 

Is there a place to buy cab parts or other things ?

 

Thanks for the add

Tim W

North Alabama

 

I agree on the Vintage Chevy site, but don't think Chevrolet actually started building their own truck bodies until about 1930. Be for that they came from outside firms like Martin & Perry. 

[Tim W]

Where do I find a vin or serial number for my bill of sale?? Or what do they use that year?? 

[Tim W]

I have always been a Chevy fan for the 60's and 70's, but the 20's throw me a curve. 

I question if my truck being a 1927 or a 1928.  One thing that i noticed is it

looks like my pushrods are external.  Is that common to a certain model engine?

Also manuals show a oil fill tube.  I do not have one.  What the heck ?

Is there a place to see engine photos?  You guys are  GREAT.

 

 

[Vintageben]

2 hours ago, Tim W said:

I have always been a Chevy fan for the 60's and 70's, but the 20's throw me a curve. 

I question if my truck being a 1927 or a 1928.  One thing that i noticed is it

looks like my pushrods are external.  Is that common to a certain model engine?

Also manuals show a oil fill tube.  I do not have one.  What the heck ?

Is there a place to see engine photos?  You guys are  GREAT.

 

 

So just a quick note is pre 28 has exposed push rods but in 1928 they enclosed push rodS, also two exhaust ports and added front wheel brakes. Here are a couple of pics of a 26 engine.

Cheers Ben

Edited September 21, 2022 by Vintageben
Add photos (see edit history)

[Vintageben]

Here are a couple of photos of a 28 engine that I stole of the net

[Tim W]

You guys are great... Mine has a very short oil fill tube. . But i am sure from what you are telling me that it is a 1927.  Mine does not have brakes on the front and only one exhaust port. I noticed i do not have an air filter and i dont think i have an oil filter.

[Tim W]

I noticed on the 26 (a RH drive) there is an air filter with a tube around the engine to the carb.

I do not have that filter or tube.

 

I noticed on the 28 a copper tube coming out of the carb up to maybe a fuel filter.  

Where is the gas tank ?  Mine has been modified and is in the rear, in front of the bumper.

 

A lot of work to do.  Thank you for the help. 

 

[Tim W]

I guess i should post a picture of my 27.

I found it just like this in a mans front yard. 

I almost peed my pants. There is no way he would sell it.

He said he drove it up in the yard and it had been sitting there a year.

He made me a price and sold I a Buick Roadmaster. 

Then raided my rat hole money.

[Vintageben]

Nice it certainly looks like a 27 to me. Yeah 27 And 28 models should have an oil filter but A lot of them were bypassed over the years. The photos of the 26 are of one of my 26’s and yes RHD as I’m in Australia. 
the air filter is like a Jam tin with Louvres cut in it and sucks air into the hot Box around the exhaust then on to the carbie. Not sure if your truck was originally a truck or if it was converted as most of the trucks I know had the fuel tank under the seat but the cars were under the rear chassis cross member.

[Tim W]

A friend of mine says they swapped cars to trucks because they were rationing gas in the USA. 

Trucks were allowed more gas. 

[Vintageben]

3 hours ago, Tim W said:

A friend of mine says they swapped cars to trucks because they were rationing gas in the USA. 

Trucks were allowed more gas. 

Yeah much the same happened here. 

[Tim W]

I cleaned points and got it to fire off last night, so looking good.  

I have to make a paper gasket ring for the bottom of the carb bowl.

It is leaking and i have to fix that before i can run it.

 

I did find a number behind the distributor and it has E 16 7 so i assume

it is May 16th 1927. And the number  846709.

 

I also noticed  that there is linkage sticking out the bottom of the steering 

column but the rest going to the distributor is missing.  Can anybody post

me a photo of the column end and how it connects to the distributor ??

Not sure it will run without that.  I don't now what to look for or make. Thanks.

[Tim W]

This morning i looked while i was actually awake and it is the throttle

linkage missing at the steering wheel end. Not the dist advance. Good grief. 

I also noticed this morning that someone installed a modern plastic case

accelerator  cable. Everytime i go  out there, i find something else.  I am not

an  "original" nut but as close as it is, i sure would like to keep it close to original. 

[chistech]

I’m surprised no one has suggested to you to keep the rocker arms well oiled nor has any explained what you think is a fuel filter on the firewall. Your engine does not have an upper oiling system for the rockers and rocker shaft. The head is actually a basin for oil and there should be a felt pad under your rocker cover that gets soaked with oil after every drive through oiling holes in the top of the rocker cover. It IS very important to keep this area in oil. Your motor will have oil running down its sides and dripping on the floor but it is the nature of the beast. 
      What you believe to be a fuel filter is actually a Stewart vacuum fuel pump. Manifold vacuum draws fuel from the tank into the pumps canister until the fuel level causes a float to rise shutting off the fuel from the tank and manifold vac. The carburetor is gravity fed from the pumps reservoir. There is no rear main seals on these motors and climbing a hill will often cause the oil to come out of the rear main area. Both the front and rear of the crank uses slingers to force the oil back into the pan but they can be overcome by severe angles. 
      A part air filter is the can mounted on exhaust and is connected to the carburetor by the flex pipe running around the back of the motor. Those motors are extremely prone to icing the intake manifold up so you require a constant flow of warm air to prevent that. You will need to have the whole assembly in place to have a reliable running motor.

[Tim W]

Thanks. I guess everybody is busy.  I read your reply and it has taken me a while to get back to you.  I have been looking at photos and articles that i learned alot of what you are talking about.  Mine does not have the vacuum fuel pump but i want to put one on or a replica of it. I need a photo of how it mounts.  Somebody put an electric fuel pump on it, which is great but i want to hide it.  The air tube and exhaust canister is gone, so i want to fix that back too. I want it to look as original as possible. Somebody posted that you have to squirt oil in the holes on the valve cover?  Is that correct?  If so how much.   Thanks for the advice. 

[Mark Gregush]

Unless you are a member you can't post photos but Vintage Chevrolet Club of America has a good site along with a Facebook page. 

Vintage Chevrolet Club of America (vcca.org)

https://www.facebook.com/groups/50230437832/

[Tim W]

On the 1927 Chevy truck ...i have started  replacing the cab wood. 

Trying to line up the doors. This is a picture of the passengers door 

that i have not taken off. 

ONE- Is the door supposed to stick out past the front cowl panel  or lay flush with it ? 

TWO - What about on the rear at the latch? Flush, out or overlap ?

       The one  i have not taken off is on shaky posts. 

THREE - What about the amount of gap between

      the door and the latch plate?  Thanks for your help so far. 

 

[chistech]

Hi Tim, 
if the door edge is flanged I assume it would lay on top but I’m not familiar with that year much. As was suggested, join the VCCA and get in touch with Dean who owns a truck he calls lurch. He is a truck guru and could most likely answer any questions you throw at him. If you’re looking for originality then the VCCA forums are the place to go. There are many extremely knowledgeable members on there 5hat specialize on different things.

[Tim W]

I am a member and will try to find him. Thank you

 

[Tim W]

Can you buy an engine rebuilt kit for a 1927 engine ?  And if so where ?

I finally got an adaptor and checked my compression. 53, 42, 0, and 0.  Not good.

Make be a head gasket but number 2 is low too.  I am the goober that if i have to work

on it, i am taking it out and going all the way through it.   I really want to stay original. 

Thanks

 

[redbaron1930]

did you try (www.20schevyparts.com)?.............He has a tremendous amount of stuff for 20"s and early 30's.

[DFeeney]

If you do most of the Labor yourself  you should be able to do a quality rebuild just paying for parts and machine work. Slow and Easy is always best.

[chistech]

Okay, I’m editing this because I went back and realized you have a 27 with single exhaust port head. Many of these heads were replaced because they cracked and that is possibly your issue. The 27 used cast iron pistons and not the aluminum which I mentioned later in this post. If you are going to rebuild your 27 block I would recommend getting a 28 head and exhaust manifold. It’s a way better setup and you can drive it without fear of cracking the head.
      Maybe you just have a case of stuck rings. Are you sure all valves are opening/closing? To have “0” compression is pretty rare. A 27 engine, rebuilt with 28 pistons and head is a nice running motor when they’re right. You won’t be sorry for staying with it for originality.

Edited December 31, 2022 by chistech (see edit history)

[Tim W]

Thanks Chistech ... I have not gotten the engine out but i have started,

I really really want to stay as close to original as possible.  I found all the parts  separately 

except  for lifters. Of course the mains bearings they say are poured babbit.  Some say 

you can bore out to use inserts.  Not sure about this.  I will look for a 28 head or a whole 28 engine.

Any help or advice is great.  Thanks again.

 

[arcticbuicks]

serial number......i have a 28 with a different cab[as most were not factory] and a 28 roadster.......the serial number are just thin strip of tin with light stamped numbers,about 1/2 inch wide and 3 inch long.......and just nailed with two small nails on passenger side ,inside door wood post on the car ,and passenger side below seat on truck,i heard other guys say they just nailed them in the lower passenger area somewhere .....very easily lost with rotted wood over time

[Tim W]

I just last week took the hood off and noticed a ID plate under the hood hinge area. 

 

Somebody used one of the bolts to mount a voltage resistor block.  I have not 

 

taken it off yet  but i will try to this afternoon.  Thank you.