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kram

1940 lincoln continental convertible

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Good day all, Or not such a good day, started the lincoln today and was running very rough. Performed normal inspection fuel, ignition, compression. Test proved no compression in last cylinder on right bank. cylinder leak test proved faulty intake valve leaking into manifold. Any sugestions or common concerns on where too start. Pull cylinder head or intake or just park and wait till next year.

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If it were mine, I would pull the head and take a look at the problem. Turn the engine over and see what valve is sticking open then determine why. I am thinking it could be nothing more than carbon on the stem preventing the valve from closing, though if it is an intake, maybe not. Possibly a piece of carbon on the seat of valve face preventing a full closure. In any event, you will need to pull the head, then the intake if you want to go further and take it out.

If the engine has not been apart for awhile, it may be a good time to give Earle Brown a call and throw in a conversion kit for the intake valves. It comes with rubber stem seals and will stop the faint blue smoke so common. You can also put a kit in for the exhaust while it is apart should you so desire.

If you only fix the offending valve, I would for sure take them all out and lap them into the seats.

All I know for sure is it has to be awful to be bent over trying to work on it in the car.

My back is aching just thinking about it.

Tom

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You can see the valves through the spark plug hole. If you are sure of the cylinder, take a look and rotate the crankshaft so the intake valve is fully open and give it a squirt of MMO or Kroil. Let it soak for a while and then crank the engine over with the starter for a few seconds, put the plug in and warm it up and recheck the compression. If that doesn't improve it then follow Tom's suggestion.

Norm

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i had the same thing on a Hupmobile. pulled the head and the valve had stuck open.

i just tapped it down and sprayed it down with wd-40 before the tapping.

turned engine, it stuck again. so i repeated the same over and over about six

times, then the valve started going down when engine cranked.

so i sprayed head gasket with alum paint put back on.

works perfect now

gene

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Good morning all, thank you to all who responded to my post. Yes indeed in fact carbon buildup on the underside of the valve, we tried carbon clean with our motor vac machine but same concern. I removed cylinder head to get a better look ( WOW THAT WAS FUN) , now that Iam in there and the vehicle did blow blue smoke how much of a project to replace the valves and seals with new to cut down on smoke. There are no other issuses so as long as I am this far would like to improve something. Keep in mind engine still in car.

Thanks so much Mark

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It can be done, butttt...if it has not been apart in a while a mf. Replace the valves, guides and keepers..use flathead v-8 valves..available from your local jobber, with solid guides, with

rubber seals...I went a step furthur and machine the ends of the guides, installed modern

teflon gm valve seals....Drove 400 miles yesterday, used 1 notch from full on oil dip..I am pleased. I believe the mist from the lifter galley gets sucked into combustion chambers through guides...... The horseshoe keepers are the issue..replace the faulty one..if "easy " carry on..if not, wait and pull engine for more complete ..you will see!!

Edited by Mssr. Bwatoe (see edit history)

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Good Morning Mark,

You will have to pull the intake to get at the horseshoe clips that hold the valve assembly in.

Once that clip is out, you pry the assembly out of the block. If you have the Ocee Rich Lincoln book it shows how it is done. Any Ford flat head book will show the same. Like I said earlier, you can replace just the intakes or both, your choice, but I would think that by replacing the intakes, you will elminate most of your blue smoke issue.

I would at the minumum lap in the new intake valves and I would also stuff a piece of rag down around the valve stem area to prevent that grit from roaming around.

It can be done with the engine in the car, but I doubt my back could take much more than an hour or so at a time to be bend in half like that. I did see an ad for a thing to work on large pickup type vehicles, it was an adjustible table type fixture that you could lay on while reaching down into the engine bay.

Tom

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Good afternoon all, Thanks so much for all your help, the valves seem to be sealing very well just waiting for heads to come back from machine shop. cleaned everything up poured fluid in intake chamber and no leaks. We will continue with reassembly on Monday. I also think that I will sell this car after this repair is completed and I know everything is ok. I love the car but really don't have the time right now to make it fit with work and family.

Edited by kram (see edit history)

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Hey Kram -- I understand; but get it running nice first before you've decide ;). I've had moments in my garage, when I've been in the middle of a tough repair, where I would have sold them to the first person to come in and haul 'em away. But once you're done, you've cleaned up, and you take it for that first post-repair spin, you'll feel different. Being able to work on and enjoy an old car is a badge of honor; not many folks can do it.

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I second what Boz said. I also would have sold my car to the first person that walked through the door, but I am glad I didnt now that it is almost completed.

Hang in there, better days are coming, warmer too I hope soon.

Tom

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Been there, Done that! The for sale sign is is still laying on the floor in the back seat.

Once I got it running smoothly, all thoughts of selling went out of my mind!!!!!!!! Or is it, I'm finally out of my mind? Whichever, I sure do enjoy the option to roll down the windows, open the cowl vent and drive the back roads on a warm day!:rolleyes:

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Good afternoon all, First of all want to thank everyone for your suppport on the car. I will get it running again and take it from there, but would be very helpful if anyone has cylinder head torque specification and bolt pattern. Keep in mind cast iron heads, all information would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance, Mark

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Know of no published or Ford recomended tightening sequence for the Zephyr 12. The torque specified is 40 to 50 ft/lbs. for cast iron heads. I start in the middle and work both diections ( fore and aft, top and bottom) alternately and tighten in 10 ft/lb inrements after initially "snugging" the head nuts. Most flat head engines are done in a similar manner.

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For what it's worth, this is from the National Service Data Manual, 1936-1949. See the lower left corner of the page. Don't know why they couldn't put numbers on the head bolts.

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GET IT HOT, DO IT AGAIN...Maybe my error, studs not bottomed?? gasket compress?? I found

significant need for retorque...I say it is a must..iron heads are very forgiving..cranks em down..start in cener ..work out...

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Good afternoon, Thanks again for all the info, right side cylinder head on and compression is restored which is great news. I will continue with repairs once I receive my intake manifold gasket. Which brings me too my next question intake manifold torque specification.

Thanks in advance Mark.

P.S. will try and post some pictures of repair as we go along.

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I had my intake sealing surface trued by my machine shop. It looked like huge belt sander

I will never take a scotch pad power wheel to clean again...70 years of gouges and dips cleaned up nice..I was amazed..

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Thanks again to everyone for all the information, today was a better day fired up lincoln and she runs wonderful again. I will post some pictures here soon still need to replace fuel pump, hose to fuel pump, shift knob and rear axle shift cable. Then we should be good too go.

Thanks again everyone Mark

P.S. Tom hope the lincoln comes home soon good luck!!

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Great news that you got it fixed and running. Now you can spend the summer weekends cruising.

I am waiting for the call to come get my car any day now. I cannot wait!!

Tom

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